Starter Changed - Still not reading 12V at helm

[CJAuster]

Ok, the boat took on water. Due to that the boat had trouble starting weeks later.

So I changed the starter.

Checked the old starter at oreilleys and it was fine.

Batteries are reading 12.8 when I check them at the battery. Helm reads 10-11 when intro to start it.

if I give it some throttle it will start.

Where should I begin troubleshooting?
- look for corrosion on connections?
- key switch?

Thanks!

[chpthril]

Lets start by clarifying whether the engine is not cranking over, or cranking over but not starting?

Is that 10-11 what the gauge shows or what it actually measured at the helm BUS supply with a diagnostic meter? If the later, what did you use for a ground source? I ask this, because the ground side is often overlooked when trouble shooting a "voltage" issue, but its equally important. Case in point. Just finished a ballast install on an 04 22V. While water testing the ballast, I noticed the volt gauge at 0 and a couple other gauges not reading correct.

I had 6.3V at the back of the volt gauge. But I measured 12.5 when I moved my meter's ground lead to the helm BUS GND. So conclusion, bad ground to the gauges. Wired in new ground, all gauges good. now.

[freeheel4life]

Typically if you have to open the throttle to start the IAC is the issue.

[CJAuster]

Mike - gauge shows 10-11 and I can actually get the boat to start. It takes several seconds with the ignition turned over ( :10 - :30 ) plus me bumping the throttle.

then, while the engine runs it appears the alternator charges it up to 12 or so.

but when i turn it off and then turn it back on after that charge - it still is hard to start and the gauge shows 10-11

freeheel - what is a IAC?

thank you both for the help. This group is awesome!

[freeheel4life]

Idle air control. It's what let's air bypass the closed throttle body valve and into the intake manifold so the engine will run at idle.

Plug your serial number into one of the many merc part sites out there and it will come up.

[chpthril]

I think your extended crank/hard to start and low voltage on the helm gauge are 2 separate issue.

[Aschool]

I agree. Voltage at the battery to helm should be investigated point to point prior to addressing the turning over issue. One problem at a time seems like the best method. I've had one heck of a time finding a one line electrical drawing, if they offered that it would make troubleshooting a breeze!!!

Off topic, what a great place to be having the likes of Chpthril and Freeheel4life offering their expertise. Love this site.

[freeheel4life]

Normally I'd also question battery condition but if you are cranking 10-30 seconds at s time battery condition is likely fine.

As chpthril stated the gauge isn't to be trusted unless you have your multimeter/DVOM hooked directly to the gauge with a known good ground.

At this point the only real things to meter are batteries and B+ output at alternator. Doesn't matter what the gauge at the dash says. There's likely voltage drop that can only be confirmed with a meter

[CJAuster]

Ok, here’s where we are at.
I tested all with engine off and batteries on:
- battery 12.75
- alternator 12.65
- starter 12.65
- power wire at key 12.6

engine running:
- alternator ( it jumped around 6-14v )
maybe I wasn’t holding steady? But it jumped constantly.

after 5+ minutes of running in the hose the battery charged slowly according to the volt gauge ( from 10.5 to about 12V )

then this happened . .

NEW Find:
when I had the boat running, I had it hooked up to a hose via Perko flush kit. Before I could get it to run the water was in and plugged in for about 5 minutes with the engine OFF.

I noticed the bottom pulley ( water pump? ) has water trickling out of it and draining into the bilge ( engine was OFF )

after 10minutes of the engine running, and water running through the engine it started to overheat.

I have know idea if that pump housing leaking and cracked could be related to the boat not wanting to start easy or not.

thank you any feedback!

[freeheel4life]

Typically it's the bearings on that shaft for the raw water pump. It's a fairly common merc issue and they sell a kit to fix it instead of a whole new pump

[BrentP]

Typically it's the bearings on that shaft for the raw water pump. It's a fairly common merc issue and they sell a kit to fix it instead of a whole new pump

Free, I have the MP340 and it looks like my water pump is leaking as well. Impeller changed last summer by dealer (it was already in getting plugs and some other things and I am too lazy to crawl back there). So I’m assuming the seal on the cover is good. Do those Johnson (I think that’s who makes it) pumps do the same thing over time?


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[Majr808]

Brent, I had the same engine as you where my water pump housing was doing the same thing. I replaced the housing and it was fixed. My original pump housing was slow dripping while running (not from the cover plate)… when I took it off the engine it fell apart on my work bench.

when you put the new one in, the bolt pattern has to match up on the balancer pulley. Otherwise it’ll wobble like hell. A pain in the *** to reach back there but if I can do it anyone can

[BrentP]

Brent, I had the same engine as you where my water pump housing was doing the same thing. I replaced the housing and it was fixed. My original pump housing was slow dripping while running (not from the cover plate)… when I took it off the engine it fell apart on my work bench.

when you put the new one in, the bolt pattern has to match up on the balancer pulley. Otherwise it’ll wobble like hell. A pain in the *** to reach back there but if I can do it anyone can

Thanks brother.


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[boatwakes]

What engine and year CJ?

[CJAuster]

2004 Mercruiser.