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Replacing the Oil pan drain tube - Banjo bolt?

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    Replacing the Oil pan drain tube - Banjo bolt?

    So my oil drain tube has dry rotted and is now leaking oil from out of the oil pan. Glad it isn't a main seal but it appears that access to the banjo bolt is very, very difficult. Might be 1/2 - 3/4 inch from the banjo head to the hull.

    Can anyone tell me if the motor must be raised in order to properly remove the banjo bolt & replace the oil drain tube?


    If so, what a PITA! Talk about a design flaw. I'm thinkin I might just cut the tube near the banjo and cap it. What an effort if the motor has to be raised unless I'm missing something?????

    #2
    Thought that was my problem too, ended up having a couple of pinholes in the oil pan. Anyways it's a major pain in the arse to get out and in. Just go to Napa and get a pan bolt. Most dipstick tubes have a threads for a garden hose, and it's just as easy to suck the oil out that way. Just buy a pump at west marine for 50bucks and be done with it. The replacement for the banjo bolt and washers and hose is around 90 bucks, and really really really sucks to change.

    But no you don't have to lift your engine, just have really small hands, arms, fingers and nails.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by bobbysky View Post

      But no you don't have to lift your engine, just have really small hands, arms, fingers and nails.

      Are you positive that banjo bolt has enough room to be pull out completely? I can imagine getting it loose but I'm afraid there isn't quite the clearance to clear all the threads when unscrewing it. Seems to be less than 1" of clearance and I'd guess the M12 banjo is an inch long.

      I already have a oil sucker and have used it exclusively. Never used the drain tube but previous owner had the boat sitting outside over a winter.....water left in bilge area...rotted the tube. Sucks.

      BTW, hose assembly is $57. I may just cut it and cap it but would prefer doing it once it is removed so I can ensure it is capped properly.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by customfab View Post
        So my oil drain tube has dry rotted and is now leaking oil from out of the oil pan. Glad it isn't a main seal but it appears that access to the banjo bolt is very, very difficult. Might be 1/2 - 3/4 inch from the banjo head to the hull.

        Can anyone tell me if the motor must be raised in order to properly remove the banjo bolt & replace the oil drain tube?


        If so, what a PITA! Talk about a design flaw. I'm thinkin I might just cut the tube near the banjo and cap it. What an effort if the motor has to be raised unless I'm missing something?????

        "I feel sorry for people that don't drink, when they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're gonna feel all day" - Frank Sinatra

        Comment


          #5
          I was able to get the banjo bolt out of mine, no problem. It was getting it back in that sucked. I ended up just using a plug.

          What boat do you have?

          Comment


            #6
            2001 2300V

            Comment


              #7
              Just to let everyone know, bobbysky was indeed correct. I removed the banjo with only 1/2" of clearance. Haven't tried to get it back on but it is possible for sure. For now, I'm simply pluggin the hole. Tubing was cracked but didn't appear to be complete through the wall. I hope I don't have a leak in the oil pan! Find out later 2day if the oil leak is resolved.

              Oh, I did notice one of the banjo washers which acts as an o-ring was cracked so it is possible it was a source of the oil leak.

              Just crossing my fingers at this point.

              Comment


                #8
                keep them crossed, everything you have described was exactly what happened to me. I have the same boat but an 02, and my washers were cracked on the banjo bolt. Tried for weeks different plugs thinking it was leaking from drain hole, until I finally spotted the pinhole in the oil pan. I used one of those inspection mirrors with a light on it, might want to try that out so you can really see whats going on down there.

                I would say if it feels all rusty down there you probably have a rust through. When I finally got my motor out of the boat, the v-drive was super rusty underneath. Wire brushed the whole bottom of the engine, then repainted, it's as good as new now.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Push comes to shove, buy a UV oil leak light kit. Add the dye, run the boat for the weekend, use the 12V light and glassed to trace the leak back to the source. "CSI Boat Ramp"
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Old (2009) post but the closest I can find to addressing my latest issue... My subject is a 1996 Pre 2002 WT

                    There was a fuel leak and the boat sat for a while with a bath of gas and water in the bilge.
                    Now I have an oil leak, perhaps a leaky oil drain hose (I hope) or a hole in the oil pan (hope not).

                    Does anyone have any suggestions on getting the banjo-bolt oil drain tube off the oil pan? There is very very limited space.

                    Plan is to just install a hard plug and then check for leaks.

                    Is there a special tool or wrench that can help? Any ideas at all would be great.

                    Thank you!

                    Comment

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