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    Gel coat for repairs

    Hey dudes! I’m going to start my GSA plate install and trying to figure out how to fix my gel coat, I’m filling the old holes, and treating as a new install. I have some dings to fix in the same color, anyways, and I’m not going back to the TAPs plates. Just want it to look as clean as possible.

    Anyone know how to tell what dark grey gel is on my boat, and know where to get it, by any chance?




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    #2
    Pretty sure thats charcoal not stone, stone is the lighter grey. Tige could confirm if you have your HIN ready. If you go to Spectrums website they have tables you can download and search by year to get color code.

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      #3
      just a heads up. not sure how they are now but when I ordered gel from iboats a year ago it took just over 3 weeks to get it. communication was amazing and they were great to deal with but it didn't ship next day. they stated it was due to an investment company buyout and switching everything over so might be better now.

      spectrum won't ship to end users, you will need to order from: https://www.iboats.com/ they are the official online dealer for spectrum and if you click order it'll swap you over to iboats.

      product was a dead-on match on our old z3. we matched white and the bright blue. you could tell the difference at 1 or 2ft but beyond that it was spot on. I attribute some of the SLIGHT variation to sunfading. boat was 5.5yrs old.
      2012 22ve.. RIP 4/17
      2014 Z3.. Surf away

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        #4
        Sorry, should have mentioned that. You can also order from any dealer/glass repair shop thats set up with Spectrum. Part of the other issue is gel will not get shipped via air freight so you have to wait om ground shipping....plus them to ship it.

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          #5
          You guys are awesome!! I’ve done a bunch of fiberglass work, but never messed with gel, so hoping it’s a diy deal for me. I hav DAs and buffers, and have color sanded, cut and buffed plenty of stuff. Between swim deck, plates, and FAE, guessing it will look fine, even with and minor color variation, or any imperfections.


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            #6
            I am NOT a bodyman at all. my repairs didn't come out too bad on mine and it was right above the gas filler cap in plain sight.
            set aside time to do it all at once tho would be my only advice. it's kind of a pita to work with as you mix it in 2 parts and shelf life unmixed is only 6 months per spectrum.
            2012 22ve.. RIP 4/17
            2014 Z3.. Surf away

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              #7
              Originally posted by sandm View Post
              I am NOT a bodyman at all. my repairs didn't come out too bad on mine and it was right above the gas filler cap in plain sight.
              set aside time to do it all at once tho would be my only advice. it's kind of a pita to work with as you mix it in 2 parts and shelf life unmixed is only 6 months per spectrum.
              Hahaha!! I was going to have someone do it, but I work with plenty of plastics. Worse case, I have buddies that do paint, that I can shame into making my semi-pro work look the best that it can. I’m assuming I can get it to look good by getting it as smooth as possible, sand it all flush, color sand, and cut and buff the transom. Finding the exact gel was my biggest concern, and you guys solved that for me. You guys made my life easier yet again, and I’m much obliged!! Once again, if you guys are in Reno, and need a captain to tow you, and feed you beers, I’m your guy!!!!


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                #8
                What are you using to fill the holes (underneath the gelcoat)? I assume you need to put something underneath the gelcoat in the holes.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by miller View Post
                  What are you using to fill the holes (underneath the gelcoat)? I assume you need to put something underneath the gelcoat in the holes.
                  This stuff works wonders and is super easy to sand back after filling. Highly recommended. I have used it extensively and have never seen it telegraph through or crack etc.
                  Whatever you do make sure you use a waterproof filler (not bondo) . Epoxy and glass fibers work as well but make a much bigger mess and are more of a pain to sand back.

                  https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t-detail/97775

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                    #10
                    I was planning on epoxy, but I’ll give Sonic’s recommendation a go. I haven’t messed with gel coat, but do have plenty of experience with plastics, epoxies, and paints, so I need to get some to mess with, and watch a video or 2. Assuming it’s the consistency of like an epoxy resin, and that’s about as far as I’ve gotten


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                      #11
                      If I can make a recommendation..

                      Why not just cnc the same template that came off your Taps3 plate and then Tig the hinge on. Way cleaner and no gel coat repair needed. You can take the assembled piece and then have it machine polished like glass.

                      Just a though after doing a million of them.
                      Germaine Marine
                      "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

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                        #12
                        Yup, I agree completely with the above. I'm sure it can be done but not sure how much meat would be left in the fiberglass after filling and re drilling.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Germaine Marine View Post
                          If I can make a recommendation..

                          Why not just cnc the same template that came off your Taps3 plate and then Tig the hinge on. Way cleaner and no gel coat repair needed. You can take the assembled piece and then have it machine polished like glass.

                          Just a though after doing a million of them.
                          Any chance you want to sell a set? Or have the cnc file you want to sell? I’ll be in your neck of the woods next month, I could pick it up, and it wouldn’t even have to be shipped. I thought about that after talking to Cole, and Josh, about this stuff, but didn’t want to get into having to start from scratch. I’ll still have to repair the old actuator mount, but it would be way less repair to deal with.


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                            #14
                            Just depends on what you want really. When I did the conversion I wanted to be able to put it all back to stock if needed. I made a cover plate for the actuator mount. I polished it, but I could easily have painted it to match the hull so it wouldn't have been noticeable. It's hidden under the swim deck so it's not bad.

                            I can send you a DXF file of the hinge mount to the transom. It may or may not match your bolt hole pattern. If it does you can simply print it out and tape it to your new hinge and drill the holes as marked. Then on the other side of the hinge you can drill holes to match the GSA hole pattern already there. Bolt the hinge to the tabs and then screw the assembly to your transom.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by UNSTUCK View Post
                              Just depends on what you want really. When I did the conversion I wanted to be able to put it all back to stock if needed. I made a cover plate for the actuator mount. I polished it, but I could easily have painted it to match the hull so it wouldn't have been noticeable. It's hidden under the swim deck so it's not bad.

                              I can send you a DXF file of the hinge mount to the transom. It may or may not match your bolt hole pattern. If it does you can simply print it out and tape it to your new hinge and drill the holes as marked. Then on the other side of the hinge you can drill holes to match the GSA hole pattern already there. Bolt the hinge to the tabs and then screw the assembly to your transom.
                              I know your reasoning, and that made plenty of sense. Mine is a little twofold. I’m not putting it back to stock, either way. The wave is going to be improved with the GSA, regardless. Guess I probably shouldn’t speak with such certainty, as plenty of stuff bites me in the ***!! But doesn’t seem likely. And I plan on selling my TAPs plates, after I get the GSA on, if possible. Also I have some gel coat repairs that need to be done, anyways, so I figured that location being under the swim deck is a perfect spot to do a trial/learning run.

                              If you want to send me that file, I’d appreciate it. I forgot you had that all laid out. If it lines up, I have a buddy that can cnc and tig it for me, if it works out. Save me that part, if I go that route. I’ll pm you my email, so I don’t start getting a bunch of garbage about CBD and Industrial chain. While we’re on that subject, is there a reason those threads can’t be deleted and blocked? They’re annoying as hell!!!


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