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    #16
    As requested I have posted pictures of the back of the tower where it meets the boat. Just to clarify the plate is fiberglassed in? the plate is threaded thus no need for a bolt on the bottom? Would it negitively effect my tower if I was to put some type of washer and or plate with a bolt on the bottom? Is this needed?
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      #17
      Well there is one sure way to find out. Yank up on the tower foot and see if it budges. Or try to tighten the Allen bolt down, if not threaded, it should just spin.
      "I want to know God's thoughts, the rest are just details"

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        #18
        Originally posted by Kurby View Post
        As requested I have posted pictures of the back of the tower where it meets the boat. Just to clarify the plate is fiberglassed in? the plate is threaded thus no need for a bolt on the bottom? Would it negitively effect my tower if I was to put some type of washer and or plate with a bolt on the bottom? Is this needed?
        You are good to go! A nut and washer/plate would just be redundant, but no negative effects.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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          #19
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          3/8 allen socket in the bolt head and torque it to 22lb/ft.



          When pulling from the tower, the load wants to pull up on the front, and push down on the rear, so not as much load.



          I've posted some, let me see if I can find the link. I just PM'd it to someone, but dont think I saved the PM.
          Here you go Chpthril
          http://tigeowners.com/forum/showpost...39&postcount=2

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            #20
            When I wired the e-series tower we could see that the plate was threaded when we fished wire.

            If you think you need a nut and washer I think it is overkill. I would use the stock bolt and LockTite it once torqued up.

            When we replaced the E-series I destroyed we had to have new thru holes drilled thru the glassed-in plate. So now I have a Sampson Plate epoxied to the glassed-in plate and a thru bolt with locknut and washer. This is the same for the front mounts also.

            I was surprised that Sampson having patterns of the 20V that they would have used the same mounting holes. They elected to add a backing plate, a locknut and washer. Locktite was also used on mounting feet. The attached link picture shows the Sampson Mount thru bolted the Tige backing plate as viewed from the outside.

            http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...y/DSCN0041.jpg

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              #21
              Chp
              Thanks for the detailed description.
              I have a Phatbody tower, and it uses studs for all four.
              David W.
              Tige, it's a way of life!

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                #22
                Originally posted by whitlock87 View Post
                Chp
                Thanks for the detailed description.
                I have a Phatbody tower, and it uses studs for all four.
                David W.
                No problem. That was a good catch and sharp eye on your part. If that had been a 4 stud tower like yours, that would have been a problem.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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