Sub amp

[FBCoach]

I bought a used 2007 22ve. It has 2 cadence amps. The sub amp green light fades in and out. During this I lose the sub. I have checked the gains and ground wire. It has its own power wire. the turn on switch is bridged from the other amp. The sub seems to be hooked up correctly. The only thing I am not sure about is on the power wire next to the battery is a little gizmo. It says "shortstop 24vdc p21 40a". I have no idea what these are, but could it be the problem? The amp that is driving everything else never cuts off.

[chpthril]

Just googled it, its a brand of circuit breakers! Its a 40 amp breaker and that sounds a little lite, what amp do you have. It also looks like an auto-reset, if so, that could be why it go in and out.

[FBCoach]

I will get the amp info tomorrow. I remember it is a cadence 1750 I think. I know it is a 1700's. I will check it out tomorrow. It is a 4 channel. It has 1 speaker wire on the possitive of channel 1 and the negative of channel 2. This is repeated on 3 and 4 and they are connected to both sides of a wet sounds sub.

[chpthril]

I will get the amp info tomorrow. I remember it is a cadence 1750 I think. I know it is a 1700's. I will check it out tomorrow. It is a 4 channel. It has 1 speaker wire on the possitive of channel 1 and the negative of channel 2. This is repeated on 3 and 4 and they are connected to both sides of a wet sounds sub.

Xa175.4?

[FBCoach]

It is a cadence zrs 7504.

[chpthril]

Cant find the specs or owners manual for that amp, but I have the ZRS7000D powering my Wet Sounds XXX and it's fused at 90A.

If you get a chance, look for the amp's internal fuses that will be plugged into the end of the amp where the power and ground wires attach. Add those up and that's the size breaker you need in there.

[FBCoach]

It has two 30's. Do you think this could be the problem? Do I need these shortstop things, or will the fuses on the amp take care of it?

[chpthril]

It has two 30's. Do you think this could be the problem? Do I need these shortstop things, or will the fuses on the amp take care of it?

Ok, that could be, here's why: That amp is capable of pulling 60A's of current, hence the two 30A fuses, but the circuit breaker installed for that amp is only a 40A. On the hard notes, that breaker could be tripping, causing the amp to turn off. Being that the breaker is an auto-reset breaker, it resets itself after the overload is gone and the amp turns back on. The 2 fuses in the amp are there to protect the amp, the breaker is needed near the battery to protect the power cable as it makes it's 20 ft run to the amps

If nothing else obvious jumps out at you, then I would consider swapping out that breaker for a 60-70 amp manual-reset marine rated circuit breaker. www.waytekwire.com part # - 46871 for a 60A

[philwsailz]

If you have an auto-reset citcuit breaker in your boat, replace it. The sooner the better... The breaker next to the battery is there to save your power wiring in the event of a short; to prevent a fire or explosion, which could destroy your boat, or even injure you or your passengers... Auto reset breakers remove the risk only momentarily,then turn the circuit back on to resume sparking or heating...

This may or may not be related to the amp turning on and off, but regardless, replace it. You can use a MANUAL RESET circuit breaker of 60 amps or higher, not to exceed 90 amps. You can also use a similarly rated fuse. For either the breaker or fuse, try to find one that is rated to SAE J1171 for use in confined areas where fuel vapors may be present.

Despite the fact that you still have fuses in the amp, you want over-current protection at the battery, so that the circuit will opn in the event of an accidental short-circuit.

Phil
Kicker

[FBCoach]

Could the size of my power cable make this happen? I don't know if it is 8 or 4.

[chpthril]

Could the size of my power cable make this happen? I don't know if it is 8 or 4.

I dont think so, but you'll know when you replace the breaker JK. Think of it as a chain, right now, the breaker is the weakest link.

[FBCoach]

Thanks for all the help. This is all confusing to me.

[chpthril]

No problem, theres always someone around to help. If you do a search in the "Off Topic" section, you'll see all the stuff I know chit about

[FBCoach]

I found this info.

ZRS-7504
4 CHANNEL HIGH POWER STEREO AMPLIFIER

SPECIFICATIONS:
•4 Ohm RMS Power: 4 x 75 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
•2 Ohm RMS Power: 4 x 150 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
•4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 2 x 300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
•Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz
•Channel Seperation: >65 dB
•S/N Ratio: >100 db
•Damping Factor: >200 @ 100Hz
•Minimum THD: <0.044%
•Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts
•Dimensions: 11.5" x 9.4" x 2.4"
FEATURES:

•High Speed Mosfet Power Supply
•Bi-Polar Japanese Sanken Output Devices
•Copper Rail PCB Architecture
•24 dB Crossover Circuitry
•Fully Adjustable Low/High Pass Crossover
•High Pass Crossover: 50Hz - 500Hz
•Low Pass Crossover: 50Hz - 150Hz
•Bass Boost Equalization: 0-18db @ 45Hz
•Lucite Encapsulated Large 8 Gauge Terminals
•Soft Start Mute & Delay
•Adjustable Phase Control

[FBCoach]

I turned the gain down quite a bit and it has stopped cutting out. The amp has 8 gauge power wire. It doesnt sound as powerfull, but at least it is not cutting out. I am going to get the breakers switched, do you think I still need to re-run the power.

Also, the trouble light was comming on, I just couldn't see it good enough.