GSA installation complete (+ transom LEDs)

[BrentB]

I completed the GSA installation and underwater transom lights today (2018 RZX2). I started around 8am and finished at 7pm. Everything was fairly straightforward. Could probably do it in half the time if I were to do it again. I would say anyone thinking about doing it on your own, go for it! It’s really not that difficult as long as you are reasonably handy.

Once I get out on the water later this week I’ll post before and after videos of my wake (unless the wake stinks, haha).

Thanks to those of you who helped me prepare for the job!

[Ironrequiem]

Looks great !!!
Can"t wait to see the video.
Considering doing my 17 Z1.
Did you video any of the install or setup?

[BrentB]

Looks great !!!
Can"t wait to see the video.
Considering doing my 17 Z1.
Did you video any of the install or setup?

I didn’t video my own installation, but I followed the videos on the GSA website almost exactly, with a few minor changes. If you decide to do it, send me a PM and I’ll fill you in on my lessons learned.

[BrentB]

One thing I didn’t really think about until I was done is how much more movement there is at the upper mounting bracket (with the factory plates there is basically no movement at all). As a result, the actuator wire gets “pinched when in the fully stowed position. Not sure how this will affect the longevity of the wire.

[Zackdogg]

Looks good bro! I’ll do mine this winter, I wanted to last, but didn’t get my boat back until May, and didn’t want to cut into lake time, messing with it.

If you have any tips/thoughts, put them on this thread for all of us, instead of PM. I’m sure multiple people are happy to read, especially since this seems to be the direction most are heading, at least those that want the best possible wave. I’m also going to try my hardest to get my hands on a set of the heavier duty Lencos.

What’d you do with the Taps plate mounting holes?

Looking forward to seeing your wave, as well!


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[BrentB]

Looks good bro! I’ll do mine this winter, I wanted to last, but didn’t get my boat back until May, and didn’t want to cut into lake time, messing with it.

If you have any tips/thoughts, put them on this thread for all of us, instead of PM. I’m sure multiple people are happy to read, especially since this seems to be the direction most are heading, at least those that want the best possible wave. I’m also going to try my hardest to get my hands on a set of the heavier duty Lencos.

What’d you do with the Taps plate mounting holes?

Looking forward to seeing your wave, as well!


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I just filled the holes with black 3M 4200 (the screws holes from the TAPS3 plates do not go all the way through the hull). The appearance is not ideal, but it’s not bad since my hull is black. not all of the holes are hidden by the GSA hinges (TAPS 3 plate mount is a bit larger). If your hull is anything other than black or white, then you will likely have some additional work there.

Some of my lessons learned:
1. The easiest way to access the transom from inside the boat to get to the actuator wires (at least in the RZX series) is to remove the floor panels above the subfloor ballast bags in the rear lockers.
2. The GSA videos recommend 3/16” pilot holes for everything. The 3/16” pilot holes for the GSA plate screws are a little small. I would go up one bit size to avoid stripping the screw heads. The 3/16” pilot holes are definitely too small for the Lenco upper mounting bracket screws (I stripped a screw and had to use an extractor bit to remove it). Go up at least two bit sizes. And the 21/64” bit is too snug for the actuator wire. Makes it very difficult to push it through without bunching up the jacket on the wire. Go up one or two bit sizes.
3. Avoid using a power drill for your screws. If you drill appropriate size pilot holes you should be able to hand tighten everything. This avoids over-torquing the screws and/or stripping them.
4. The GSA plates come with a white spacer for boats without a flat transom. Most boats will not need to utilize it, but it is exactly 1.25 inches high which is perfect for positioning the upper mounting bracket above the hinge. Just place the spacer on the top edge of the hinge, tape it in place and rest the upper mounting bracket on it while you’re testing your angles. For most boats with a flat transom, this puts the bracket in a perfect position. My deployed angle was just about exactly 12 degrees.
5. Have a 12V battery available for extending and retracting the actuators. I used the battery from my Waverunner. A drill battery is recommend in the video, but most are more than 12V (not sure if this matters) and the contacts are often not accessible.

I think that’s about everything. Otherwise just follow Ryan’s instructions from the videos on the website and you should be fine.

[miller]

Look awesome! Nice work.

[Zackdogg]

Good info, thanks!! I’ve watched al the GSA vids, talked to some guys that have done it, and I’ve changed my actuators out a couple of times, so I’m plenty familiar with those. I’m thinking I’ll likely pull my plates and actuators, then have a gel guy fix that stuff, along with a few other repairs that I need. My hull is grey, which I think is paint and not even gel. Originally I had the plan to leave everything, incase I want to go back to TAPs, but the GSA seems like a far superior wave, so I really don’t see a need to go back. I’d rather have it all clean, and not have anything visible from the TAPs.

Did you buy the plates direct from GSA? Sounded like it was a little tough to get them, at one point.


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[chpthril]

My hull is grey, which I think is paint and not even gel

Have you provided your HIN to Tige to see what the original hull build color was?

[BrentB]

Yes I bought the plates directly from GSA over the phone. Quick and easy transaction. Received them a few days later.

[freeheel4life]

Have you provided your HIN to Tige to see what the original hull build color was?

Its been a while since Ive seen pics of Zackdogg boat but I think its Stone CCP from Spectrum(gel coat).

[Bamer]

the actuator wire gets “pinched when in the fully stowed position. Not sure how this will affect the longevity of the wire.

I’d bet those wire will break within a year or so. Can you flip the actuator 180 degrees so the wire comes out the other side. Then leave a 6-8inch service loop....kinda like this?


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[bsreid]

My wires on my GSA tabs are like how Brent mentioned not the best position that’s for sure. 200 hours on them with zero actuator problems, filling with water or pinching the wire.

You will find you need to run more bow weight or less rear weight as there is less lift in the back traditionally from taps 3.

[SONIC]

Annotation 2020-08-04 075557.png

Mine did the same thing on the wires on my tige install.
I pulled the wires out of the brackets and filled the holes with 5200.

I went with a pair of Bluesea Cable Clams and left a bit of wire extending like Brent mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...a-570118296640



If those wires break right there you will need all new actuators.

[BrentB]

I went with a pair of Bluesea Cable Clams and left a bit of wire extending like Brent mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...a-570118296640



If those wires break right there you will need all new actuators.

Maybe I’ll do the same. Did you use the 0.68” cable clams?