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    #1

    Battery upgrade?

    Currently I have 2 type 24 Interstate batteries and have only been running on one battery at a time in my 05 22v. I get large voltage drop and belt squealing when running 3 reversible pumps. I'd really like to end up with 5 pumps. Thanks Chp for asking to take a pic of the switch on another thread. It wasn't obvious til I took a pic that my battery switch can run in "both" mode. I will definitely be running in both mode this year to see how much that helps. I'm thinking of upgrading to 2 type 31 batteries. Any recommendations on how to best have power available for all the pumps?

    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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    #2
    All things running as designed, your alternator and group 24 battery will handle 3 ballast pump running. Heres is where I would start.

    1) check the condition of the belt and tensioner.
    2) make sure the belt is not getting wet. Even a little water cause cause a slip
    3) make sure the batteries are good. May need to pull them and have them tested. Just make sure they use a modern inductance tester and NOT one of those old heater grid "toaster-tester".
    4) check alternator voltage at the batteries and right at the back of the alternator. Should be north of 14V with with engine running. A large drop from the back of the alternator to the batteries, = a poor connection along the way. .5V, as in half a volt, is enough to cause concern.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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      #3
      Thanks Chp
      I bought the boat about 2.5 years ago used and have put 2 seasons on it.
      I have no idea how old the batteries are but no change in performance in the past 2 seasons.
      I have changed the alternator and belt.
      My bilge is pretty dry.
      I can surely pull the batteries and have them checked and check the voltage at the alternator and batteries. Gauge is typically 13-14v but starts dropping over time with 3 pumps running. Belt squealing is rare but has happened under pump load.

      Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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        #4
        Chpthril,
        Got some time to looking into the electrical issue with the boat last night and looks like the issue may lie in point 4.
        Voltage at the alternator is in the 14s like 14.8v, and 13v at the battery and 12.1 at the helm.
        Tried jumping from different points to prove out bad connections or grounds with no success. Is there a rectifier or something in the wiring harness I should be checking that would limit voltage?

        Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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          #5
          No, there is nothing after the alternator to regulate the voltage. You have uncovered a clear issue, two actually. You have a sizable voltage between the alternator and the batteries, then another between the batteries and the helm.

          This is most likely a cable connection issue or a corroded cable to terminal connection. The voltage drop can be a result of either a ground cable/connection or the positive. So dont overlook either. Its funny, when its a stereo issue, everyone says check the ground, and they ignore the B+. When its a general electrical issue, its all about the B+ side and they ignore the grounds.

          You need to start by using the alternator housing as your ground point for the meter. Just make sure its bare metal, which can be tough on a painted boat motor. Then trace the output cable all the way to its end, which is likely the starter's main post. If the voltage reads good as the starter, then move the ground to the main engine ground. This is where the boat's main ground cable connects. Then re-measure at the starter. If voltage is lower then before, then suspect the main ground connection.

          Keep repeating this process of using a known good ground and follow the positive cables till you find where the voltage drops.

          Also, probe the stud and the actual cable terminal. A bad cable shows up when voltage is good at one end's terminal and then low at the other terminal. A poor connecting shows up when voltage at the terminal is good and low when you touch the stud.

          Another way to use the meter is called a voltage drop test. You prop both ends of a cable rather then touching a positive and negative. If the cable or connection is poor, you will read a little voltage on the meter. Remember, voltage is a difference in the potential of the positive side and the negative side. A poor connection gives you that difference.

          Fix the voltage drop between the alternator and batteries first, then address the drop to the helm. Just may fix both with the same resolution.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

          Comment

            #6
            Again, many thanks for the troubleshooting info!
            The starter post read the same as the helm.
            I had put a jumper cable between the B+ and starter post and it sparked pretty good but no improvement at the helm.

            At a point in time the helm was at the same voltage as the battery but after adding some loads from the helm the voltage dropped but didn't recover after load was removed.

            Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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              #7
              After another round of testing I find my 1st round to be pretty useless data. The data point were taken over a period of time with a bunch of variables mixed in between measurements.
              2nd round I fired up the boat and was getting over 13.5v at the helm, over time voltage dropped to just over resting battery voltage.
              When measured at the same time with multiple meters the voltage at battery, alternator and helm were very close and like .1v above resting battery voltage.
              I tried taking the alternator to 2 shops to have it tested but neither could run the test. The alternator is newish and it's still under warranty so I can get a replacement but feel the problem lies elsewhere. Does the ECM play a role in how much power the alternator produces? I need to trace the "light" wire. It shows 11.5v when ignition on, engine off.

              Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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                #8
                2nd round I fired up the boat and was getting over 13.5v at the helm, over time voltage dropped to just over resting battery voltage.
                When measured at the same time with multiple meters the voltage at battery, alternator and helm were very close and like .1v above resting battery voltage.
                What was your meter's ground source when rechecking after the voltage dropped?
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #9
                  The alternator was ground for all tests and checked to local grounds at battery and helm bus bar. Just ran the test again, plenty of voltage everywhere on cold start, could hear the alternator working, then over a minute or so voltage dropped in all locations and alternator didn't sound like it was working.

                  Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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