Let Talk Batteries....

[Domsz06]

i had 7 batteries on mine and about 8000 watts in system. ran about 2-4 hrs depending on volume and bass. Never hurts to have more

[robert theisen]

ewok sometimes the auto bilge gets stuck. debris in the float check that. once motor locks up it's just a draw. it's got a connector on port side near taps motor,just unplug it.

[Ewok]

ewok sometimes the auto bilge gets stuck. debris in the float check that. once motor locks up it's just a draw. it's got a connector on port side near taps motor,just unplug it.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look for that. Yesterday I had the battery fully charged and it read 12.6 when I left the boat. This afternoon I took the boat out and the starting battery read 10.5 and the battery switch was OFF. The bilge pump could be the culprit, I'll check that first thing in the morning, but the battery will probably be dead by then.

[Ewok]

On the charger now, it was down to 10.6 when I got to the boat today. I'll let it charge and watch it overnight. When it gets cooler out tonight I'll investigate the float switch on the bilge pump but if my bilge has been dry and the pump has been running its probably burned up right? I do not hear the pump or anything doing anything on the boat when the batteries were connected and all the switches were off.

I'll disconnect the bilge pump and put the battery back in tomorrow morning and see if it holds its charge for 24 hrs. If it does then I get to replace the bilge pump :-(

[chpthril]

On the charger now, it was down to 10.6 when I got to the boat today. I'll let it charge and watch it overnight. When it gets cooler out tonight I'll investigate the float switch on the bilge pump but if my bilge has been dry and the pump has been running its probably burned up right? I do not hear the pump or anything doing anything on the boat when the batteries were connected and all the switches were off.

I'll disconnect the bilge pump and put the battery back in tomorrow morning and see if it holds its charge for 24 hrs. If it does then I get to replace the bilge pump :-(

You've either got a bad battery or about a 5A draw bringing the battery down overnight.

Does the volt meter you have also read amp/current draw? If so, set it in amp mode and put it in between the pos cable and the pos post, with the neg hooked up, and see if it shows a draw.

[Ewok]

Just pulled the battery off the charger and watched the voltage drop on my voltmeter. The battery read 12.5 when I disconnected the charger but the volts just continued to decreased to 11v in about 10min after disconnect. I'll take it to napa again today and get a new battery.

I have an extra deep cycle battery I can hook up to the boat and I can look at the amp discharge if there is any.

At least this hobby keeps you busy, no matter how much money you spend your always running around doing little things keeping the boat running, good thing I love it.

[Ewok]

Determined it's probably not the autobilge. The regular switch turns the bilge pump on/off so the pump is still good, although it's only a 500gph pump, pretty small for this size boat. I hooked up a spare battery in the starting battery position and the autobilge did not turn on. However, I pulled as many panels as I could without taking off the floor and I couldn't find the float switch. On my old boat it was right next to the pump but I couldn't see it. Anyone know where it is mounted in the RZ2?

[chpthril]

Determined it's probably not the autobilge. The regular switch turns the bilge pump on/off so the pump is still good, although it's only a 500gph pump, pretty small for this size boat. I hooked up a spare battery in the starting battery position and the autobilge did not turn on. However, I pulled as many panels as I could without taking off the floor and I couldn't find the float switch. On my old boat it was right next to the pump but I couldn't see it. Anyone know where it is mounted in the RZ2?

It's float-switch/pump assembly.

[Ewok]

It's float-switch/pump assembly.

So its all one self contained unit? Sweet! That will make it easier to change out when I need to because its really not that hard to reach. The bilge pump was directly under the engine on my last boat, very difficult to reach.

Thanks for all the great info/advice.

[Ewok]

The battery charger came today and I'm thinking about the best way to mount it. There is a warning placard on the battery panel cover that says to unplug the batteries before charging. That is not the intent of the on-board charger so a buddy told me as long as I had a physical disconnect switch from the battery to the accessories I would be good to go. As I understand it, the battery On/Off switch in the boat now is only for the starting battery and I would need to add a single pole Perko style on/off switch for the house battery as well. This way I can turn both batteries off in the stern of the boat, plug in the charger and be good to go, does this sound right to the experts? Thanks

[chpthril]

The battery charger came today and I'm thinking about the best way to mount it. There is a warning placard on the battery panel cover that says to unplug the batteries before charging. That is not the intent of the on-board charger so a buddy told me as long as I had a physical disconnect switch from the battery to the accessories I would be good to go. As I understand it, the battery On/Off switch in the boat now is only for the starting battery and I would need to add a single pole Perko style on/off switch for the house battery as well. This way I can turn both batteries off in the stern of the boat, plug in the charger and be good to go, does this sound right to the experts? Thanks

No worries, that is more of a CYA because some large heavy duty type shop chargers can actually put out a high voltage level when placed on high. your on-board charger will not.

[Ewok]

Thanks chpthril

[majestic]

I just turn my on/off switch to off never had any issues. I mounted mine to the back of the removable panel in front of the batteries. When I charge I just open the door lay the panel on the locker floor and let it charge.

[Ewok]

Here are some pics from the install of the battery switch and the charger. I took chpthrils advice and added the switch to cutoff the negative cables going to house battery. There was a ground cable going from the starting battery to the house battery and I put the switch on that cable as well. To sum it all up, I have the return cable from the electrical system and the ground cable from the starting battery going to post number 1 on the Perko switch. Then the common switch from the Perko goes back to the negative terminal on the house battery. Turning the switch off cuts the flow to the ground on the engine block and the battery and turns off ALL of the accessories. I mounted the battery charger to the compartment cover opposite the batteries. I still need to add a little length to the positive lead on the starting battery bank charger but other than that its a perfect fit.