Couple of questions about propellers...

[IDBoating]

Get the 1235. Keep the 537 as a spare in a weekend saver kit.

That's a really good idea. I come from the jetboating world so I don't yet think about the risks to an exposed prop. Thanks.

I see you're not supposed to reuse the prop nylock nut. Are those a standard thread? I presume Acme can provide one with the new prop, but can you order extras for your "weekend saver kit"?

And... is a prop puller really necessary? Do props seize to the propshaft? Can't that be prevented with marine antiseize? (That's what we use on jet impellers and I've never had one do anything but pull right off with finger pressure.)

[thtrog]

No ideas on the shudder/vibration yet? I've experienced this on most inboards in a milder manner with vibration in the steering wheel. I don't know the proper term, but understand it is prop wash resonated through the rudder and typically happens when you take off with the rudder turned. I'm curious to know what others think is going on.

[chpthril]

That's a really good idea. I come from the jetboating world so I don't yet think about the risks to an exposed prop. Thanks.

I see you're not supposed to reuse the prop nylock nut. Are those a standard thread? I presume Acme can provide one with the new prop, but can you order extras for your "weekend saver kit"?

And... is a prop puller really necessary? Do props seize to the propshaft? Can't that be prevented with marine antiseize? (That's what we use on jet impellers and I've never had one do anything but pull right off with finger pressure.)

If one is changing props weekly, then yes the nylock nut needs to be changed, but for a once a year prop swap, I wouldnt worry about reusing the nut.

A prop hardware kit (nut, key, cotter) comes in the weekend save kit, but can be ordered separately for $15.00.

IMO, the puller is needed although some have been able to get the prop off without the puller or at least improvising.

ACME offers 2 styles of puller, the less expensive Harmonic and the traditional C-Clamp puller. Most prefer not to go swinging a 12lb hammer at the bottom of their boat and go for the C-Clamp puller. $89.95

Weekend Saver, which includes the padded case, tools, puller, and nut kit, with C-Clamp $159.95

ACME 1235 $619.00

I dont see why a dab of anti-seize would hurt, but some say no.

[IDBoating]

No ideas on the shudder/vibration yet? I've experienced this on most inboards in a milder manner with vibration in the steering wheel. I don't know the proper term, but understand it is prop wash resonated through the rudder and typically happens when you take off with the rudder turned. I'm curious to know what others think is going on.

That makes sense, and if it were rudder related I'd expect to feel it in the steering wheel. In this case it's the whole boat. I would say it's an imbalanced prop except that it only happens at WOT and slow speeds. An imbalanced prop would be noticeable at higher RPM's regardless of speed.

[IDBoating]

IMO, the puller is needed... Most prefer not to go swinging a 12lb hammer at the bottom of their boat and go for the C-Clamp puller. $89.95

That would be me. C-Clamp will do nicely!

ACME 1235 $619.00

Are you a dealer? Is that a quote? Or just MSRP from anyone?

Thanks!

[chpthril]

That would be me. C-Clamp will do nicely!



Are you a dealer? Is that a quote? Or just MSRP from anyone?

Thanks!

yes, no, yes

[Fiveflat]

what the yes, no, yes on the ACME 911?

[Ewok]

WABoating, order the kit from chpthril, he has helped out tons of dudes on this site including myself on several occasions. Send him a pm and he'll send you a quote.

[talltigeguy]

And... is a prop puller really necessary? Do props seize to the propshaft? Can't that be prevented with marine antiseize? (That's what we use on jet impellers and I've never had one do anything but pull right off with finger pressure.)

Having been there and done that, it can be a real biatch to get off there if you wait a couple of years. I found it comes off much easier if you put some bearing grease on the shaft. I once was under the boat with a blow torch, and gave it one last whack with a hammer before applying the heat, and then it came off.

FWIW, MC went with a splined shaft and it comes off piece of cake without a puller in most cases. Simpler than having a the key you need for the shaft as well.

[IDBoating]

FWIW, MC went with a splined shaft and it comes off piece of cake without a puller in most cases. Simpler than having a the key you need for the shaft as well.

Oh, they use a key?!? I'm used to splined shafts on jetdrives. They work great, as you noted. I wonder why all inboards don't use splines?

Thanks for the info!