Tige 22v vs 24v

[duffymahoney]

Hey all,

Getting ready to order custom sacs and I need to measure a 24v. My buddy has a 22v. Is the extra 2 feet in the middle seating area? On model specs(on here) it says the 22v is 21'8" and the 24v is 24'10". According to sources on the internet it's 23 ft. 10 in. Anyone know which it is? Anyone in the spokane wa area have a 24v?

Thanks

Duffy

[IDBoating]

Anyone in the spokane wa area have a 24v?

Indeed I do, a 2009 24Ve. It's likely to come out of storage this weekend and begin the customization process which includes custom fat sacs. Depending upon what year your 24v is, they should be very very similar. You're welcome to drop by and see/measure whatever would be useful... just let me know!

[duffymahoney]

It has to be a 24v. I plan on getting the perfect size sac in it. Thanks though. Our weather is finally getting a little warmer!

[embo]

I don't own a 24v or ve but I know the 22v is NOT the same as the 22ve as far as rear locker size. Not even close. This was actually a reason we didn't go with the ve model...storage was less in the rear lockers than the v. At least as far as I could tell. Couldn't see putting a surfboard in and out of the rear locker like we do with the v model.

I did how ever look at a 24v and what I remember was the length was all in the middle of the boat. If you look at the cushions behind the driver. The 22v is about 8-10 inches shorter then the 24v cushion. From the sky pylon back and from the front of the wind shield forward, to me, it seemed like the 24v and the 22v were pretty much the same. I especially think this is true of the rear locker area. The 22v and 24v rear lockers look the same to me as far as size.

I don't think the difference is actually 2ft but I do believe the difference is only in the middle and not significant in other areas.

BTW, I understand you are wanting to go with custom sacs for the rear. Not sure what that will yeild you as far as how much you are actually able to hold in the rear lockers but we have one of the Jumbo 1100# sacs in each rear locker and while it doesn't fill them up full due to space issues, we suspect we get a good 850 to 900lbs in the sac and for much less cost than a custom sac.

One of my goals this spring in the next few wks is to fill the sac in the locker and then measure how much we are actully filling it up. But I push it pretty good and by the time I am done our rear locker is completely filled up.

Just a thought as far as expense. Sorry I don't have detailed measurments for you. Good luck. If you need measurements of the 22v I can do that for you.

Also my comments are regarding the 2005-08 models. I don't know anything about the newer models as far a size period.

[duffymahoney]

I am going with a full custom sac that will have the basic shape of the enzo sac. My rough estimates from a 22v and just adding 2 feet, puts the sac around 1800-1900 pounds. This is with the idea that I will move the batteries and take out the false rear wall where the batteries are. I am going to weight the pros and cons of leaving or keeping that area when I get the boat. Might be a perfect place to put my rule 3800gph drain pumps for each sac.

[IDBoating]

I am going with a full custom sac that will have the basic shape of the enzo sac. My rough estimates from a 22v and just adding 2 feet, puts the sac around 1800-1900 pounds.

FWIW, Jason at WakeMakers is working on Robert's (aka "ragboy") 24Ve right now. He is planning on full custom fat sacs for those areas and after detailed measurements estimates they will yield ~1150 pounds. This is without moving the batteries.

This is with the idea that I will move the batteries and take out the false rear wall where the batteries are.

Keep in mind the following:

1) The batteries already add weight back there. They are heavier than the water with which you'd replace their volume. It would be a net gain, but not as much as you might think and may not be worth the hassle of moving the batteries.

2) Moving the batteries (and the TAPS drive box on the other side) raises the question of "to where?". At least on my 24Ve, there is no obvious place I'd relocate them. Down in the engine compartment isn't really an option because it would be a nightmare to access the batteries. Moving them forward is a possibility, but now you're talking about a substantial increase in battery lead length which means additional resistance losses, cost, etc. You'd probably want to go up at least one wire size to offset the length - have you checked copper prices lately?

I have considered removing the floor of the rear locker to see if I can remove the foam that takes the place of the factory ballast tanks. If that can come out, it might be possible to have a custom fat sac that extends down to the inside surface of the hull. That would add a lot of water at the rear without requiring the batteries to be relocated.

Let's keep this discussion going - it's interesting, and I'm getting ready to start doing this stuff in the next few days!

[duffymahoney]

The ve lockers are so so much smaller then the 24v. Here is a enzo sac (1500) pounds in a 24v. I guess it doesn't even come close to filling the space when full! My buddies 22v lockers are so freaking massive! They are hard to explain compared to anything I have ever seen. Moving the batteries to under the observer area. I am almost 99% sure I will do this. If not for sacs but perhaps for my giants pumps.

[IDBoating]

I have considered removing the floor of the rear locker to see if I can remove the foam that takes the place of the factory ballast tanks. If that can come out, it might be possible to have a custom fat sac that extends down to the inside surface of the hull. That would add a lot of water at the rear without requiring the batteries to be relocated.

I just had an email exchange with Harvey at Tige regarding the foam that fills the space otherwise occupied by the factory ballast tanks. He says that for pre-2009 boats, removing that foam will void the warranty. From 2009 onward (which includes my boat) the foam is "just sitting in the hole" and can be removed without affecting the warranty.

I'm going to investigate that this weekend. This could make a big difference.

[IDBoating]

Moving the batteries to under the observer area. I am almost 99% sure I will do this. If not for sacs but perhaps for my giants pumps.

If you're not doing it for the sacs, why not just put the pumps down on the floor of the engine compartment? Unlike batteries, they don't need regular access. They're smaller and easier to get in and out of that space, too. I presume they're sealed so being exposed to water in the bilge shouldn't matter as long as your wiring is waterproof (which it ought to be anyway).

I don't think the agony of moving the batteries is worth it just for pumps. Just my $0.02, though.

[duffymahoney]

I think me drilling 2- 1.5" holes in the hull will void the warranty as well? I don't think I would want to cut the floor up. Custom sacs with my rough math. Meaning I didn't measure puts the sac around 1700 without removing the battery area. And 1800+ if you did. I need to really measure and look at what can be done. I think the engine dividers could be moved closer to the exhaust? Seems like on my buddies 22v there is a lot of wasted space back there.

[duffymahoney]

My first wakeboat I moved the batteries and it was super easy. Also puts them closer to the amps and stereo system. Honestly tige should do this on all it's boats. Easy to get to etc...The rule 3800 pumps are huge! I have 4 of them for this install. Should put the fill and drain times around 5 minutes for the 1800+ pound sacs

[duffymahoney]

Here is a picture of the giant aerator pumps.

[IDBoating]

I think me drilling 2- 1.5" holes in the hull will void the warranty as well?

Frankly, I'm not sure. Absolutely if a failure was the obvious result of a hole you drilled, you'd have no coverage. But if a stringer somewhere distant failed, I suspect Tige would back you up. I suspect the pre-2009 foam was considered integral to the hull's construction, whereas 2009+ it's just a space filler.

I don't think I would want to cut the floor up.

I won't do that. But it may be that the locker floor is in sections and can be removed sufficient to allow the foam block to come out. That's what I will be investigating this weekend.

I think the engine dividers could be moved closer to the exhaust?

On my CATS-equipped EX343, I wouldn't move them any closer. I'm working from six month old memory here, but there wasn't much room on either side of the engine especially around the upper exhaust system.

[IDBoating]

Here is a picture of the giant aerator pumps.

I've seen those. There is a vertically oriented version too.

Are you planning to use those for intake/fill too? If so, how are you going to insure their intakes stay below the waterline?

[duffymahoney]

Pumps are going to be used for filling and draining. I need to look again but most likely put one on each side of the v-drive for filling each custom sac. So 1- pump to fill each sac and 1- pump to drain each sac. A total of 4 of these bad boys will be used.

My buddies 22v there is like 3-5 (need to measure again)inches between his exhaust and the engine divider. My current boat. 2003 Centurion Avalanche the dividers are maybe a 1/2 inch or so away from the exhaust. Which would add like 250 pounds to the sac with very minimal work.