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Thinking about buying a Tige, and have a few questions...

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    #16
    Originally posted by WABoating View Post
    HUH? Only back up in one direction? Seriously? Or are you just kidding me?

    No, he is for real. That is why you always park on the starboard side. The prop rotation swings the back end to the right. since the boat steers with a rudder and the rudder is behind the prop, obviously it isn't going to be very effective. And, obviously, the prop is static unlike a sterndrive. You jsut plan on it, account for it, and it actually becomes quite useful.

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      #17
      Originally posted by WABoating View Post
      Oh, so you feed it through a drain plug on the hull? The oil drain pan then sits on the ground outside the hull?
      Yes, there is a just a hose that is probably 6' long that is attached to the oil pan and you can pull that through the drain plug to drain the oil. It's really, really slow so I attach a pump to the end of it and drain my oil that way.

      I do all of the maintenance on my '07 RZ2 and it has been a great boat! I didn't winterize the heater properly the first year and wound up cracking the heater core so from then on I winterize by using the pink RV anti-freeze in the engine. Drain the whole block and heater hoses and then put all of the plugs back in and use the fake a lake tool to suck up about 5 gallons of RV anti-freeze.
      Last edited by Timmy!; 07-22-2010, 03:46 PM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by WABoating View Post
        One local Tige owner says he can generate 3-4 foot waves with the stock boat.
        Yes, this is true, I can generate the same wake. The issue is that the wake is too close to the swim deck. Weight in the bow will help lengthen the wake whereas weight also in the rear will create additional height as it also lengthens the wake.

        Honestly, I believe weight will be necessary before trying to surf... but it can be done.

        Yes, backing up is an art form. That is the fact of life with any of these boats. The prop pushed water past the rudder going forward. If the rudder is turned, the rushing water hits the exposed side and the boat turns. In reverse, this is not the case.

        Once a captain is experienced and comfortable though, they can walk it right across any body of water and stick their boat in the tightest of spots.

        With the i-drives, maintenance is easiest because the engine is all right in front of you right in the middle of the boat.

        The schematics I have in the manuals are from the manufacturer and are comprehensive. As for adding/modding - this stuff is not all that complicated - or at least I have found that to be the case. If I get stuck, the folks here are a wealth of information.
        Last edited by jwanck11; 07-22-2010, 02:52 PM.

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          #19
          Originally posted by WABoating View Post
          Oh, so you feed it through a drain plug on the hull? The oil drain pan then sits on the ground outside the hull?



          Got it. On my jetdrive, the area around the impeller is obviously pressurized so they just put an opening there, run a hose from it, and that drives water directly into the engine block and exhaust system. The impeller turns whenever the engine is running, so if the engine is running it automatically has cooling water. Totally passive, no extra moving parts. Another example of the ultimate simplicity that I'll miss, but part of the price that must be paid until someone creates a jet-powered Tige style hull {grin}.

          Your details suggest you no longer have a Tige boat. Is that true? If so, why not?

          Thanks!
          Yes

          We had a 21i for a few years. It was our first boat and we liked the idea that we could ski or wakeboard. We are tournament skiers now so we needed a tournament ski boat.

          Originally posted by WABoating View Post
          Actually, my jetboat is just Engine>Impeller. No transmission at all, just a set of bevel gears.



          I've read mixed reviews of those dripless systems. But I have to say, I'm not thrilled with a thru-hull design that intentionally drips into the bilge (which seems to be how most stuffing boxes work). My boat's bilge stays bone dry. Seriously, there's dust on the floor of the bilge.



          HUH? Only back up in one direction? Seriously? Or are you just kidding me?
          I've had dripless on both boats and they are great. I have not ever heard any bad comments about them.
          Yes the drip is actually a cooling method for the older style.

          Due to the rotation of the prop, the boat will pull to the starboard side when in reverse. This isn't as bad as it might sound but for some it definately takes getting used to. Most inboard drivers prefer to dock on the starboard side because of this.
          If you are backing up a long distance, you can cut the wheel and the boat will start maneuvering but generally you will be going right.
          Common Sense is not so Common
          Looking for fat chicks for long walks, romance, cheap buffets, and BALLAST.

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            #20
            Originally posted by WABoating View Post
            One thing I'll miss, if we make the change, is the maneuverability of the jetdrive. I can literally move the boat sideways through the water. It also has "brakes" because I can drop the thrust reverser at any speed. It will turn in its own length, which makes "parking" really easy even in tight spaces.
            While inboards can't move sideways (I haven't driven a jetdrive) they are very maneuverable - especially in the 21'-22' range from Tige. Our 22' 22Ve was just as agile as my father-in-law's old 18'-19' Supra. The change will take some adjustment, but I think you be satisfied once you are used to it. We upgraded to a 24' Ve this year, and while that extra 2' does make a huge difference in handling, its still a lot of fun to drive and gives us the control we need to avoid floaters/debris at speed (tracking fins) or when docking(backing up one direction isn't as bad as it sounds).

            When you get those ballast bags - that's when you'll feel like your driving a tanker trunk (especially half full for surfing). But they are so worth it!

            Good luck whatever you decide!

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              #21
              Originally posted by zad0030 View Post
              I've had dripless on both boats and they are great. I have not ever heard any bad comments about them.
              Yes the drip is actually a cooling method for the older style.
              I wonder why they don't use traditional double-lip seals. Those are very reliable and used in lots of below-the-waterline applications. Even my jetdrive uses them on each end of the impeller shaft. They are watertight and, when the time comes, easy and inexpensive to replace. There must be a reason, though.

              Due to the rotation of the prop, the boat will pull to the starboard side when in reverse. This isn't as bad as it might sound but for some it definately takes getting used to. Most inboard drivers prefer to dock on the starboard side because of this.
              We have a great dock and AirDock boat lift at our lake property. Fortunately, it's already set up to have the boat parked with the dock on the starboard (right, driver's) side. Sounds like we got lucky!

              If you are backing up a long distance, you can cut the wheel and the boat will start maneuvering but generally you will be going right.
              We back out of the parking space in our dock. It's a pull straight in, pull straight out arrangement but if there are waves or wind small corrections in either direction can be necessary. This is trivial with the jetboat because you just leave the engine idling and feather the thrust reverser; the boat turns in the same direction no matter if you're going forward or backward so you can do rapid fine tuning of the boat's direction and position. Sounds like I'll be learning some new parking techniques if we proceed with the inboard.

              Thanks!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Timmy! View Post
                Yes, there is a just a hose that is probably 6' long that is attached to the oil pan and you can pull that through the drain plug to drain the oil. It's really, really slow so I attach a pump to the end of it and drain my oil that way.
                Sounds fine. Slow is OK, I usually use the time to do other things. Maybe get the oil going and then handle the water evacuation while the oil drains out.

                I do all of the maintenance on my '07 RZ2 and it has been a great boat! I didn't winterize the heater properly the first year and wound up cracking the heater core so from then on I winterize by using the pink RV anti-freeze in the engine. Drain the whole block and heater hoses and then put all of the plugs back in and use the fake a lake tool to suck up about 5 gallons of RV anti-freeze.
                Sounds like my jetskis. Their blocks are not self draining so I rigged up a funnel-to-hose assembly and connect that to the water intake on the heads and pour RV antifreeze until it starts coming out the back. A little in the muffler and they're good for the winter.

                The boat's Mercury engine is completely self draining including the mufflers. You don't do anything for the cooling circuits at all. Kinda spoiled me, I guess. {grin}

                Thanks!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by wallacmc View Post
                  No, he is for real. That is why you always park on the starboard side. The prop rotation swings the back end to the right. since the boat steers with a rudder and the rudder is behind the prop, obviously it isn't going to be very effective. And, obviously, the prop is static unlike a sterndrive. You jsut plan on it, account for it, and it actually becomes quite useful.
                  I'll definitely have to acquire some new parking skills.

                  Thanks!

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by WABoating View Post
                    I wonder why they don't use traditional double-lip seals. Those are very reliable and used in lots of below-the-waterline applications. Even my jetdrive uses them on each end of the impeller shaft. They are watertight and, when the time comes, easy and inexpensive to replace. There must be a reason, though.
                    They are all dripless now but, they weren't in the years you are looking for.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by ajholt7 View Post
                      They are all dripless now but, they weren't in the years you are looking for.
                      I dont know about that. He said 03-06 my 03 is dripless boss has an 04 its dripless 05 are as well. now 06 started using the ones that are fead water from the engine but it is also a dripless but I am not a real big fan of that set up. Its ok but I have seen a few of them fail. Not a major problem but it needed attention.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by kko View Post
                        I dont know about that. He said 03-06 my 03 is dripless boss has an 04 its dripless 05 are as well. now 06 started using the ones that are fead water from the engine but it is also a dripless but I am not a real big fan of that set up. Its ok but I have seen a few of them fail. Not a major problem but it needed attention.
                        All I know for sure is that my 08 is dripless. I never have water in my bilge. May I ask why are you looking at a direct drive and not a v-drive?

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by ajholt7 View Post
                          May I ask why are you looking at a direct drive and not a v-drive?
                          From what I've read on this site, it sounds like the direct drives are a better "crossover" boat than the V-drives. We do a bit of everything, so the broad spectrumed capability is attractive. But if a really good deal on a V-drive showed up I would definitely take a look, and I am watching my local market just in case.

                          Why do you ask? Is there something I should be thinking about?

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                            #28
                            IMPO The seating arrangemenet is much better in a v-drive. They are also great crossover boats especially the smaller ones. My 20v is great for all watersports and seats 9 in a 20' package. Handles like a racecar.
                            Last edited by ajholt7; 07-22-2010, 11:40 PM.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by ajholt7 View Post
                              IMPO The seating arrangemenet is much better in a v-drive. They are also great crossover boats especially the smaller ones. My 20v is great for all watersports and seats 9 in a 20' package. Handles like a racecar.
                              Thanks! I'm not opposed to a V-drive; in fact that's where I thought I'd end up until I read all the comments here. I'm not locked into anything, and not pressured to buy on any particular schedule, so who knows... I may end up with a V-drive yet!

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                                #30
                                I looked a direct drives too, but I am very glad I ended up going V-drive. Unless you are a hardcore slalom skier I think you would happier with a V-drive.

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