I had thought about the center support which might be the best way to to. I want this thing to be rigid mounted so that it cant rattle around or come loose is why I am going to stay with my grab pieces vs the hooks. Just like my boat I want this thing to look and perform as trick as possible. Thanks for the input. I know cost is not cheap but just the aluminum and stainless steel fasteners is expensive.
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Don't forget to use some type of isolating plastic washer to seperate the steel and aluminum to prevent corrosion between the two.2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SESComment
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I am using a stainless steel washer, not sure but I would not think the stainless steel would corrode if touching anodized aluminum?Comment
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RPM - where is the hull stress occurring? Looking at my pics in the attached link, you think my 2 added bolts (tow ring) and reinforcement are enough?Originally posted by Kimber View PostComment
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Anodizing really just thickens the oxide layer that naturally forms on aluminum. Since stainless and aluminum are definitely subject to galvanic corrosion, I would think anodizing might "slow" but would not "prevent" galvanic corrosion. I'd try to separate them with something nonconductive, use nylon/delrin washers, etc.Originally posted by GUY_RPM View PostComment
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KemberOriginally posted by Kimber View Post
I think yours will be ok with the added bolts and beefed up hull. I am making some minor changes and will post pictures soon.Comment
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Here are pictures, sorry for the delay posting these.IMG_0570.jpg
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IMG_0574.jpgComment
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Pics look great. Can't wait to see it with SeaDek. Still very interested. Cost will determine whether I buy or not.Comment
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Step looks great, I like the finished product. Looks really clean. Would bare aluminum be an option? I think that I'd like that with red SeaDeck on it.. but like the others, cost will determine. But am very interested! Thanks for the great idea!!Comment
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Nice work for a Kentuckian.Comment
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Just keepin it real in the bluegrass state. You are very close to where I boat often and store my boat in Henderson. Thanks for all your comments. The only color I am going to offer the Seadek in is grey because that color will go with any boat. The only problem with raw aluminum with no coating is everytime you touch it you will get grey chalky crap on your hands that you will be dragging in your boat.Originally posted by ajholt7 View PostComment
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I drive through Henderson everyday. I guess you boat on the Ohio. Do you use Hayes boat ramp?Originally posted by GUY_RPM View PostComment
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I was thinking of Shark Hide to protect the aluminum. It is a great protectant, and lasts for years!Comment
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No, when I go out in Henderson I put in at the city ramp. If the step interest you just let me know and you can stop by and check it out on the boat. I am working on a center support that hopefully will be complete next week then all that will be left to do is get it anodized, you will see it was powdercoated in the pictures but I am not happy with the powdercoating and intend to remove it. My boat is stored in the area of town out by Gibbs Die Casting.Originally posted by ajholt7 View PostComment
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[QUOTE=Kimber;561108]I would actually prefer to have it as is - with no finish. See the link below showing my grab handle with tow ring. I have a guy that has powdercoated my handle (and many other things on the boat), and I would like the step to match.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...t=14246&page=2
Kimber
After looking at your pictures I would like to know what the white board is that was used to beef up your hull? I was thinking of using a material called UHMW, it is a hard plastic but not so hard that it would not form to whatever it was pulled into. I would also like to know what the purple stuff is that is oozing out from behind the board(between the board and the fiberglass), is it like liquid nails or is it a silicone?Comment
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