Tow point on transom?

[loudelectronics]

I agree it's possible to tow from the pylon, but is it recommended? I ask for two reasons:

1) Towing inflatables involves a LOT of stress. The pylon has a lot of leverage against its mount points since the rope is attached at one end while the mount points are quite a ways below.

2) I read a thread, somewhere, that suggested Tige pylons aren't the strongest with respect to mounting, which gives me pause considering #1 above.

The pylon on the V drives is for towing tubes and skiers. It is plenty strong enough for that. It is not recomended to tow on a tower unless it is the new Aplha Z. This is cast aluminum and capable of handling these stresses. This is what I was told when I was at factory. The older towers, tube style should not be used for towing anything but boarders. The pylon should be used for everything else.

[embo]

SO he is saying it is part of 'normal use' to pull tubes from the pylon.

Not the way I read it. In the owner's manual, the Pylon is rated for 300lbs. The email I posted is in reference to the lifting rings on the transom. This is where he is talking about pulling tubes from.

Guess I have to look at where the rope is on mine and see if it drags in the water. If so, looks like we might be reinforcing the Pylon. What a shame that Tige didn't do this. I didn't think the pylon was this weak. I have never had a boat with a pylon so I just figured that if you tow a skier, you should be able to tow tubes as well. Oh well, nothing some modification won't cure. I think I will take it to the figerglass guy and come up with a "best option" to get the job done with out costing me one of my arms.

Seems like if there were reinforcement arms/struts coming from the transom in the form of a triangle to the pylon that were over the top of the engine, and a anchor point similar to the one posted on an older model tige, that would be over engineering at it's finest. Then when you need to work on the engine (hopefully never) you just unbolt the two top reinforcement struts and go to work. This what both the top and bottom of the pylon would be completely secure.

[Nobody]

Not the way I read it. In the owner's manual, the Pylon is rated for 300lbs. The email I posted is in reference to the lifting rings on the transom. This is where he is talking about pulling tubes from.

Guess I have to look at where the rope is on mine and see if it drags in the water. If so, looks like we might be reinforcing the Pylon. What a shame that Tige didn't do this. I didn't think the pylon was this weak. I have never had a boat with a pylon so I just figured that if you tow a skier, you should be able to tow tubes as well. Oh well, nothing some modification won't cure. I think I will take it to the figerglass guy and come up with a "best option" to get the job done with out costing me one of my arms.

Seems like if there were reinforcement arms/struts coming from the transom in the form of a triangle to the pylon that were over the top of the engine, and a anchor point similar to the one posted on an older model tige, that would be over engineering at it's finest. Then when you need to work on the engine (hopefully never) you just unbolt the two top reinforcement struts and go to work. This what both the top and bottom of the pylon would be completely secure.

I'll try to get a picture of our reinforcement setup this weekend.

[Nobody]

Somebody out there wanted a picture of my pylon reinforcement.

Here it is.........

1/4" X 2.5" X 24" aluminum plate ($20), machine smooth around the corners and edges, 4 counter sunk holes (.50"), and one center hole, (.75")
($120). Marine grade powdercoat black ($30). The underside plate is 2.5" X 2.5" X 24" 316 stainless steel angle ($40). The 4 bolts are .50" X 4" long ($15). We used 701 Dow silicone sealant on the topside and 3M4200 on the underside (SS plate).

3 weeks ago we towed in a very large pontoon boat on Lake Tarpon with 8 passengers using this pylon. I would assume we had a 4000lb load (distance was 1/2 mile). Lo and behold the boat owner had a 4Mil home on the water and invited us in to weather the storm and give us a car collection and gun collection tour. (you just never know) I held a Tommy gun and and a AK47.

I know this "pylon" issue is somewhat argumentative, but I belive the Tige pylon without reinforcements is somewhat inadequate for supersized towables and pulling other watercraft.

[MoneyPity]

FYI
The peeps who bought my 07 20V have been pulling 3 Screamer 60 inch tubes with adult riders using pylon. From what they have told me the pylon is still solid as heck but the fiberglass has stress cracks all around the pylon and supposedly to the horizontal surface that the engine cover sits on. I have not seen. They called me complaining about it like I was a boat dealer or something.

[embo]

Somebody out there wanted a picture of my pylon reinforcement.

Here it is.........

1/4" X 2.5" X 24" aluminum plate ($20), machine smooth around the corners and edges, 4 counter sunk holes (.50"), and one center hole, (.75")
($120). Marine grade powdercoat black ($30). The underside plate is 2.5" X 2.5" X 24" 316 stainless steel angle ($40). The 4 bolts are .50" X 4" long ($15). We used 701 Dow silicone sealant on the topside and 3M4200 on the underside (SS plate).

*NoBody*
Just wondering if you could tell me why you used aluminum on top and SS on the bottom.

Also, did you use the silicone and the 3m4200 just to make sure the plate wouldn't move?

I like the look of this plate...your project turn out very nice.