Winterizing: EX-343 knock sensors/water drains?

[IDBoating]

The owner's manual says to remove the knock sensors on either side of the engine block. No problem, but it appears there are two threaded components - a bolt-like thing that runs through the center, and the body of the sensor itself which also has a hex for a wrench. Even the manual's illustration shows that there are two parts. However, for reinstallation the manual only gives a single torque spec so it's not clear if I'm to remove both, or just (which?) one.

Do I remove the bolt first, and then the body of the knock sensor? Or do I just remove the body and the bolt comes with it?

Thanks!

[ajholt7]

If it looks like this one on the Marine Power engines you just remove it in one piece. Don't worry about the top bolt.

[scoot18]

Disconnect the harness connector to the knock sensor and unscrew the whole unit. Not nec to remvoe center bolt, that is what holds the sensor to the block plug. Same as mentioned by ajholt7

[Dave S]

I can help with that, I pulled my own plugs in an emergency freeze warning here last year. Just unscrew the bolt threaded into the block. The owners manual explains this pretty good.

It wold've only taken me about 20-30 minues I am guessing, but I had a faulty ratchet, so it took a bit longer.

I was rather surprised at how much water came out and how much water lays in the engine after it is shut-off.

Then remember to jack your tongue real high or take your boat somewhere, where this a good hill so all the water will run out of the bilge area. I tried turning my tongue jack all the way up and it did not work, I had to back our boat down the ramp to get the water to drain out of the bilge.

[Ewok]

I was rather surprised at how much water came out and how much water lays in the engine after it is shut-off.

Then remember to jack your tongue real high or take your boat somewhere, where this a good hill so all the water will run out of the bilge area. I tried turning my tongue jack all the way up and it did not work, I had to back our boat down the ramp to get the water to drain out of the bilge.

Yeah, the rocker of the taps2 hull keeps the back end up in the air and the trailer Jack alone won't do it unless you Jack it up with something bigger.

[flyguy]

The PCM knock sensor is a little different from the Marine power one shown in the pics above. I forget what size wrench I used - probably 7/8" or so and it came out as 1 unit. Torque for reinstall is 16 foot pounds. Sorry I didn't take any pics of my winterization process.

The PCM exhaust drains are also different from pictured above - they are those big brass plugs that face forward at the forward part of the manifold. I preferred the marine power ones - you can pull those by hand.

Don't forget to pull the drain plug on the Vdrive and the one on the water pump as per the PCM owners manual.

I then used the shop vac to suck all the water out of the bottom of the hull as I can't get the nose up high enough to drain the bilge thru the drain plug. Really is amazing how much water is sitting there in the cooling system - probably about 4 gallons!

[IDBoating]

Thanks everyone, I'll pull those knock sensors ASAP as one piece. I appreciate the feedback.

I know about the drain plug on the V-drive gearset. It has hoses running into and out of it. But what cools the transmission (between the v-drive and the engine itself)? Does water circulate back from the v-drive to cool the transmission? Does the transmission have any drain plugs of its own?

[chpthril]

Thanks everyone, I'll pull those knock sensors ASAP as one piece. I appreciate the feedback.

I know about the drain plug on the V-drive gearset. It has hoses running into and out of it. But what cools the transmission (between the v-drive and the engine itself)? Does water circulate back from the v-drive to cool the transmission? Does the transmission have any drain plugs of its own?

There will be a small transmission cooler in line on the raw water hose between the v-drive and the impeller housing. It will also have to small hoses attached to it for the circulation of the trans fluid. The cooler will have a drain plug, but I prefer to pull the hose as it's much easier to manage then the small plug on the bottom of the cooler.

[IDBoating]

There will be a small transmission cooler in line on the raw water hose between the v-drive and the impeller housing. It will also have to small hoses attached to it for the circulation of the trans fluid. The cooler will have a drain plug, but I prefer to pull the hose as it's much easier to manage then the small plug on the bottom of the cooler.

I was wondering if that was the cooler. You're right, that plug on the bottom is basically impossible to access - on my boat, anyway. I can feel it, I can get a socket on it, but there's no way to turn the ratchet handle.

I did exactly what you described. I removed the inlet hose (on the same end as the plug) and felt inside the hose port to confirm that the plug drained the same space as removing the hose did. Not a whole lot of water came out, and the cooler is hard mounted so I couldn't tip it, but there's plenty of airspace in there so if ice forms it has somewhere to expand without damaging things.

By the way, the engine block plug / knock sensor on the starboard side is a BEAR to put back. There are many wiring harnesses, hoses, etc. that run right through that space. I ended up loosening the bolt that holds on the knock sensor so I could install the plug without having to rotate the sensor, then tightened the sensor bolt into the plug.

Thanks, everyone, for the assistance. I'm learning fast.