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    Adding centered tow ring to 24Ve transom...

    This has been discussed in a couple of other forums, but to make things easier I thought I'd center the discussion into its own thread.

    My new 24Ve didn't come with a tow ring (for towing inflatables). I do not want to use one of those straps that connects to the two transom lift rings because that arrangement puts enormous side load stress on the two attachment points; the leverage actually multiplies the straightline load. (Doing that is a common mistake when setting up a top rope anchor for rock climbing and has led to many failures, injuries, and deaths.) I don't want to put that kind of lateral stress on the transom, especially when it can be avoided with something as easy and proven as a dedicated tow ring.

    Unfortunately, there isn't a lot of unused area in the center of my transom:



    The grab handle is pretty high, and the Tige logo basically takes up the rest of the space down to the swim platform.

    Then user "lwndr" here referred me to this photo:



    ...and its integrated handle/ring setup. The beauty here is that this arrangement would not take up any more room on the transom. If I could get one of these handles made with a tow ring integrated into it, the new handle would install into the existing holes and not take up any more room on the transom.

    So I contacted Tige, and in another example of their absolutely awesome customer service they gave me the name and number of the company that makes their grab handles (they don't buy an off-the-shelf handle from one of the typical brands). That company called me back, and after explaining what I wanted they quoted me less than $90 for a new custom handle with an integrated tow ring. I consider that a very fair price.

    However, there is a catch. If you look careflly at the reflection behind the handle on the Moomba, you'll see that there are two more mounting posts to give additional strength on either side of the tow ring. Tige's fabrication shop insisted that was necessary and theirs would have those two new bolts too. This means I'd still have to drill two more holes in the transom, and avoiding that was one of the reasons the integrated handle was so attractive.

    Moreover, I believe my battery isolator is mounted directly behind my grab handle, up on the transom. If so, I'd have to relocate the battery isolator to make room for two new bolts, backing plates, washers, and nuts. Generally the heavy-gauge cables associated with batteries and isolators aren't left any longer than necessary, so there's probably not much slack available to just shift the isolator to one side.

    (Another alternative is to just tow from the grab handle itself. I'd need to check its backing plates to see if there is sufficient strength there.)

    My next step is to visit my 24Ve in storage and dig into the transom area to see how things are actually arranged. Since I'll have to drill two new holes anyway, if the isolator is where I remember then the logical thing to do is to remove the Tige logo and put the tow ring just below the isolator. I might instead be able to squeeze the tow ring just above the logo and below the handle, but I'm concerned that the tow ring would then get in the way of people's hands when they reach for the handle.

    Just throwing thoughts out there. Comments invited. I'll report back when I have more data.
    Last edited by IDBoating; 12-14-2010, 10:28 PM.

    #2
    I was looking at my transom last week and I think you can move the isolator up or down a few inches to accommodate the additional mounting points for the new grab handle. I'm sure it would not be too hard to add a longer cable as needed either if you wanted to move the isolator left or right. When you dig in, take a pic, the 24 should have a little bit more room back there than my 22'er anyhow.
    2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
    2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

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      #3
      Yeah, I'm planning to take photos while I'm in there. When I was winterizing I noticed where the isolator was, but didn't pay attention to how long its cables were.

      There are a lot of other places they could have mounted that isolator. I understand having it up high on the transom (in case of water in the bilge) but why center it? The total cable length from alternator to batteries wouldn't change much, just the "splice" point along the length. It could have been mounted to port some distance and placed closer to the batteries, leaving the transom's center uncluttered.

      I wonder what Tige does if the boat is ordered with a factory tow ring.

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        #4
        Here's shot of the one that came on my Tige. If you can get a custom one made I would do it. I don't think you want to lower the tow point at all. I would do whatever it takes to move the isolator and install the new handle in the same location.

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          #5
          Originally posted by thtrog View Post
          Here's shot of the one that came on my Tige. If you can get a custom one made I would do it. I don't think you want to lower the tow point at all. I would do whatever it takes to move the isolator and install the new handle in the same location.
          That's a nice handle. Mine is much narrower. I wonder if they automatically use a wider handle when a tow ring is requested? As it is, I'm now stuck with the handle width I have unless I want to patch the existing handle holes. I still think my existing handle, with a tow ring in the middle, would work fine (and be wide enough) if the isolator either isn't a problem or can be moved.

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            #6
            I may get blasted for this, keep in mind I am new, why can't you use the ski pylon? That is what I planned to use to pull inflatables. The ski pylon seems to me that it would be stronger than a tow ring on a handle. The ski pylon is what many of my buddies use when pulling tube of all sizes and there is a lot of pressure on them without any affect.

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              #7
              WA, Do you have the number of the fab shop? I would like to see about ordering one of these myself. Anyone know if the 22VE and 24 use the same width handle?

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                #8
                Looks good in the water
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                  #9
                  Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
                  I may get blasted for this, keep in mind I am new, why can't you use the ski pylon? That is what I planned to use to pull inflatables. The ski pylon seems to me that it would be stronger than a tow ring on a handle. The ski pylon is what many of my buddies use when pulling tube of all sizes and there is a lot of pressure on them without any affect.
                  The rule of thumb is "never pull inflatables from a pylon or tower". The potential stresses from inflatables are just too great.

                  From my reading here on this site, it seems Tige used to install much stronger pylons. Back then it may have been OK to tow inflatables from them, I don't know. But now one of the few criticisms you'll hear is that Tige doesn't have the strongest pylon mounting system. Since tribal lore says never use the pylon for that purpose anyway, I definitely don't want to do it with a pylon perceived as "less strong". Others may have different opinions and I'm sure they will share them.0

                  IMHO, the proper tow point for inflatables is a dedicated tow ring mounted to the transom (often the strongest place on the hull). That's why I'm trying to create one.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by 91Terminator View Post
                    Looks good in the water
                    I thought I'd posted links to some photos of it. Sorry about that. I agree, it looks great! Looks even better when I'm in it rather than standing on the dock taking photos {grin}.

                    Here you go, from trailer to lake:


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                      #11
                      Originally posted by jrj701 View Post
                      WA, Do you have the number of the fab shop? I would like to see about ordering one of these myself. Anyone know if the 22VE and 24 use the same width handle?
                      I don't know, but Curtis at the fab shop referred to my handle as "16 inches" (makes sense when you look at the part number). As a guess, I'd think that refers to the center-to-center distance for the mounting holes. Measure yours, see what you get, and report back here!

                      "Curtis" at Specialty Fabricators
                      979-542-2682
                      Part number TB10-1666 (for the one I have)

                      If the dimensions are the same, perhaps we can get a group buy going. Fab shops REALLY like it if they can do multiple pieces in a run; their per-piece cost drops because they can amortize the setup costs across multiple pieces. Anyone else interested? Please reply here and measure your grab handle.

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                        #12
                        Just went out and measured mine and it looks like it is 16" as well. Definitely interested in a group buy if we can get something together.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by WABoating View Post
                          The rule of thumb is "never pull inflatables from a pylon or tower". The potential stresses from inflatables are just too great.

                          From my reading here on this site, it seems Tige used to install much stronger pylons. Back then it may have been OK to tow inflatables from them, I don't know. But now one of the few criticisms you'll hear is that Tige doesn't have the strongest pylon mounting system. Since tribal lore says never use the pylon for that purpose anyway, I definitely don't want to do it with a pylon perceived as "less strong". Others may have different opinions and I'm sure they will share them.0

                          IMHO, the proper tow point for inflatables is a dedicated tow ring mounted to the transom (often the strongest place on the hull). That's why I'm trying to create one.
                          I have towed tubes from the ski pylon on my '05 24V for 6 seasons with no issues and no signs of a problem (no cracking around the pylon, etc.). I also read the concerns about the pylons not being strong enough, so I towed for a while from the tow rings (which I still do if I'm towing two tubes). I went back to the pylon because (1) it's easier and simpler, (2) you can get the tube in and out of the wake easier with the higher tow point, and (3) despite all the opinions that the pylons are not strong enough, I never heard of an actual instance of failure. I'd be interested in knowing of any actual failures or problems because if there's a real risk, I'd rethink it.

                          As for the tow rings, I can't comment on the physics of the lateral stresses, but I have heard others comment that those are extremely strong and made to support the entire weight of the boat. Now, whether a submerged tube could exceed that, I'll have to leave to the experts . . .

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Coop View Post
                            I have towed tubes from the ski pylon on my '05 24V for 6 seasons with no issues and no signs of a problem (no cracking around the pylon, etc.). I also read the concerns about the pylons not being strong enough, so I towed for a while from the tow rings (which I still do if I'm towing two tubes). I went back to the pylon because (1) it's easier and simpler, (2) you can get the tube in and out of the wake easier with the higher tow point, and (3) despite all the opinions that the pylons are not strong enough, I never heard of an actual instance of failure. I'd be interested in knowing of any actual failures or problems because if there's a real risk, I'd rethink it.

                            As for the tow rings, I can't comment on the physics of the lateral stresses, but I have heard others comment that those are extremely strong and made to support the entire weight of the boat. Now, whether a submerged tube could exceed that, I'll have to leave to the experts . . .

                            I have used the rear tow rings and bow ring to hang my boat while working on the trailer. Left it hang for 2 days with no issues.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Coop View Post
                              I have towed tubes from the ski pylon on my '05 24V for 6 seasons with no issues and no signs of a problem (no cracking around the pylon, etc.). I also read the concerns about the pylons not being strong enough, so I towed for a while from the tow rings (which I still do if I'm towing two tubes). I went back to the pylon because (1) it's easier and simpler, (2) you can get the tube in and out of the wake easier with the higher tow point, and (3) despite all the opinions that the pylons are not strong enough, I never heard of an actual instance of failure. I'd be interested in knowing of any actual failures or problems because if there's a real risk, I'd rethink it.
                              X2.

                              WAboating,
                              I think you are going to find pulling off of a point that low on the transom to be a disappointing tubing experience. The rope dragging in the water is going to stop the tube from being able to get out of the wake unless you go 30 MPH...and then someone is going to lose some teeth when they crash.

                              I can't believe I am now defending the pylon...
                              Last edited by talltigeguy; 12-15-2010, 12:46 AM.
                              Be excellent to one another.

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