2010 Pro Ballast RZ2, Front System Issue

[rensink]

I asked the same question they " said " sitting at the right angle will cause it to lose prime

[ragboy]

So does it like to be tilted UP, or tilted back? bow high or down?

[talltigeguy]

I asked the same question they " said " sitting at the right angle will cause it to lose prime

The hose being at the wrong angle will cause it to lose prime, not the boat.

[rensink]

Thanks for the clearing that up, so what is the ideal way of the hose?

[ragboy]

ditto

[rushin]

like i said before, if those pumps are standing straight up they can not get water to them as good as they could if they are laid over. I did that to ours and it helped.

[ragboy]

So how did you lay yours over? What did you do?

Now that I can get in there and undo the pump, let water flow in, then put it back, I can reprime, so I won't be stuck again, but would like to not have to do that often. Thinking maybe close the check valves before putting up on lift to hold some water in? Less to prime?

Looking at the pumps, why would the front pumps be more likely to lose prime?

Thanks again, our front left wouldn't prime yesterday, we got in there and reprimed, and it worked.

[Duncan]

Baring a kinked hose, I may look at removing the check valve and adding a vented loop up near the sac.

Then your new problem would be frequent auto-siphoning. It is hard (if not impossible) to get the vent riser loop high enough to not siphon (even running on engine side of compartment).

If you do go riser loop, consider running the vent line to the opposite side! Siphon solved.

[chpthril]

Then your new problem would be frequent auto-siphoning. It is hard (if not impossible) to get the vent riser loop high enough to not siphon (even running on engine side of compartment).

If you do go riser loop, consider running the vent line to the opposite side! Siphon solved.

Thats what the vented-loop is for, stop the siphoning, same as a check-valve.

[rushin]

So how did you lay yours over? What did you do?

I rebuilt the manifold that all 4 fill pumps are in.

[chpthril]

I rebuilt the manifold that all 4 fill pumps are in.

Only problem is, the new Tiges use individual pickup, so one would have to add on an elbow to each thru-hull to lay the pump over and get it lower in the bilge. Hard to say if there would be room.

[thtrog]

Only problem is, the new Tiges use individual pickup, so one would have to add on an elbow to each thru-hull to lay the pump over and get it lower in the bilge. Hard to say if there would be room.

I don't know if this helps, but my boat has four thru-hull pickups also. It has these anti-siphon valves and I've never had a pump lose prime.
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=994

[rushin]

Only problem is, the new Tiges use individual pickup,

4 individual pick-up's on the bottom of the boat? Really? seems like overkill.

[chpthril]

I don't know if this helps, but my boat has four thru-hull pickups also. It has these anti-siphon valves and I've never had a pump lose prime.
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=994

That's what i'm suggesting needs to be put in place of the bronze check-valves. I think the c/v's are holding water between them and the sac, as they are intended to, and the weight of the water is holding the c/v door closed and not allowing the air to bleed out of the pump. XPJim had this issue on his ballast install and removed/relocated the c/v's and bingo!. The vented loops work great and are found on a lot of boats with low freeboard. I try to avoid them due to cost, but sometimes they are needed.

[ragboy]

I had RJ stick his head down there, I think the check valves were not bronze, but I will see if I can get a pic, going out today. I have at least a way to fix it if it is an issue again, but may replace the valves with what you are suggesting.