21v finally in the water!

[mdk681]

Hey guys,

I recently took deliverey on my new (to me) '99 21v Riders Edition. The boat has only 266 hours on it so it is in very good shape for a '99. We tested everything out and the only thing that was not working correctly was the TAPS. They are sending a tech out to look at that today to cover it under warranty from the sale. Heres a pic of it on the lift...



Anyways, I has a couple questions about the boat and would apprecate any input from the experts here on the board. The batterey is located in a compartment on the port side, behind the storage locker. I was looking at the batterey box that was in there, and noticed a 2 wire cable that was hanging down not connected to anything. The cable appeared to be molded into the fiberglass (makes me think it was from the factory) above where the batterey sits. Any idea what this is for? I attached a picture.



Secondly, do any of you run 2 batteries in this model of boat? I would like to add a second so I could isolate one while parked to listen to music and not risk draining my starting batterey. How do most people configure this setup? Right now everything is connected to one batterey through 2 main heavy gauge leads. Any input would be apprecaiated. Thanks!

[Wakeman22]

Congrats on your new purchase and your first time out on the water. You will love your Tige.

When the tech comes out today ask him what the wires are. He may know. Your pics did not come up.

Most of us all have a two bettery system. chpthril on this site will probably chime in later and introduce himself. He has a welth of information and is the electrical, stereo and ballast go to guy.

Enjoy your new boat.

[Fiveflat]

I have a '99 21V. I have that wire but can't remember where it goes. Send me a PM tonight to remind me to look. I know it's there though...


I also added a second battery and installed it up under the observer seat where I installed my amps. Do a search for my name and it'll all come up.

[rucks22]

Congrats on the new Tige and welcome to the Tige family. I too just bought my first Tige a couple weeks ago and have found this forum to be one of the best. Cheers

[skippabcool]

Congrats on your new boat. Have fun using it!

[NICKYPOO]

Congrats on the boat. You'll love it.

Most everybody runs two batteries. I just picked up two new ones yesterday. You'll want one dedicated cranking battery and at least one deep cycle house battery. The house battery is to run all of the accessories, (mostly the stereo). Dollar for dollar, you still can't beat a good 'ol lead acid battery. After much research, I bought two new Interstate batteries; one 27M-XHD for cranking and one SRM-29 for the house. Together, they are less than $300.

The Taps is about the easiest system in the world to work on. Let us know if the tech fixes it. If not, we can tell you what to do.

Not sure about the wires though. Sorry. Did you hook them up and see it they did anything. It would be funny if they were for the Taps pump. Highly unlikely but, it is a hand built boat.

Welcome to the forum and if you have any inkling of doubt about anything, just ask. We love to show off how smart we are.

You need to fix those pics for sure. We thrive on pics.

[OldeBoy]

The first two pictures aren't coming through on my computer. Can you track where these wires are going? Do either of these wires run up to the port side of locker, through the pvc used to route wires, turns starboard and runs along between the seat and the v drive locker, then down and into the mass of wires in the wiring harness starboard of the V-drive?
On my boat a wire following this pathway was supposed to be the hot wire running to the float switch on the auto bilge. A previous owner had labelled it as negative thus my blige never functioned automatically. However, that would only account for one of the wires you show dangling there.

Are there any in-line fuses on either of these wires?

[OldeBoy]

On your dual battery question. I added a deep cycle in the starboard rear section to mirror the port picture you have shown.
I used this from BlueSea: (Add a Battery 7650)
http://bluesea.com/category/1/productline/overview/329

[laserfish]

I put in two batteries last year. Just had Chpthril put the package together for me. He was excellent at making me a diagram and answering all my questions. You just need to decide where you want to put everything and Mikes Liquid Audio can make it happen

[mdk681]

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

The tech was able to get the TAPS system working - apparently the pump was just low on fluid. I took it for a spin yesterday and tested it out and everything appears to be good to go.

I stopped by my local marine parts store and bought some stuff to wire up my second batterey. The guy there was able to explain everything to me and confirm how I was going to set everything up. I am gonna work on that project tomorrow.

Another thing for you stereo experts - I just installed a Alpine deck in the boat a couple days ago. I am running the 4 boat speakers off the head unit power, and everything sounds great. I plan on adding a pair of wetsounds tower speakers, and was wondering how to set it up. I have heard that a lot of people run the in boat speakers off of one pre amp outout (i.e. front) and the tower speakers off the other (rear) so the tower speakers can be turned off by using the front and rear fade on the deck. Is this what most of you have done?

If I were to want to continue to run the in boat speakers off of the deck power, is it possible to somehow have an amp hooked up for the tower speakers and be able to control which are on and off?

[chpthril]

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

The tech was able to get the TAPS system working - apparently the pump was just low on fluid. I took it for a spin yesterday and tested it out and everything appears to be good to go.

I stopped by my local marine parts store and bought some stuff to wire up my second batterey. The guy there was able to explain everything to me and confirm how I was going to set everything up. I am gonna work on that project tomorrow.

Another thing for you stereo experts - I just installed a Alpine deck in the boat a couple days ago. I am running the 4 boat speakers off the head unit power, and everything sounds great. I plan on adding a pair of wetsounds tower speakers, and was wondering how to set it up. I have heard that a lot of people run the in boat speakers off of one pre amp outout (i.e. front) and the tower speakers off the other (rear) so the tower speakers can be turned off by using the front and rear fade on the deck. Is this what most of you have done?

If I were to want to continue to run the in boat speakers off of the deck power, is it possible to somehow have an amp hooked up for the tower speakers and be able to control which are on and off?

To answer the stereo questions. In order to have the ability to use the head-units fade to go between the in-boat speakers and tower speaker, you will need to install an amp for the in-boats.

[mdk681]

To answer the stereo questions. In order to have the ability to use the head-units fade to go between the in-boat speakers and tower speaker, you will need to install an amp for the in-boats.

Would it be possible just to install a basic toggle switch in-line on the remote wire to the amp to simply turn it on or off?

Also, I just installed a second battery and wanted to double check that everything was done correctly. I purchased this selector switch Switch - I also purchased 6 gauge marine grade cable to wire everything up. I went from battery 1 & 2 positive to the 1 & 2 spots on the selector switch. I wired the main red heavy gauge wire from the motor to the 3rd (or common) pole on the switch. I hooked the black heavy gauge wire from the motor up to battery 1 negative, and then tied battery 1 & 2's negatives together. Does this sound like the correct configuration to allow charging of both batteries? I haven't started her up yet, but all of the electronics seem to function as they should.

Will the 6 gauge and that particular switch handle what I am running? I have no aftermarket electronics except a new head unit - besides that everything is stock.

[chpthril]

Would it be possible just to install a basic toggle switch in-line on the remote wire to the amp to simply turn it on or off?

Also, I just installed a second battery and wanted to double check that everything was done correctly. I purchased this selector switch Switch - I also purchased 6 gauge marine grade cable to wire everything up. I went from battery 1 & 2 positive to the 1 & 2 spots on the selector switch. I wired the main red heavy gauge wire from the motor to the 3rd (or common) pole on the switch. I hooked the black heavy gauge wire from the motor up to battery 1 negative, and then tied battery 1 & 2's negatives together. Does this sound like the correct configuration to allow charging of both batteries? I haven't started her up yet, but all of the electronics seem to function as they should.

Will the 6 gauge and that particular switch handle what I am running? I have no aftermarket electronics except a new head unit - besides that everything is stock.

A toggle switch in line on the amp's remote turn-on would allow you to turn on and off the amp running the tower speakers, BUT, if you want to play the tower speakers at volume, the in-boats will be at the same head-unit volume. And if I understand the orignal question, this is what you wanted to avoid.

It sounds like your dual-bank system is wired correctly. The load should draw from which ever battery you have the switch turned to and the alternator will charge which ever battery the switch is tirned to.

For receiving a charge from the alternator, 6ga is fine. For supporting the current draw of stating the engine, which could exceede 200A, 6ga seems a bit light.

[mdk681]

A toggle switch in line on the amp's remote turn-on would allow you to turn on and off the amp running the tower speakers, BUT, if you want to play the tower speakers at volume, the in-boats will be at the same head-unit volume. And if I understand the orignal question, this is what you wanted to avoid.

It sounds like your dual-bank system is wired correctly. The load should draw from which ever battery you have the switch turned to and the alternator will charge which ever battery the switch is tirned to.

For receiving a charge from the alternator, 6ga is fine. For supporting the current draw of stating the engine, which could exceede 200A, 6ga seems a bit light.

Do you think that it would be smart to go down to 4 or even 2 gauge? I could pretty easily re-do it this week. Also do you think that the particular disconnect I got will handle everything well? The gentleman at the marine store I went to seemed to think it would be OK but I always like a second opinion

[chpthril]

Do you think that it would be smart to go down to 4 or even 2 gauge? I could pretty easily re-do it this week. Also do you think that the particular disconnect I got will handle everything well? The gentleman at the marine store I went to seemed to think it would be OK but I always like a second opinion

The switch you have is fine. Whats the distance from the batteries to the switch, and from battery 1 to battery 2?