Cutless to prop distance

[UNSTUCK]

The distance between my prop and strut/cutless is about 1/8”. It’s so close that I can’t fit a prop removal tool in there to remove my prop. It’s been a while and a couple boats ago that I needed to remove a prop but that time was no issue. I’m now carefully grinding the face Of the removal tool down till it will fit.

A shorter distance is obviously better as it will limit runout and any whipping action by the shaft. This seems too close though. Like I wonder if the taper is too deep in the prop I have on there now.

Do you know how close they should be?

[boatwakes]

Okay, before grinding try a different approach. The distance between the prop hub and strut should be as tight as possible without contact (for best support) and no greater than half the diameter of the propshaft. Basically, as long as it's not touching, you're good. I suggest loosening the coupler bolts, not removing them unless you want to, and pulling the shaft aft until you have the clearance. Generally the removal tool should be able to fit in there without having to do this but see if you can figure out why. Did the motor shift forward, is the prop shaft loose in the coupler and bottoming out against the transmission output flange, etc...

[UNSTUCK]

Genius.

There is no obvious indicator that the drivetrain has moved forward, but will inspect closer when I remove the coupler.

Thanks.

[freeheel4life]

Do you still have the RZX or did you get something else??

Reason I ask is most newer bolts have the coupler on the front of the Vdrive, so shaft has to be pressed out of the coupler(is tapered at couple end and usually requires effort).

https://www.wakemakers.com/oj-prop-k...er-puller.html

These work pretty good^^^ air hammer preferred. Harmonics just shake it off the shaft. Doesnt always work, especially if some mongoloid over torques the prop nut.

[UNSTUCK]

Do you still have the RZX or did you get something else??

Reason I ask is most newer bolts have the coupler on the front of the Vdrive, so shaft has to be pressed out of the coupler(is tapered at couple end and usually requires effort).

https://www.wakemakers.com/oj-prop-k...er-puller.html

These work pretty good^^^ air hammer preferred. Harmonics just shake it off the shaft. Doesnt always work, especially if some mongoloid over torques the prop nut.

No and yes! We sold the rzx3 early this spring. We picked up an RZX2 a month ago ( I know....eating crow.....but we love it. )

So the shaft goes all the way through the v-drive? Could that mean the shaft is pushed too far through the v-drive, or does the coupler prevent it? I'd just assume the prop be as close to the strut as possible, but still need to get a puller on it.

I saw the "puller" (shaker?) you linked but read poor reviews. Does it screw on far enough to bottom out on the end of the shaft then transmit force though the shaft, or through the threads on the shaft? Any worry about it forcing the shaft in further when hammering on it?
I assume its not brass, but zinc coated steel? Maybe I'll just make one and try it. What's the overall length and width?
Thanks

[freeheel4life]

Nice. Congrats on the new boat.

The shaft goes all the way thru the Vdrive indeed. The coupler is a tapered bore just like the prop, so it can't really be pushed too far or pushed further. Just seats where it becomes an interference fit when the coupler nut is tightened. Im guessing your engine is just mounted a bit too far forward.

I'm not a huge fan of the tool I linked but it works. Like I mentioned, I have better luck with an air hammer as it increases the vibrations much more the slower hand hammer strikes.

[SONIC]

I've gotten by without a puller at all before as well, just back the nut off until it covers the threads put a piece of hardwood over the end of it and smack it a few times with a hammer, prop falls right off.

[cucv]

I often use Sonic's technique but when the going gets tough I get a coupling nut and grade 8 bolt, basically the economy version of that nice little tool they are selling. I have to laugh about the video that they include a Cresent wrench in the kit when they sell a composite wrench. Then they use the Cresent wrench as a hammer when they include a hammer. They should just include a miners wrench and call it a day. When I put the 1617 prop on this summer I couldn't get the prop off with the harmonic technique so I bought the prop puller. Even with the puller I had to use a 10 lbs sledge with more force than I liked. I guess the previous guy missed the note on how little torque these nuts require. I'm considering a 5 blade prop, does anyone know if the standard prop puller still works on 5 blade props?

2005 Tige 22v

[chpthril]

cucv

To my knowledge, the only 2 (tow boat inboards) c-clamp pullers ACME offers, are based on shaft size, not blade count. So not a 100% yes to your questions, ive never heard other wise.

[freeheel4life]

I'm not sure. I have had a couple props that had such a flat pitch that you couldn't get a puller on them. Not sure on a 5 blade tho. duffymahoney is the only 5 blade guy I know of around here. He might know.

[a.k.a. Bam-Ba-Lam]

So I bought new prop and Harmonic puller for my new to me 09 RZ2(1st V Drive newbie here)I thought to myself easy peezy.. I hit that thing until my arms were numb and gave up.. so I'm walking around the shop cleaning things up I saw a can of WD and thought hmm.. a couple of little squirts and I walked away for a couple of minutes. Walked back to the back of the boat, one little smack and the prop slide right off. That's my step by step from now on only I'll leave out smacking it until my arms are numb

[duffymahoney]

I had to buy a OJ prop puller for mine, then I ground down the fingers till the fit, it's been working for a long time. No issues.

[talltigeguy]

A little bearing grease on the shaft will help for next time. IIRC the recommended torque is only 35 pounds, which on a nut that big doesn't feel like a lot. Most people tighten it way too much.

This came from Acme with one of the propellers I purchased.