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**brett22i** · 05-09-2011, 07:31 PM

I would think it would be stronger and easier to simply remove enough material from the wood bunk to accomidate the through hulls. A cheap router and some new stainless steel carpet staples would do the trick.

**IDBoating** · 05-09-2011, 07:37 PM

I thought about that, and may still do it that way. But there's always a bit of "slop" when loading (a few inches of shift this way or that) and I don't want to crush the thruhull under the bunk. By the time I remove enough bunk to leave an adequate safety margin, it may be basically the same as cutting out a section and I'd have to reinforce just the same. That was the thought process that led me to ask the original question, anyway.

I appreciate the idea. The fact that you came up with it too suggests it may be reasonable. I just don't know if it's better than a straightforward cutout of a few inches.

**laserfish** · 05-09-2011, 08:14 PM

Now comes the fun part...doing all the work on the ramp parking area while the boat is in the water.

**IDBoating** · 05-09-2011, 08:28 PM

Originally posted by laserfish View Post

Now comes the fun part...doing all the work on the ramp parking area while the boat is in the water.

I can launch the boat and pull the trailer around to our house to work on it there. No problemo. My big question is IF I want to mod the trailer bunks, and if so HOW.

**Ewok** · 05-10-2011, 04:30 AM

Do you float the boat on the trailer or power it on? I power it on and I would think that if you left a space for the thru hull fitting it would still drag on the bunk sliding on and off.

**IDBoating** · 05-10-2011, 01:45 PM

We typically "get it close", then manually pull it into place. Sometimes we have to use the winch if the trailer isn't far enough in the water. In that case, you're correct - the fitting would drag on the carpet. I'm not sure how much pressure would be involved, but it's not optimal.

One thing in its favor is that we only launch and retrieve once per year, since the boat lives on an AirDock all season.

I'm still evaluating options. Thanks for the feedback!

**ajholt7** · 05-10-2011, 02:42 PM

Originally posted by WABoating View Post

We typically "get it close", then manually pull it into place. Sometimes we have to use the winch if the trailer isn't far enough in the water. In that case, you're correct - the fitting would drag on the carpet. I'm not sure how much pressure would be involved, but it's not optimal.

One thing in its favor is that we only launch and retrieve once per year, since the boat lives on an AirDock all season.

I'm still evaluating options. Thanks for the feedback!

Got any pictures of the boat on the AirDock?

**Timmy!** · 05-10-2011, 03:39 PM

I find it interesting that there are tons of boats on here that have ballast systems and they haven't done anything to the bunks to get it to work. There's a new 22Ve ballast install, his thru hull placement looks pretty solid. Is your trailer just that much different?

**IDBoating** · 05-10-2011, 04:33 PM

Originally posted by ajholt7 View Post

Got any pictures of the boat on the AirDock?

Not yet. We bought the 24Ve at the very end of last season, put it on the water for one weekend while we still had the other boat on the AirDock, and then tucked the 24Ve into storage for the winter. It's now parked in front of my house getting ballast, etc. It will be a few more weeks before it's on the water. I'll definitely post photos.

Thanks!

**Iwndr** · 05-10-2011, 04:43 PM

Wab, Do you have pictures of how your ride sits on the Bunks? What brand of trailer do you have? That area on my Boatmate is wide open

**IDBoating** · 05-10-2011, 05:07 PM

Originally posted by Timmy! View Post

I find it interesting that there are tons of boats on here that have ballast systems and they haven't done anything to the bunks to get it to work. There's a new 22Ve ballast install, his thru hull placement looks pretty solid. Is your trailer just that much different?

I'm sure I have the same factory-spec'd trailer as other 24Ve owners. My difference is in where I'm trying to put the intakes.

As mentioned elsewhere, the space under the floor near the v-drive is only about nine inches tall, so the normal factory location isn't ideal. (Tige uses plastic ball valves to shorten the pump stack.) I'm looking at other options.

Right now, I'm considering the hull under the lockers themselves. I have the locker floor and factory foam blocks out, which opens up lots more volume for fat sacs - and also gives me an obvious place to put the intakes. However, the combination of hull strakes, engine mounting rails, and trailer bunks conspires to significantly narrow my location options. The bunk is the biggest restrictor, and the only one that can be changed, so that's why I'm considering it.

**IDBoating** · 05-10-2011, 05:20 PM

Originally posted by Iwndr View Post

Wab, Do you have pictures of how your ride sits on the Bunks? What brand of trailer do you have? That area on my Boatmate is wide open

I have only one closeup at present, which doesn't really show much:

Explaining things: There are two long bunks in the rear, ~8 feet long. They run from the transom forward and well past the area of interest, so they're the only ones that matter for this discussion. The photo shows they are just inside the hull strake, which runs from 7-10 inches on the tape measure. The area to the outside of the strake (inches 10+) is too high, and thus too close to the waterline, to insure the pump would stay primed.

That leaves the area to the inside of the bunk (toward the right in the photo). This area is well under the waterline so priming would be fine. The problem is that the rail to which the engine mounts is about three inches to the right of the bunk. If I'm going to mount something there, I only have a strip about three inches wide to do it.

Plenty of room, right? Yep, until you look inside:

The tape measure is roughly in the same location here as in the previous photo. Now the three inch width become obvious. Still, it looks OK until you consider the side view:

The other problem is the slope of the hull next to the rail. Anything mounted on the hull near that rail is going to be tilted toward the rail. There isn't enough clearance to mount a full height pump stack.

This is why I was asking, in another thread, about 45 and 90 degree elbows. A 90 is the obvious choice, but a 90 elbow needs quite a bit of radius to spin onto the thruhull - and radius pushes me away from the rail and into the trailer bunk. A 45 elbow requires less radius but raises the pump closer to the waterline.

Sorry for the long-winded response, but I wanted to be clear why I'm asking these questions. If I could get some extra space away from that rail - i.e. if the bunk weren't so close - I could space away from the rail enough to either stand the pump vertically or have enough clearance to spin a 90 elbow.

Ideas and suggestions are gladly accepted... thanks!

**rmason256** · 05-10-2011, 05:39 PM

WA, Check out were I installed my thru-hulls/pumps.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14773

I had to cut down one of the thru-hulls so the pump would fit under the floor but no biggie. I would think the 22ve would have the same amount of room there as your boat if not less. The 2 thru-hulls on the starboard side do not effect the transducer and the 1 on the port side didn't effect engine running temp. They are not directly in front of them.

Mason

**Dave S** · 05-10-2011, 05:51 PM

Originally posted by Ewok View Post

Do you float the boat on the trailer or power it on? I power it on and I would think that if you left a space for the thru hull fitting it would still drag on the bunk sliding on and off.

This comment was the first thing that came to my mind. I know you said you only put it ont the trailer a few times a year though.

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