So I have found a decent deal on a floating wedge. I would provide about 800 pounds of downforce and I think it would really improve my wave. Do you think the transom is strong enough? I could re-enforce it to the stringers. I know people install switchblades with no issues on non centurion brands or older centurions and I know the transom on my 24v is pretty darn thick. My idea is to remove the quick pin system and notch out my taps plate so I can use both. Then the arms will have holes in it that I can just use a simple pin in on a cord. That way when I travel long distances I can leave it up and it would still clear the taps ram. Larry from FAE has a new wedge design that will clear the floating wedge as well. Anyone see an issue with my idea?
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Floating wedge on a tige 24v- Transom strength?
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The transom being strong enough would be the least of my concerns. Getting the angle of attack would be my fist concern. That 800# would rely solely on the correct AOA. Obviously. If you think you got a handle on that and your only concern is the strength of transom, I'd say your good to go.
Another question. The taps plate. How is it going to perform all notched out like that? With what you're showing for notches, I would think you would get a ton of flex on the outer sections. You might have to beef them up somehow.You'll get your chance, smart guy.
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Originally posted by NICKYPOO View PostThe transom being strong enough would be the least of my concerns. Getting the angle of attack would be my fist concern. That 800# would rely solely on the correct AOA. Obviously. If you think you got a handle on that and your only concern is the strength of transom, I'd say your good to go.
Another question. The taps plate. How is it going to perform all notched out like that? With what you're showing for notches, I would think you would get a ton of flex on the outer sections. You might have to beef them up somehow.
I think I will have to re-enforce the taps plate somehow. The stainless is super thick though. I have a stainless guru friend who I will leave that project to.
Standoff?Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v
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Na, the face of the wave is made by the sides and the transom v. The taps should be fine. Worse case scenario is it doesn't work and I have to fill 4 holes and buy a new wakeplate which isn't bad. I don't know why it wouldn't work. Convex hull and a wedge should work amazingBuild thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v
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I dont know if its the way to go, our most advanced rider customers in either wakeboard or surf have us remove the wedge, they say it hurts wake quality.
As to trim plate you will need a complete redisign , surface area, and the jets of water shooting up into the platform, there isnt enough strength in the hindge area when you cut the slits.
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Originally posted by dom w. forte View PostI dont know if its the way to go, our most advanced rider customers in either wakeboard or surf have us remove the wedge, they say it hurts wake quality.
As to trim plate you will need a complete redisign , surface area, and the jets of water shooting up into the platform, there isnt enough strength in the hindge area when you cut the slits.
I am not a fan of surf tabs since the do cause list, but they also bring he nose down. I prefer to bring the nose down with speed or bow weight. I just use taps to clean the wave.Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v
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