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Outrageous Stereo Install Price - Opinions Please

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    #16
    Thomas,
    So use .75'' plywood instead of MDF? Do i still need to coat it with resin??? the manual says to use MDF, so will plywood work all the samme? at this point i just want it done and move on. if i have to do the enclosure myself do i make it 5 sided and use the bulkhead at the front/6th side, or make a completed box with a bigger cutout for wiggleroom and attach it to the back of the bulkhead with the sub attached and poking through?

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      #17
      Yep. That works. 3/4" plywood. you don't really need to coat it unless you want to spend the time. Most plywood nowadays can take a little moisture and not be affected. Just don't do what my dumb a$$ did and make a box, send it out to get carpeted, then find out that it won't fit in thru the door to the storage. I have been doing this for 30 years and the one time I forget to check the size (I guess I've gotten a little overconfident), it won't go thru the door. You can make the box any size as long as it comes up to the correct volume inside, cheapthril can tell you what that is. So you could go 12x12x5 for example if that equals your internal volume. AND MAKE SURE IT FITS THRU THE DOOR!
      I'm rambling... Sorry, word vomit.
      Biggest lake addict on the planet

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        #18
        Thomas,
        The manual says it needs .9 cubic feet (14.2"x13"x12.2"). Do I make the box minus the front panel and then screw it to the bulkhead wall and then calk around it and screw in the sub? Is it that easy? If so I may just proceed on my own. I guess ultimately I'll have to wait and talk to the stereo shop in the morning. Thanks for everyone's input.

        Bryce

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          #19
          Originally posted by Thomas Hohl View Post
          Yep. That works. 3/4" plywood. you don't really need to coat it unless you want to spend the time. Most plywood nowadays can take a little moisture and not be affected. Just don't do what my dumb a$$ did and make a box, send it out to get carpeted, then find out that it won't fit in thru the door to the storage. I have been doing this for 30 years and the one time I forget to check the size (I guess I've gotten a little overconfident), it won't go thru the door. You can make the box any size as long as it comes up to the correct volume inside, cheapthril can tell you what that is. So you could go 12x12x5 for example if that equals your internal volume. AND MAKE SURE IT FITS THRU THE DOOR!
          I'm rambling... Sorry, word vomit.
          I always like to mock the box up out of cardboard and see if it fits. The build it.

          Originally posted by Bryce View Post
          Thomas,
          The manual says it needs .9 cubic feet (14.2"x13"x12.2"). Do I make the box minus the front panel and then screw it to the bulkhead wall and then calk around it and screw in the sub? Is it that easy? If so I may just proceed on my own. I guess ultimately I'll have to wait and talk to the stereo shop in the morning. Thanks for everyone's input.

          Bryce
          Yep, the xs-12 works great with right at a 1.0 cb/ft box. Use the calculator tool @ www.the12volt.com, it makes it real easy to play around with what dimensions will allow the box to fit, but yet get you the internal volume you need. For a simple sealed enclosure, shape is not important, get the volume correct first.

          I have done a couple that were 5 sided, but it's tricky to get it all lined up and hit the box with the screws. I have come to the conclusion that it's easier to just build a std 6 sided box, cut the hole for the sub as normal. Cut the hole in the bulk-head wall, have a helper line the box up from the back, and then anchor it down with some screws through the bulk-head into the front of the box. This way, it's not a crucial where the screws go. Then drop the sob in and secure it down.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #20
            Originally posted by Bryce View Post
            Thomas,
            So use .75'' plywood instead of MDF? Do i still need to coat it with resin??? the manual says to use MDF, so will plywood work all the samme? at this point i just want it done and move on. if i have to do the enclosure myself do i make it 5 sided and use the bulkhead at the front/6th side, or make a completed box with a bigger cutout for wiggleroom and attach it to the back of the bulkhead with the sub attached and poking through?
            Being in the construction business my self I would still cover any plywood that could be exposed to moisture with resin. Plywood doesnt expand like MDF but when it gets wet it wants to bow and it will mold.

            My box is MDF and is covered with resin and is built up off of the floor in the port side storage under the stereo and we do not store any wet items in that compartment.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Bryce View Post
              Thomas,
              The manual says it needs .9 cubic feet (14.2"x13"x12.2"). Do I make the box minus the front panel and then screw it to the bulkhead wall and then calk around it and screw in the sub? Is it that easy? If so I may just proceed on my own. I guess ultimately I'll have to wait and talk to the stereo shop in the morning. Thanks for everyone's input.

              Bryce
              Make the front panel, but remember you can actually make the cutout a little smaller because the sub will be attached to the fiberglass wall and the basket will cone down some into the box. That will give you some room to be sure you can attach it tightly to the wall. If you make the cutout bigger, you risk not having enough room for the screws to grab it.
              Be excellent to one another.

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                #22
                ahhh now I see why i went w/a free air sub.....I know you sound guys will say that I am not getting the most out of it, but hey its in boat and I am not trying to win a competition.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by yllw20 View Post
                  ahhh now I see why i went w/a free air sub.....I know you sound guys will say that I am not getting the most out of it, but hey its in boat and I am not trying to win a competition.
                  The right free-air, with the correct power, on the proper wall, is nothing to sneeze at Is it an L7 or a XXX, no, but it thump nicely.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                    #24
                    I spoke to the owner today and he said they actually spent more than 16 hours on the install but didn't want to charge me for more than that. I haven't seen the install yet (will meet them at my storage facility tomorrow) but he said they took a long time in order to make it clean and something that I would be pleased with. He said the season all of the boat dealers in my area refer all of their jobs to him is because he makes everything look right and doesn't rush. He did say that they will be able to move the sub below the kick pannel the way it should be, which I'll be happy once that's done. He said one of the things that took a lot of time was setting the gains on the amps and tuning in the system. Not sure what that entails but the bottom line is I don't know how to do it and that's why I hired them. Thanks for everyone's opinions and support. Once I get a few pics this weekend I'll post them up.

                    Thanks again.

                    Bryce

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                      #25
                      I have installed several of these now and I like CHP have to agree the 6 sided box it the easy rout. I use 2" PVC pipe to support the back of the box as legs. Install the box measure your distance to the floor and cut the pipe to length. It works great and stays in place.

                      Sorry to hear your install did not come out to expectations. I am sure they will make it right if not worse case you do it yourself.
                      www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.

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