Ballast pump connectors

[Waterski-Rebel]

I am trying to figure out what path to take, and chptril has been great in PM's, but it's not fair to bombard him with a ton of questions, so I thought I would post this to the group.

With the tsunami 1200's, I can't find a 1 1/8 --> 1" barbed connector. I did find one that goes from 1 1/8" --> 3/4 of an inch. It is the rule 56-3104 69 on this page.

http://www.dmpmarine.com/proofs/DMP08Plumbing.pdf

If I drop down to 3/4 of an inch for the tubing, will that effect the flow rate of the pump, or will I still get the 1200 GPH rate?

3/4 of an inch would be much easier to deal with, but I don't want to give up too much speed to make this easy.

[xpjim1]

Read my thread. You use 1 1/4 inch hose directly over the threads and get a 1 1/4 inch to 1 inch adapter. Thats the best I could find.

[Waterski-Rebel]

Read my thread. You use 1 1/4 inch hose directly over the threads and get a 1 1/4 inch to 1 inch adapter. Thats the best I could find.

Sorry, I missed that the first time, I just re-read it and found it.

Now for a dumb question. Couldn't I use the 1 1/8 multiflex (or bilgeflex) and stay with that size? I'm going to drop the pumps in the water, not build them in (for now).

On the drain side, I see a downfall, where I can't go through the hull, but there might be a 1 1/8 through the hull connection out there someplace, or I could convert that when necessary.

What aobut a checkvalve, do I need one, if I keep the pump above the sack when I'm not using it? If so, this would be another reason to convert to a different size tube too.

[xpjim1]

Sorry, I missed that the first time, I just re-read it and found it.

Now for a dumb question. Couldn't I use the 1 1/8 multiflex (or bilgeflex) and stay with that size? I'm going to drop the pumps in the water, not build them in (for now).

On the drain side, I see a downfall, where I can't go through the hull, but there might be a 1 1/8 through the hull connection out there someplace, or I could convert that when necessary.

What aobut a checkvalve, do I need one, if I keep the pump above the sack when I'm not using it? If so, this would be another reason to convert to a different size tube too.

I went with the 1 inch hose because the 1 1/8 fittings could not be found. It was easier to do the automated system that way.

You can find the 1 1/8 thru hulls for the drains but none of my system could run the 1 1/8. The fittings that go into the fatsacs only come in 1 inch or 3/4 inch so 1 1/8 is not really an option


Check valves can be avoided if you are manually going to fill and empty. It all depends on what kind of system you build. There was a thread where someone built a cool over the side fill and drain system with a valve. I cant remember his name but will look for it later tonight. I think it would be perfect for you

[xpjim1]

Look in this thread for posts from Big Wave. He made a prettys slick non integrated ballast system
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5610

[Waterski-Rebel]

Hmm... That is interesting. I was going to do something similar and go with a hose to drain, and a hose to fill. I was eventually going to take the drain hose and drain it through the side of the hull. I also plan on running the wires to my dash, and installing some switches for the pumps too.

I think I'd like to stick with the 4 hose idea, so I can eventually drain through the hull, now I just need to figure out which fittings and hoses I need.