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To Winterize or Not to Winterize???

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    To Winterize or Not to Winterize???

    I have built a detached garage. Last winter it did not get below 50*. It is not heated but I do have a salamander heater that I fire up a few times a week when I am in there working or playing.

    If I fake lake the motor to run Sta-bil through the gas and engine will that be enough?




    #2
    just ask Texas folks who were around last winter. IMO it's easy enough to do and not have to worry if a freak freeze happens. do the stabil, add fogging oil to the throttle body right before you're ready to turn it off for the last time, and pull all your block drain plugs to empty the water out. if you want to go one extra step you can drain the block once the thermostat has opened, then replace the block drain plugs and run 5-6 gallons of RV antifreeze through it. that's probably unnecessary in your case but some say that the RV antifreeze has anti-corrosion properties so it wouldn't hurt to do that.

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      #3
      Once you drain the system once or twice, its pretty easy and does not take long. Great peace of mind against a deep freeze. Im also a fan of an off-season oil change.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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        #4
        I'd agree with everything said here so far. Do an oil change, add your fuel stabilizer, drain the water at minimum, pull the impeller and lay up. My boat lives in my heated garage and I still use RV antifreeze. As you mentioned it does provide some protection from corrosion as it fills the space rather than air. To me it's also just cheap insurance to do it.

        I'm no mechanic but, with the amount of conversation I've seen around fogging oil it recommended to not spray down the throttle body as it can clog censors, rather remove the spark plugs hand turn the motor and spray through there. That being said, I used to fog my old boat but, haven't with my current.

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          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          Once you drain the system once or twice, its pretty easy and does not take long. Great peace of mind against a deep freeze. Im also a fan of an off-season oil change.
          Yes. When we loaded up last Saturday, it took me an extra 5 min to pull my 4 plugs…..waited another 5min and spun the motor to empty any water out of impeller housing.

          Oil change at start or end of off-season?

          I start adding stabilizer Labor Day weekend, so it’s done. Then each trip after I just top off fuel with correct amount of stabilizer each time out…I never know when the last trip will be, but it’s always after Labor Day for us…


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Last edited by Bamer; 09-23-2021, 11:10 PM.

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            #6
            Oil change before you put the boat away before winter and every 50hrs after that. I did mine at 40hrs this this summer as I knew I'd put more than 10hrs on my boat while on holidays. I'm almost at 70hrs now and will change it again for winter lay up.

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              #7
              Why before? I’ve heard 2 different schools of thought!

              1) change at start of winter so the old oil isn’t sitting n the engine all winter. Supposedly, the chemicals properties in the old oil like pH are not great for long term exposure for the engine metals. I don’t have any opinion or thoughts as if this is true, but sounds reasonable to get old oil out…..

              2) change at start of summer…water vapor can accumulate in the oil during the daily temperature cycles throughout the off-season. boat engine operating temps are much lower than cars. 160 v 220 or so. Any water accumulation in the oil will be burned off in cars and will not be burned off in boats. So the thought is to change oil at start of summer so you don’t have fresh oil that has accumulated water vapor during the off-season running n your engine all summer.

              Both sound reasonable, but would be interesting if someone has actually done a study of best practices!!!


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                #8
                Originally posted by Bamer View Post
                Why before? I’ve heard 2 different schools of thought!

                1) change at start of winter so the old oil isn’t sitting n the engine all winter. Supposedly, the chemicals properties in the old oil like pH are not great for long term exposure for the engine metals. I don’t have any opinion or thoughts as if this is true, but sounds reasonable to get old oil out…..

                2) change at start of summer…water vapor can accumulate in the oil during the daily temperature cycles throughout the off-season. boat engine operating temps are much lower than cars. 160 v 220 or so. Any water accumulation in the oil will be burned off in cars and will not be burned off in boats. So the thought is to change oil at start of summer so you don’t have fresh oil that has accumulated water vapor during the off-season running n your engine all summer.

                Both sound reasonable, but would be interesting if someone has actually done a study of best practices!!!


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                Used oil becomes caustic and can be rough on the soft metals like bearings and pistons.

                Condensation in the crankcase is a byproduct running. So there should not be much water vapor of condensation buildup during layup. So, I have no study data of my own, just knowledge and years of reading.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #9
                  That's great info on this threat. I am about to store my boat in a few weeks as well and will be putting it in a heated space. I will try and get the oil change done and put fuel stabilizer in it. It's a 2017 RZX3. Should I be thinking of doing anything else? I heard some talk about impellers...

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                    #10
                    Fuel Stabilizer
                    Oil Change
                    RV Antifreeze - Optional depending on environment
                    Remove Impeller when done
                    Blow out all water lines for ballast, drain bags, and heater core.
                    Pull all cushions to let the boat completely dry out.
                    *Some storage facilities want you to pull the batteries as well. Or you can pull them to keep on trickle at home or plug them in to your tender periodically if storing the boat at home.

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                      #11
                      Thanks for the info! I am storing it in a space that is at 15 degrees Celsius. I have a trickle charge, is that worth putting on for the winter?
                      Someone mentioned removing the impeller...should I do that as well? Not sure I've ever done that I will have to Youtube it.

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                        #12
                        I would not use the charger if it is indeed a trickle charger. This constant, but low, charger will eventually overcharge the batteries. You want to use an onboard marine multi-stage smart charger.
                        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                          #13
                          chpthril Can I just plug the charging plug in the back? The one at the back of the boat?

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by gumby
                            if you live in a state that has ever been below 32 deg You should winterize!!!! No mater what you think. things happen. Just worth the piece of mind.IMO.
                            I live in Canada...winters are cold here.

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                              #15
                              I do not want to assume what type of charger you are using, so I cannot say it can or cannot be plugged in and left.
                              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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