I’ve had zero luck finding a replacement swim platform, so I’m looking to make one. I contacted Tige and they no longer have dimensions for the platform. The boat is a 2008 24VE. Does any have dimensions to send me?
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Originally posted by gumbyI can't say anything about the the fiber glass platform. but the teak one I have a pattern for. (pattern off a 2005 teak) I just sent one out (pattern) a couple weeks ago to grebva3. The wood ones were all made here in TN by teak world. according to them the bottoms were made universal to fit a lot of Tige"s. As far as cutting the wave. I am not sure what BC is talking about. listing the boat might put a scar in the wave but we have shapers now not many people list anymore. It might be the case the fiberglass will cut/scar the wave like I said I can't speak to fiberglass.
Here is a video of my wave. it is a full size platform teak not cut.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVUFEfpaxuk&t=47s
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My platform is the OEM fiberglass platform untouched. When listed the water comes across the back corner. What it does to the wave is cause a line from turbulence. It's not that big of a deal and that's why I've never cut mine down or raised it up as others have. The biggest difference in how clean the wave shapes up comes from listing. The wake shaper also helps clean up the wave but mostly I found it added some length and power to the wave. If you are making a new one you have the opportunity to change it up from factory to whatever you'd like. This would be the only reason I'd suggest considering making it a bit narrower on the sides.
If this site would actually let me upload photos properly I could provide you some drone shots as reference.
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Yes, it does have the lip which I know is another mod guys have done to remove it. Besides noting it's there and seeing it in the wave I don't think it's dramatically changing the wave itself. I have a Z3 platform I've thought about trying but would need to make some different brackets to mount. It's narrower than my VE platform and of course has a smooth bottom but, again, I just don't see it making a massive difference to be worth it for the time and $.
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I only filled the edge that I cut off, it took time to get all of the water to drain out of the honeycomb but after that, I filled the edge with Bondo Glass reinforced filler. I kept building it up until it was about 1/4” thick. I sanded and filled with glazing putty repeatedly until I had the shape and smooth texture I wanted. I sanded the whole thing with 100 grit to prepare for gel coat.
I mixed the gel coat 50/50 with duratec (1 qt each, a pint at a time) and sprayed on 4 coats cleaning the gun in between coats to keep the gel from setting in the gun. I did buy a gun with a 2.3 nozzle to spray the gel coat but it was well worth the investment.
After it cured for 2 days, I went to work wet sanding, 250, 400, 600, 800, 1500, 2000, 3000, then cut and polish with foam pads and meguiars. Took time and patience to get the surface of the gel coat like glass on the areas that show on top after replacing the non-skid without sanding through the gel coat.
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Gumby, please do bore us with the R+D of dialing your wave. There is not enough of that chat going on these days. As I read thru old posts I have so many questions on dialing in the wave. The comments may be subjective but I take them as great tips that may or may not work out. I too was going to cut down by swim platform due to comments on forums and what new mfg's are doing, but we love our large platform, water pours over it when we surf but has no visible impact on the wave. On occasion I see pics of GSA tabs that stick out wider than the swim platform which to me suggests the swim platform could be wider if desired.
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Gumby, thanks for the info. I have an 05 22v. Enzo sacks in the rear that I figure at 1150 lbs in each corner and like 250 lbs up front off the top of my head. I run listed and have been added in off side weight. At the end of last year I had the offside filled level with the seat height. I'm running 2 diy gates stacked 2' forward of the stern and another midship. I got some lead this winter and looking forward to adding that to the mix this year.
After adding FAE I had a spray / rooster tail problem, the FAE tip is way lower than it should be. I was trying to work thru it with FAE and didn't like there proposed solutions and was going to try the horse mat. In the mean time I change to a 1617 prop and the spray rooster tail problem just about went away, super happy with the prop upgrade.
So are you saying the water going over the platform is increasing your wave height? I guess I can buy that. If I plateform start and have the board too close to the edge, the water rushing over pins the board to the platform, I can't launch but I can get on and off the board without it it moving.
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I'll add to the discussion FWIW..
Last year I was very close to cutting my platform to get rid of that line that cuts into the wave. (09 22ve homemade suckgate ~1300#/ side minus enough offside weight to give ~4degrees list to Surfside.)
I removed the platform to begin the project and thought why not do a test run with no platform? So I did, and to my surprise the exact same line cut up the wave!
Needless to say I never bothered with the platform mod.
Now I need to find some guidance on replacing the platform brackets :-(
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This was the the contact I had from the Tige FB page. I just finished doing this change last month. It's not a terribly difficult job. I'd recommend masking around the current brackets so you know where the brackets go back on as the holes in the hull around 3 times the size of the bolts. Also, have lots of 3m Marine sealant and rubbing alcohol or similar to clean everything up. It gets a little messy working on the inside of the boat putting the nuts back on while the sealant oozes everywhere.Attached Files
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