Battery Issue? Volts vs. Amps

[2014-Z3]

Question regarding the Blue Seas Battery Switch system:

I am running 2 DEKA batteries on my Blue Seas System. When I have the switch in the "combine" position, everything works great. However, once I throw the anchor to park for a bit, I turn the battery switch from "combine" to the "on" position so that I only draw power from the house battery and not the crank battery.

The issue: My sound system will not work with the switch in the "on" position. It gives me the blinking light for low amperage. My first thought is bad battery, but my gauges still read 12.8 volts. I also tried switching the house battery with the cranking battery and didnt have any luck. Is it possible my battery is holding the proper voltage but cant give off the necessary amperage?

Should I replace both batteries or could the issue be something else?

Thanks

[talltigeguy]

You should use a voltmeter on the battery, not the one on the dash, it is not always reliable. That will help you isolate if one of your batteries is bad. A battery tester would be good to use on each of them separately.

It would be good to know what the wiring is like. Are the amps connected straight to the batteries, or to the blue seas system?

When you say the stereo gives you the blinking light for low amperage, do you mean the head unit? Are the amps coming on?

[chpthril]

Is your switch and battery setup stock? If so, there is a diode isolator, so the switch should ALWAYS be in the ON position when the boat is on the water. Both batteries get a charge when engine is running, but neither of their loads draw from the other.

A handheld volt meter can tell you whats going on. Test voltage at each battery with engine off, then with engine on. Switch in the ON position.

[2014-Z3]

Thanks for the feedback. My voltage is good but amperage is where there seems to be an issue. The blinking light is on the amp itself. The light will blink, pause and then give several blinks in a row which indicates low amperage. I am going to check tomorrow to make sure there are no shorts in my cabling and then go from there. Thanks again.

[chpthril]

No shorts in the power cabling, as that would blow a fuse or trip a breaker. An open would cause an issue, but always, not just when the switch position is changed.

Im very confident you have a voltage issue related to the house battery.

[2014-Z3]

I put a voltmeter to both batteries tonight. Volts were good on both batteries. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or picture of how it should be wired. With having positive wires running to the Switch, Batteries, Isolators and Buss Bar I am wondering if there is a cable that didnt get connected to the right place somewhere in the system. Thanks in Advance

[FHELITE]

I have a question about the battery switch, I have a 2013 RZR. When the switch is to one battery, this is the "house" battery? When set to both this is considered is the "crank" battery? Does it use both to crank? Does it charge both if you only have it set to "house" with the engine running?

[KoolAid]

I have a question about the battery switch, I have a 2013 RZR. When the switch is to one battery, this is the "house" battery? When set to both this is considered is the "crank" battery? Does it use both to crank? Does it charge both if you only have it set to "house" with the engine running?

Combine uses both to crank. On only uses the cranking battery to crank. Should always run on "on" and never on combine.

[chpthril]

The Dual Circuit Plus switch does not have a 1 or a 2 position. Its two switches in one, so its or off for both banks.

I put a voltmeter to both batteries tonight. Volts were good on both batteries. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or picture of how it should be wired. With having positive wires running to the Switch, Batteries, Isolators and Buss Bar I am wondering if there is a cable that didnt get connected to the right place somewhere in the system. Thanks in Advance

What was the voltage? Those tenth of a volt are actually important. Was this engine off or engine running? Need both measurements actually.

[2014-Z3]

The Dual Circuit Plus switch does not have a 1 or a 2 position. Its two switches in one, so its or off for both banks.



What was the voltage? Those tenth of a volt are actually important. Was this engine off or engine running? Need both measurements actually.

Voltage was taken while the boat was off and read 12.47 on the house and 12.69 on the crank. Not the 12.8 you generally look for but I attributed those few tenths to the fact that I was working on the sound system so it was drawing from the batteries.

[chpthril]

Perfect. 12.47 is a little low, but still a good read. 12.69 is solid. Now, the big tell is going to be with engine running. We should 13V+ on both banks.

[2014-Z3]

I believe I’ve been hitting 13V+ but will give it another test tomorrow. If I am above the 13...any other thoughts on what the issue might be?

I know the amp isn’t bad because when I have the boat running I can use the system all day and it sounds great. Could the isolator have an issue?

[chpthril]

Measuring alternator output on both banks with engine running, will test the isolator.

[2014-Z3]

Out on the water now. With the boat running One battery tested 12.5 and the other was 14.5

[Bamer]

What position is the switch in?


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