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Floating wedge on a tige 24v- Transom strength?

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    Floating wedge on a tige 24v- Transom strength?

    So I have found a decent deal on a floating wedge. I would provide about 800 pounds of downforce and I think it would really improve my wave. Do you think the transom is strong enough? I could re-enforce it to the stringers. I know people install switchblades with no issues on non centurion brands or older centurions and I know the transom on my 24v is pretty darn thick. My idea is to remove the quick pin system and notch out my taps plate so I can use both. Then the arms will have holes in it that I can just use a simple pin in on a cord. That way when I travel long distances I can leave it up and it would still clear the taps ram. Larry from FAE has a new wedge design that will clear the floating wedge as well. Anyone see an issue with my idea?
    Attached Files
    Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

    #2
    Wow Duffy! You take customizing to the extreme. I have no clue about this, but did you decide to go ahead and remove the chines on your boat as well?

    Comment


      #3
      Chines are for sure gone. Everything points to them cleaning the wave. Mods make me happy, almost as much as surfing
      Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

      Comment


        #4
        The transom being strong enough would be the least of my concerns. Getting the angle of attack would be my fist concern. That 800# would rely solely on the correct AOA. Obviously. If you think you got a handle on that and your only concern is the strength of transom, I'd say your good to go.

        Another question. The taps plate. How is it going to perform all notched out like that? With what you're showing for notches, I would think you would get a ton of flex on the outer sections. You might have to beef them up somehow.
        You'll get your chance, smart guy.

        Comment


          #5
          What about building a standoff for the wedge?
          You'll get your chance, smart guy.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by NICKYPOO View Post
            The transom being strong enough would be the least of my concerns. Getting the angle of attack would be my fist concern. That 800# would rely solely on the correct AOA. Obviously. If you think you got a handle on that and your only concern is the strength of transom, I'd say your good to go.



            Another question. The taps plate. How is it going to perform all notched out like that? With what you're showing for notches, I would think you would get a ton of flex on the outer sections. You might have to beef them up somehow.
            The floating wedge automatically "floats" to the most angle of attack. It has no settings. Basically you move forward and the foil starts to pull down and then maxes itself out. Pretty slick design.

            I think I will have to re-enforce the taps plate somehow. The stainless is super thick though. I have a stainless guru friend who I will leave that project to.

            Standoff?
            Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

            Comment


              #7
              Oh, I get it. That is slick.

              Do you think the split plan will have any effect on the wake face?
              You'll get your chance, smart guy.

              Comment


                #8
                Standoff- Basically a big shim or a spacer. In this case it would go in-between the wedge and the transom in order to "push" the wedge out away from the transom.
                You'll get your chance, smart guy.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Na, the face of the wave is made by the sides and the transom v. The taps should be fine. Worse case scenario is it doesn't work and I have to fill 4 holes and buy a new wakeplate which isn't bad. I don't know why it wouldn't work. Convex hull and a wedge should work amazing
                  Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                  Comment


                    #10
                    what about adding surf tabs, along with the wedge, the TAPS, and the ballast. That would probably make an insine wave.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Surf tabs like mastercraft and sanger?
                      Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I dont know if its the way to go, our most advanced rider customers in either wakeboard or surf have us remove the wedge, they say it hurts wake quality.
                        As to trim plate you will need a complete redisign , surface area, and the jets of water shooting up into the platform, there isnt enough strength in the hindge area when you cut the slits.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by duffymahoney View Post
                          Surf tabs like mastercraft and sanger?
                          I have considered surf tabs myself. I liked the idea when shopping for the boat. There are after market ones sold as trim tabs for larger boats.
                          Wake Up or Stay On Shore!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
                            I dont know if its the way to go, our most advanced rider customers in either wakeboard or surf have us remove the wedge, they say it hurts wake quality.
                            As to trim plate you will need a complete redisign , surface area, and the jets of water shooting up into the platform, there isnt enough strength in the hindge area when you cut the slits.
                            I have been reading up a lot about malibu and talking to a lot of their owners who have sacked their boats out for surfing. Most of the good waves run full wedge. The best option is the power wedge but I can't run that and the taps plate. I can easily re-enforce the plate. That will be easy. From talking to owners it's not really a wave size thing but a push thing. The wave gets more push. My main goal would be to have the best wave out. Again mods are fun for me and building extreme surf boats is sort of a hobby.

                            I am not a fan of surf tabs since the do cause list, but they also bring he nose down. I prefer to bring the nose down with speed or bow weight. I just use taps to clean the wave.
                            Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I am by no means a marine engineer or anything. Maybe just put a 10 inch wide plate on and keep my stock plate? That would be easy.
                              Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                              Comment

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