Backing plate material?

[IDBoating]

What is everyone using for backing plates? I've used aluminum sheet stock, and marine plywood that to which I applied several layers of epoxy. But there are a lot of "new" materials around and I wonder what the industry standard is these days. Application would be behind a tow ring, under tower mounting bases, etc.

Separate question: What about mounting plates that aren't structural? I need to move my battery isolator and it is screwed down to a plate of something that appears epoxied to the hull. I doubt I'm going to peel that off the hull, so I'll need to add a new plate that can accept screws. Fiberglass sheeting? G10? Something else?

Thanks!

[dom w. forte]

What is everyone using for backing plates? I've used aluminum sheet stock, and marine plywood that to which I applied several layers of epoxy. But there are a lot of "new" materials around and I wonder what the industry standard is these days. Application would be behind a tow ring, under tower mounting bases, etc.

Separate question: What about mounting plates that aren't structural? I need to move my battery isolator and it is screwed down to a plate of something that appears epoxied to the hull. I doubt I'm going to peel that off the hull, so I'll need to add a new plate that can accept screws. Fiberglass sheeting? G10? Something else?

Thanks!

We use a material called star board, its a plastic type of material that you can glass in, there are several different thickness and density.
Curiosty why are you moving the isolator?

[IDBoating]

We use a material called star board, its a plastic type of material that you can glass in, there are several different thickness and density.
Curiosty why are you moving the isolator?

To mount a tow ring. The best option is to have one integrated into the grab handle. I have spoken with the fab shop that makes the grab handles for Tige and they can make one with an integrated ring and the same footprint as my existing grab handle (i.e. the outer holes will line up), but the tow ring itself has two more studs that must be secured to the transom for strength. So I need two more holes directly behind the center of the grab handle.

For some reason, despite having all sorts of available empty space on the transom, my isolator is mounted directly behind the handle between the studs. Thus it will have to move to permit me to mount the new handle and drill for its two additional centered studs.

The isolator is currently screwed down to a piece of "something" that appears to be epoxied to the transom. When I move the isolator, I will have to duplicate that setup. Hence my question about backing material that can accept screws and such. I have heard of but never worked with Starboard. My understanding is that it is somewhat flexible, which suggests it could accept wood screws to hold the isolator. For other applications, such as a true structural backing plate, it might not be such a good choice.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll check into finding Starboard locally!

[talltigeguy]

My 05 Tige had alluminum backing plates on the tower mounts, I think they were at least 1/4" thick. I hope that helps a little. Probably couldn't go wrong with the alluminum, tried and tested.

[IDBoating]

My 05 Tige had alluminum backing plates on the tower mounts, I think they were at least 1/4" thick. I hope that helps a little. Probably couldn't go wrong with the alluminum, tried and tested.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking for structural backing plates. Relatively cheap, easy to machine, no corrosion.

Still need something that can easily take self-tapping or wood screws for general mounting purposes like the isolator mentioned above. Dom recommended Starboard, I'm going to check that out.

Thanks!

[Riderite]

We here at Star One Wake use 3x3 aluminum plates with rubber gaskets.

[IDBoating]

Curiosty why are you moving the isolator?

Just had another idea on this. Perhaps I could use standoffs and longer screws to raise the isolator above its mounting plate. This could leave clearance for the tow eye bolts but leave the isolator in the same place. The mounting plate looks like fiberglass or phenolic or something, so I doubt it is acting as a heat sink and thus spacing the isolator away from it shouldn't affect performance.

[dom w. forte]

Just had another idea on this. Perhaps I could use standoffs and longer screws to raise the isolator above its mounting plate. This could leave clearance for the tow eye bolts but leave the isolator in the same place. The mounting plate looks like fiberglass or phenolic or something, so I doubt it is acting as a heat sink and thus spacing the isolator away from it shouldn't affect performance.

I would believe that tige is useing some kind of synthetic board behind the isolator, ya if you can space it that probably would work.

[IDBoating]

I would believe that tige is useing some kind of synthetic board behind the isolator, ya if you can space it that probably would work.

Only remaining question then becomes whether that "board" can properly transfer the stresses to the transom. It appears epoxied, but I don't know if they were careful to prevent voids and such since they didn't expect it to have any stresses. If I bolt the tow ring to that board and it's not properly secured to the transom, I could be transferring stress to an air pocket.

Still not sure how it will all work out. I'll know more once I pull the boat from storage and start digging into it.

[IDBoating]

I would believe that tige is useing some kind of synthetic board behind the isolator, ya if you can space it that probably would work.

Tige just got back to me. The isolator is mounted on a piece of Starboard. They shoot some chopper gun glass behind it and on it. Sounds plenty strong to me.

Tige recommends I simply move the isolator and mount the new tow ring/handle as planned.

Now I just need to find another piece of Starboard somewhere local, or mount it on standoffs as discussed earlier.

Thanks!

EDIT: Looks like West Marine carries Starboard, at least online.

[skyski_tige]

Tige just got back to me. The isolator is mounted on a piece of Starboard. They shoot some chopper gun glass behind it and on it. Sounds plenty strong to me.

Tige recommends I simply move the isolator and mount the new tow ring/handle as planned.

Now I just need to find another piece of Starboard somewhere local, or mount it on standoffs as discussed earlier.

Thanks!

EDIT: Looks like West Marine carries Starboard, at least online.

Most glass shops carry the starboard.