Taps Hydraulic Pump Motor

[rphill1]

The hydraulic motor, or the switch, on my TAP's system apparently stuck in the up position and burnt up the motor. After spending $450 to have the motor replaced, the exact same thing happened again nine months later. Incidentally, with the TAP's on the full up position the boat will not go over 18MPH with out porpoising (bouncing up and down) so badly that you must reduce your speed to continue on, rendering my boat useless.

Has anyone else experienced the same problem and can anyone provide me with information regarding the cause. I hate to replace the motor once again, only to be in the same position I'm in now.

Is it possible that moisture is getting into the TAP's throttle switch and engaging the motor?

Rocky

[scottie4421]

I'm wondering if you have a short in the throttle. Check out the following post for more info:

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ht=taps+wiring

[Banks]

you need to get it all replaced including the throttle i had the same problem and went through 4 taps motors until finaly changing everything out

[Tige M.D.]

sounds like a bad switch to me? maybe after replacing the switch you can have a fuse put in line so it will pop before the the motor does.

[rphill1]

Okay, I did a little research today and I discovered that I’m having an entirely different problem with the TAPS system than before. Last time, one of the four wires leading to the motor was burnt and the motor was burnt-up as well. Now, the motor seems to run normally when the switch is positioned for the up position. When the up switch is depressed, the motor runs making a high shrill “hydraulic motor” type sound similar to what you would hear on an outboard motor trim.

However when the switch is pressed for down, the motor makes some noise but seems to barely be running. It sound the motor makes is extremely quiet and barely makes any sound at all, and obviously the trim plate isn’t moving. I check the reservoir for fluid and it was slightly low. Filling the reservoir made no changes or impact on performance.

Do these hydraulic systems need to be bled if they are ever run low on fluid? Is it possible that one of the two solenoid valves is bad, only allowing the motor to only pump fluid one direction? Any expertise out there is appreciated.

Rocky

[Tige M.D.]

sounds like your solenoid quite. check to see if there is power to the green wire. check it at the solenoid. if there is power then the solenoid is bad. those pumps have a 5 year warranty. call you dealer or call bennett. they are pretty easy to change.
and they are self bleeding and priming.

[rphill1]

That was my take on the situation as well, but it good to hear it from a pro. Thank you.

Hey as a test, what if I were to unscrew and switch the two solenoid positions on the pump? A side to side trade-out. Would this result in the good solenoid running the pump in the opposite direction, therefore lowering the tab rather than raising the tab? This would be very convenient since I could lower my trim-tab and use my boat while waiting on the new part.

[Tige M.D.]

it would be a good idea if the system worked that way
there is only one solenoid. the pump pushes fluid into the cylinders against spring pressure. the spring pressure pushes the fluid back into the pump via the solenoid valve. you can get just a solenoid rebuild kit from bennett. the last # i had for them is 954/427-1400.

[rphill1]

Okay, I’ve done a little troubleshooting and I’ve discovered the problem. There’s a short in the wires leading from the throttle switch to the hydraulic pump motor. I have power coming through the Blue and Yellow wires, but none coming through the Red or Green. I ran a jumper wire direct from the battery to two of the wires at the motor’s plug and successfully lowered the tab by bypassing the switch, therefore the motor is functioning properly……..and that’s good news. J

I’ve read Eric Korbas’ informative post detailing a step-by-step approach to correcting the problem. However, I’m considering replacing the entire wiring harness, and additionally installing a new dash-mounted rocker-type control switch. If the throttle set-up has proven the be Tige’s “Achilles heel”, why not eliminate this from possibly happening again by utilizing a TAPS switch that doesn’t involve the confinement and movement of the throttle assembly, which is what is wearing out the wires? Yeah sure, I lose the ability to adjust the speed and plate position simultaneously, but maybe I can live with it.

RP

Bennett Single Rocker Switch Control
RS1001HL MSRP $39.00

Bennett 4-Color Wiring Harness 22”
WH 1000 MSRP $31.00

[TeamAllen]

The original TAPS came with a switch on the dash. The switch in the throttle was added around 1996. I guess you could go back to one. I was under the impression someone from TIGE Watersports in Corona thought of the idea to put it in the throttle.

[Tige M.D.]

that is true. bob metcaf. now ownes and operates metcraft( towers and accessories)