Need help removing factory prop...

[IDBoating]

I'm trying to install my Acme 1235 prop. First step is removing the stock Acme 537. I have Acme's prop puller and it's installed. Following instructions, I back off the castle nut 1/2 inch, then install the puller on the shaft, then tighten "snugly", then tap the puller bolt head with a mallet. Lather, rinse, repeat until the prop pops free.

Except that it won't. I have repeated the above sequence until the puller bolt is so tight I cannot tighten it any further with a 15 inch wrench. I've banged with increasing force on the bolt head until I'm afraid to hit it any harder. I've tried a hammer, too (gently), on the theory that "ringing" the prop may help free it. I've tried using the mallet directly on the prop hub too.

I'm afraid to tighten the bolt further. Yet the prop has not moved. What is my next step? How hard do I dare hit the puller?

[shawn74]

Try some hot water ,thermal expansion

[lohe]

Use a rubber dead blow mallet and hit the back of the prop. And don't be scared to give it a good wack like we say around the shop. Put your purse down

[IDBoating]

I've beat on it with a normal rubber mallet, but I'll try the dead blow tomorrow. I just wasn't sure it was safe to do so (there's an expensive v-drive on the other end of that prop shaft).

Thanks!

[IDBoating]

Try some hot water ,thermal expansion

I've read that some people heat the prop hub gently with a torch, based on the same theory of differential thermal expansion. I'm hoping it doesn't come to that....

[GIZMO]

You leave the nut on some to keep it from flying off, thats how much force it will pop off with. I use a rubber mallet between the prop and boat so i can really crank on the puller. Then I tap on the prop base with a steel hammer. Don't Hammer on the front or back just the side between the blades. Tap, tap, tap, Bang! every time.

[Fiveflat]

I've used a 2x4 across the blades and a 5 lbs mallet to get them off sometimes...

[bigdaddy_houseboater]

Strange. Mine came off easy. Mine is a 2007 and the same brand prop. (Different size and pitch)
I wonder what causes one to be so tight and another identical one to come off easy.
I agree with the heat. I wouldnt be shy about using a map gas torch at all.

[Fiveflat]

Don't forget to perform a detailed algorithm of the metals used in the prop vs. the shaft to apply just the right about of heat prior to performing the differential thermal expansion maneuver.

[laserfish]

I had to use the map gas torch the last time I did this. Not fun but it worked.

[GIZMO]

Is it corroded? Hose it down with some PB blaster...

[bigdaddy_houseboater]

Don't forget to perform a detailed algorithm of the metals used in the prop vs. the shaft to apply just the right about of heat prior to performing the differential thermal expansion maneuver.

No detailed algorithym is required. Ni-Bral and Brass expand at a rate greater than 316 stainless steel. That's all you need to know. Easy to look up the linear coefficient of thermal expansion of metals. Google is amazing.

[Timmy!]

Just "catch it in a coat and smack it with a hammer"! ...Clark W. Griswold, Christmas Vacation

[IDBoating]

You leave the nut on some to keep it from flying off, thats how much force it will pop off with. I use a rubber mallet between the prop and boat so i can really crank on the puller. Then I tap on the prop base with a steel hammer. Don't Hammer on the front or back just the side between the blades. Tap, tap, tap, Bang! every time.

That's what I expect(ed). I'm running hose and wire today, hopefully I'll take another shot at the prop tonight. I'll report back. Thanks to everyone for the assistance and encouragement!

[jwanck11]

This is exactly why I use the harmonic puller.