FAE for Christmas?

[freeheel4life]

Anyone attempt the through hull install yet? Looking for tips before I do mine. Thanks!

What year/model boat do you have??

[Jake26]

2020 R20

[freeheel4life]

Sooo...I havent done an R20 conversion but a few RZXs and I'm guessing the R20 will have the same issue. The sealant/5200 isn't just one the transom between the thru hull fitting but also the hole in transom so the thru hull fitting you have to remove is stubborn.

I get in with a putty knife and break the seal between the thru hull and transom. Then I move the 4 screws and screw them reclocked so that they will hit the transom and push a bit. This WILL hurt your gelcoat a bit but as long as you don't go overboard all the damage is going to be hidden by the flange on your new piece. Then I take poly banding, make a cross, hook on with a ratchet strap, and yank it out. Obviously you have to loosen the hose clamps inside the boat as well.

[Bamer]

Finally got around to installing my FAE this past weekend......


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[Bamer]

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[USWaker]

I got the flange mount unit like bamer’s. After dry mounting it and looking it over I sent it back because it was crooked. I wanted to just get my money back and make my own out of titanium, but in the spirt of commerce and supporting my fellow small business owners I had the replace it with a thru hull mandrel bent unit. I recently installed it. Took about 4 hours. It’s as crooked as the first one and is not centered on the hull, but it’s on there now so... Anyway in conversing with the owner (I think) lots of sealant one the pipe (even the flange mount type ) is important. He was very direct about this. So when I did the final mount I made a fu?!in mess. See images. I also upped the fasteners to 1/4-20 SS. But the way he explained it, the sealant does most of the holding. I used the slow cure and let it sit in 70F shop for a couple weeks. It may still come back off and be replaced with a titanium one though. One thing for sure, it’s going to be a bitch to remove.

[Bamer]

I talked to Larry as well and he said he hasn’t had any failures when installed with adequate amounts of 5200. I filled the holes with silicone and slopped on the 5200 liked you did too. He also said thru bolts will break too if not enough sealant is used. [mention]Jetdriver [/mention] did you use a lot of 5200 in your installs?


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[bsreid]

Wow USWaker I like the look of that through hull bolt setup. Mine is a factory version but the screws have backed out on me a few times now, added larger screws and more silcone, dealer was replacing with through-hull bolts this winter.

[USWaker]

I did use a ton of 5200. It seems that is has substantially more holding power than silicone. He also stressed the importance of putting spacer washers between the pipe flange and the boat hull. This would maintain a layer of sealant under the flange rather than squish it all out. I'm hoping a fair amount of the 5200 squished into the inside of the transom penetration, that's the idea. there wasn't a lot of room between the exhaust hose and the transom to apply more sealant from the inside. I'm mildly fat and don't fit in there very well. Another important factor to a successful install is sealant cure time and temperature. I was told a minimum of 7 days and the minimum temperature has fled me at the moment but Larry or the sealant package has that information.

[Bamer]

That’s why I used fast cure 5200. The temp range on the fast cure is 70-90. Cures in 24hrs at 70. That’s also one of the reasons I’ve waited so long, I finally got several days that was going to be in the mid 70s.


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[chpthril]

I would not advise the use of just any "silicone" product for a below waterline application. Even if it says its a marine silicone sealant. You need a sealant/adhesive that specifically states its for below waterline applications. Most of these products are polyurethane based.

now, in the case of the FAE, Larry is advising the specific use of the 3M 5200. Not because its a below waterline sealant/adhesive, but because its formulate with a higher degree of adhesive then other below waterline products, as its billed as permanent. This takes some of the load off the screw heads, in hopes that will not pop off as they had been before. Part of this is that stainless is fairly soft compared to a standard zink, grade 5 or grade 8.

[bsreid]

Yeah, my bad obviously used 5200 just called it silicone.

[Jetdriver]

Bamer-I did use a solid amount of 5200 around the rim of the flange on the ones I installed.
The ones I’ve put on are only a flat flange though, they do not extend into the exhaust cutout at all. They simply sit flat against the exhaust outlet and bolt or screw on so There’s only so much 5200 you could effectively use. Like I said the problem was the hardware they sent not being of proper size for the job. They are all still working as they should with the increased size screws.

[Bamer]

Got it. Thanks. They must have changed the design. Now the pipe extends about 3” into the outlet.


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