Grab Handle with newly added Tow Ring

[Kimber]

Well, after seeing WABoating's thread about adding a tow ring to the back grab handle, I decided to do it. I sent it to Specialty Fabricators in Giddings, TX (Curtis - 979-542-2682) - don't leave a voicemail, b/c their machine doesn't work right. This is the company that fabricates a lot of the stainless steel items on Tiges.

He completed it in about 2 weeks for $125. Looks good, at least in my opinion.

Question for you guys - the previous owner had powdercoated it a metallic red. When Specialty added the tow ring, they did the best they could at leaving a distinct line b/t the red and stainless. I like the look as is, and I have tried to polish out the burn marks - but to no avail. My thought is to tape off like a 1 inch area where the color change occurs and paint it black (boat is black). What do you guys think?

Question is - what type of paint should I use on stainless? Or, any other thoughts on how to cover up this color change area?

[robert theisen]

i think it would look good.but don't know if paint will stick to stainless.maybe another TO can help there.

[Wickedcummins]

Paint will stick to stainless. Metal is metal.

[chpthril]

Start with a prepped surface and use a metal etching primer.

Looks great!

[Iwndr]

That does look good Kimber, did the tow ring add two more penetrations for bolting through the hull, or were those already there with the grab handle?

[Kimber]

Yes, I will have to drill 2 new holes in the hull - not looking forward to that. That brings up another question. - can I use a pieced of treated plywood as a backer board?

[robert theisen]

yes,but there is a new plastic backing material they are using now.maybe someone else knows the proper name for it.

[Iwndr]

I think this is the stuff Robert is talking about, You may be able to get a couple of small pieces from your dealer/marina.

http://www.kingplastic.com/Products/Starboard.aspx

[IDBoating]

1) Why not have the entire thing re-powdercoated in your choice of color? I bet it will look a lot better than just "painting" it. If you like the two-tone look the powdercoat shop can mask off the new tow ring portion.

2) Marine plywood would be a good second choice for the backerboard, but Starboard is preferred. Be CERTAIN to check behind the transom wall before you start drilling - my battery isolator is DIRECTLY behind the grab handle, for example.

[Kimber]

1) Why not have the entire thing re-powdercoated in your choice of color? I bet it will look a lot better than just "painting" it. If you like the two-tone look the powdercoat shop can mask off the new tow ring portion.

Thought about re-doing the whole thing, but then I thought that over time the ring area where the rope attaches would rub away - so decided against that option. It is such a small area to re-coat, I didn't want to pay to have the entire thing sandblasted and refinished with a taped off area.

2) Marine plywood would be a good second choice for the backerboard, but Starboard is preferred. Be CERTAIN to check behind the transom wall before you start drilling - my battery isolator is DIRECTLY behind the grab handle, for example.

I am clear for drilling - figured that out before having it made. Don't know where I will find a scrap piece of Starboard, guess I need to start calling around.

[IDBoating]

I am clear for drilling - figured that out before having it made. Don't know where I will find a scrap piece of Starboard, guess I need to start calling around.

West Marine stocks Starboard in various sizes. Any decent-sized boat shop will likely have some around, too. You don't need a huge piece, just make certain you have a couple of inches of margin beyond both screw holes in each direction.

If it were me, I'd:

1) Cut off the corners of the Starboard. It's likely the transom has concave curvature in at least one axis, and holding a flat piece against it means it really only contacts at the corners or edges. Trimming the corners will permit the backer board to "settle down" closer to the transom. Then:

2) Bond that Starboard to the inside surface of the transom with fiber-reinforced two part epoxy. This will insure that you evenly transfer the stress to the whole surface area covered by the backer board, by filling the air space between the two. Appropriate epoxy is available at auto body suppliers.

The result will be a solid, monolithic mounting surface that transfers the stress to a very large surface area of the transom.

[Kimber]

Perfect - I will start tracking down those items. Guess the 2-part epoxy won't run down the transom? Must be thick enough to stay in place. Should I mount the backboard, then drill the holes? Or drill the hull, giving me exact marks for the backer, then after the backer sets up, re-drill and go through the backerboard.

[IDBoating]

Perfect - I will start tracking down those items. Guess the 2-part epoxy won't run down the transom? Must be thick enough to stay in place.

The stuff I used was a thick paste and it sets up FAST once mixed with the catalyst. We're talking maybe five minutes of working time.

Should I mount the backboard, then drill the holes? Or drill the hull, giving me exact marks for the backer, then after the backer sets up, re-drill and go through the backerboard.

I did exactly the latter. Before you epoxy the backer board, put a piece of masking tape on the inside surface of the transom over the holes. This will keep the epoxy from oozing back through and filling the holes you just drilled. Then, when you drill the backer board and cured epoxy, you'll have nice guide holes to use from outside the transom.

Report back!

[IDBoating]

In case anyone is interested, here's the stuff I use for mounting backing plates:

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=13

[Kimber]

Guys - over the weekend I painted a small 1 inch section, where the stainless and red come together. Taped everything else off, then sprayed a self etching primer with several coats, then several thin coats of a black engine enamel (all from Duplicolor).

Before I pull off the tape and paper, should I also apply a clear coat - thoughts? Just want to make the black last as long a possible.
Should I pull the tape/paper off and then apply the clear, so that there is less of a "bump" or raised area?
Will the clear look funny if I remove the tape and then have some over spray?

Just looking for yall's thoughts.