Ballast Gate Valve

[NHarp1]

I am researching a ballast system for my Z1. I am trying to figure out what set-up works best considering potential gate valve problems, pumps not priming and thru-hull placement. Here is my question, where is the best location for water source? Should a forward placement scoop, rear facing scoop, mushroom thru-hull in the hull or mushroom in the transom be used? Second question is, is an electronic gate valve something to avoid? Are there seizing up issues or is it a rare concern? If you stay away from a electric gate valve, do you just use a manual shut of valve for emergencies or do you have to open and close every time you want to fill the bags? I plan to use check valves on the fill lines before they enter the bag to avoid any water loss once bags are filled. What stops water entering the bags when you want the bags to stay empty? Use a transom water entry? Ok, too many questions but I think you see my area of concern.

[lee]

Wow, you will get alot of responses because every one on here has the perfect system.

[jake's02-22i]

pumps

It kind of depends on what kind of pumps you use. Most people use mushroom thru-hull from the bottom of the boat because it doesn’t push water into the bags when you don't want it. Then you don’t need a gate valve if you have impellor pumps.

[dogbert]

I installed ballast puppies, which are self-priming and don't really need gate valves. However, I did install manual gate valves that I can reach by lifting the engine cover on my 21v. I had to go with 3 individual thru hulls in the transom due to space considerations. The pros on this set up is that I can empty while driving. The con is that I have to be at idle speed or stationary to fill. It isn't all that bad because I usually top off my ballast whenever I pick up a rider. Overall I'm pretty happy with my install, but you do have other options. We've got about 150 hours on the boat since the install and everything's working just fine. I will probably cement the quick disconnect fittings because they leak where they screw into the bag (not in the actual quick disconnect fitting).

Here's my thread on my install:

Automatic Ballast for 2100v Limited

[juniors]

Here are some pics of what I did. First I went with a thru hull with a front facing scoop, thru the hull to a brass T, I capped the top off (for future use i.e. more ballast or a water cannon) went out the side of the T to a 90 then to a pvc ball valve (for catrostrophic falure) then it went to an electric gate valve, then to my pump assy. I have been running this for 3 years and have not had a problem yet.

[NHarp1]

Another question: Has anyone ever heard of using water sprinkler 1 inch in-line (solenoid) valves on your fill lines in place of any gate valve or check valves? I understand with scoop thru-hull, you can have bag issus unintentionally filling up. The sprinkler valve
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...1&ddkey=Search
would essentially eliminate the need for the expensive gate valve and 2 in line check valves. Anything I am missing? The sprinkler vavles could get installed on the fill lines anywhere after the pump so space is not an issue. Anyone heard of this?
Thanks

[lee]

Is it 12v, 24v or 110v?

[chpthril]

Reversible impeller type pumps would solve all the issues your trying to work out - no need for a gate valve, no need for check-valves on the fill side, thru-hull mushroom would allow filling and draining while under way with little to no adverse effects. The only down side is cost.

[NHarp1]

You are right. Maybe I should just go with the reversable pumps. It would eliminate most of my concerns. Just replacing out impellers now and then. Would you still run your water intake from the bottom of the boat with a brass mushroom?

[chpthril]

You are right. Maybe I should just go with the reversable pumps. It would eliminate most of my concerns. Just replacing out impellers now and then. Would you still run your water intake from the bottom of the boat with a brass mushroom?

Yep!

[TigeDuner]

Skip the electronic gate valve. Use a manual brass ball valve. You will find that you will not be using it much.

[dogbert]

Skip the electronic gate valve. Use a manual brass ball valve. You will find that you will not be using it much.

x2

[SPBFAN]

Skip the electronic gate valve. Use a manual brass ball valve. You will find that you will not be using it much.

Yes, you will be glad you went with the manual valve

x2

X3

You are right. Maybe I should just go with the reversable pumps. It would eliminate most of my concerns. Just replacing out impellers now and then. Would you still run your water intake from the bottom of the boat with a brass mushroom?

You will be glad you went with the Ballast puppy's. The system is much less complex and easier to install, and maintain.

[chpthril]

Just so no one gets the wrong idea about the electric gate-valve: DONT rely on one as a safety shut-off, you need a manual valve for that! The elec. gate valve should only be used for stopping unwanted filling/draining even, though a system can be designed and built with out one

[dogbert]

BTW, one way to minimize the unwanted filling/emptying, regardless of what pumps you use is to have your thru hull used for filling (and emptying) mounted on the transom instead of using a scoop mounted to the hull. Depending on the orientation of the scoop (facing forward or backward), it will either force water into the system or suck water out of the system while you're driving, especially if you use any thru hull over 1" in diameter. If you use multiple 1" diameter thru hulls on the hull, you really don't need scoops.

SPBFAN has the system pretty well figured out for the newer boats and I largely relied on his recommendations for my system. We did have to adapt the intake/drain aspect of the system due to space considerations on my boat which is older. If you're thinking of doing a system, I'd contact him directly.