Need help removing factory prop...

[talltigeguy]

When I had to take my factory prop off of my 2005, I had to hit the bow end of the C-clamp with a hammer. I figured that is the way your were supposed to do it, since it would not come off for me any other way. I would say plan on bringing the hammer back about a foot or so and a nice smooth stroke will get her done. Sorry I did not see this thread sooner to offer that tidbit.

In fact, I bent the C-clamp tightening it too much.

I tried the harmonic after that, and it failed.

Then some genius (chpthrl?) told me that if you put a bit of marine grease on the shaft, it comes off a lot easier. Never had a problem after that. Not sure if I missed anyone giving that advice above, but I think it is extremely helpful.

[IDBoating]

I would say plan on bringing the hammer back about a foot or so and a nice smooth stroke will get her done. Sorry I did not see this thread sooner to offer that tidbit.

Great, thanks for the personal experience!

Then some genius (chpthrl?) told me that if you put a bit of marine grease on the shaft, it comes off a lot easier. Never had a problem after that. Not sure if I missed anyone giving that advice above, but I think it is extremely helpful.

I've wondered about marine grease, or antiseize, but until you said this I've never heard nor read of anyone ever doing that. I presumed there was some reason it was a bad idea, though I can't imagine what it might be. I guess a liberal dose of red Loctite is a bad idea, right? {grin}

[IDBoating]

SUCCESS!

I finally got the 537 prop off today, using Acme's recommendation. It took working all four positions around the prop, too. It didn't feel like anything was happening at 0 degrees, 90 degrees, 180 degrees... then at 270, the fourth position, a light tap with a hammer on the C-clamp and the prop just scooted off to the nut. No bang, no loud noises. I presume working around the four corners loosened things up enough that there wasn't much resistance left at the last one.

The new 1235 went on smoothly. The existing key fit the new prop perfectly. I used the new castle nut that came in the "Weekend Saver Kit", tightened to 30-35 ft-lbs per spec, and a stainless cotter pin obtained locally. A thin layer of marine-rated grease will hopefully make removal easier if there is a next time. All appears to be well. Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions and encouragement!

BTW, why do they call it a "castle" nut? It looks more like a traditional nylock, or stop, nut to me. Castle nuts have notches around their tops through which a retaining pin slides so the nut cannot turn, like this:



Here, the cotter pin would prevent the nut from being lost but it definitely doesn't prevent the nut from turning. Did they used to use true castle nuts and stop for some reason?

[mls6722]

I finally got the 537 prop off today, using Acme's recommendation. It took working all four positions around the prop, too. It didn't feel like anything was happening at 0 degrees, 90 degrees, 180 degrees... then at 270, the fourth position, a light tap with a hammer on the C-clamp and the prop just scooted off to the nut. No bang, no loud noises. I presume working around the four corners loosened things up enough that there wasn't much resistance left at the last one.

The new 1235 went on smoothly. The existing key fit the new prop perfectly. I used the new castle nut that came in the "Weekend Saver Kit", tightened to 30-35 ft-lbs per spec, and a stainless cotter pin obtained locally. A thin layer of marine-rated grease will hopefully make removal easier if there is a next time. All appears to be well. Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions and encouragement!

BTW, why do they call it a "castle" nut? It looks more like a traditional nylock, or stop, nut to me. Castle nuts have notches around their tops through which a retaining pin slides so the nut cannot turn, like this:



Here, the cotter pin would prevent the nut from being lost but it definitely doesn't prevent the nut from turning. Did they used to use true castle nuts and stop for some reason?

Should never need to change the prop again, unless you maybe put the boat in the water some time.

[IDBoating]

Should never need to change the prop again, unless you maybe put the boat in the water some time.

Getting closer every day! In the last three days all seven pumps went in, all hose installed, all wiring harnesses built and installed, front sac installed. Just today I got the UPS tracking numbers from Fly High for the custom rear fat sacs, they should arrive Wednesday. It's been a very long springtime project but the end is in sight!

[bigdaddy_houseboater]

Getting closer every day! In the last three days all seven pumps went in, all hose installed, all wiring harnesses built and installed, front sac installed. Just today I got the UPS tracking numbers from Fly High for the custom rear fat sacs, they should arrive Wednesday. It's been a very long springtime project but the end is in sight!

Spring is over.. it's 105 here today.

[IDBoating]

Spring is over.. it's 105 here today.

Braggart!

Meanwhile, the Pacific Northwest has had a record-setting cold spring. We had the latest day on record to hit 70F, the latest day on record to hit 80F (just two days ago), and today it will be in the 60's again. The water temperature at our lake is about 60F and hasn't moved in two weeks (it should be at least 10F warmer by now). So while I'd love to have been running the 24Ve, it hasn't exactly been all that inviting to actually be IN the water.

I'm not sure about global warming, but just like "wealth redistribution" I think our warmth has been redistributed to other parts of the country. Please return our warmth ASAP!

[bigdaddy_houseboater]

Im just glad that shiits over, WA... I was gettin tired with all the whackin goin on....

[SPBFAN]

Sorry for the late reply. I am sure you have the new one on by now. You should use a little 800 or 1000 grit wet-dry sand paper and clean up the mounting surface on the shaft before you stick it back on if it was that hard to get off. Then like Talltigeguy said put some marine grease or antisize also works good that is what I use.

[IDBoating]

Sorry for the late reply. I am sure you have the new one on by now. You should use a little 800 or 1000 grit wet-dry sand paper and clean up the mounting surface on the shaft before you stick it back on if it was that hard to get off. Then like Talltigeguy said put some marine grease or antisize also works good that is what I use.

Thanks! I didn't clean up the shaft because it looked and felt perfect. The key did too. I did use a bit of marine grease.

Interestingly, the key that was on the boat had a little peg that fit into a hole in the channel; the key from Acme was just the standard square cross-section with no peg. I reused the existing key, and the prop seated perfectly.

[talltigeguy]

I am glad I read this thread.

I just put the 1235 on my boat. The old 537 would not come off, even with my pounding on the bow end of the C-clamp. I ended up rotating it as WA suggested, and when I got to the third spot the prop popped off. Definitely a tip to remember for those hard to remove props.

BTW...other brands that have a splined shaft never have this problem, the prop just comes right off. (MC is the only one I know of that uses a splined shaft).

[IDBoating]

Glad it helped someone else! That's the benefit of documenting our experiences. I've learned a lot here so far and it's nice to give back.

I agree about splined shafts. They're very common on lots of other devices. I wonder why they're not popular on inboards...?