My Ballast System

[xpjim1]

For the gate valve. A little push up to open the gate to feed the fill pumps. After filling a little push down to close the gate so the bags do not keep filling while under way. This is if you are using aerator pumps. If you are using the reversible pumps this is not needed

[spharis]

What will the 1 momentary be for ?

brain fart maybe, but dpdt and spdt mean what ?

That really isn't necessary if you are not using the factory panel, and buy decent pumps.

SPST - single pole single throw (one input, one output...a traditional switch)
SPDT - single pole double throw (one input, two outputs)
DPDT - double pole double throw (two inputs, two outputs)

[spharis]

I could not find printed actuators to match my switches. I ordered these from Lee to use. The picture is not my dash as my actuators are slightly different. The switches you will need one momentary (on)-off-(on) DPDT and 3 regular rockers on-off-on either spdt or dpdt

Yeah the printed are a custom job....

I think you have your switch requirements backward. The ballast fills should be momentary, and the arm should be toggle, right? I wasn't aware the ballast switches were on offs.......I think I'd rather have momentary type. Seems like the coil on the fill gate would need to stay energized to stay open, and close when relaxed. Who knows though, Tige' could have gone through the trouble of making a latch circuit there, or they used a latching gate.....those are expensive though. I would have wired it so that whenever a fill switch was engaged, the gate opened, and then when it was off it could close again. Less to remember that way, and it is automatic.

If you want to really get fancy, I can show you how to build latching relay blocks so you get auto fill and empty by just pushing the buttons. You will need a level sender for each sac though.

[talltigeguy]

Spharis,

Doesn't momentary mean that it only moves when the switch is pushed on, and the switch then moves back to its normal position when you let go? I think that is why he wants a momentary for the gate valve. You wouldn't want to have to hold the switch to get the ballast pumps to work.

Help me with the proper electrical terms.

[xpjim1]

Here are pictures I took from other DIYer's
The 1st is lighted DPDT for the gate valve
The 2nd is lighted DPDT for the fill and drain pumps

[spharis]

Right, momentary requires you to hold it down. I think i would prefer that so i could release it on the fly and not have to toggle it back the other way. Either way it's the same setup.....just a preference thing.

[Moki]

Unfortunately, my switches are not 3 way, they are push button on/off



I don't have a lot of space on my dash and will probably mount them on the driver side panel.

[xpjim1]

Just help me!!! Right now i do not think I could handle fancy.

Luckily wiring will be towards the end. I have ordered 90% of the parts. Family and friends were nice enough to give me some gift certificates for some of the parts.

Hopefully the thru hulls come before saturday so I can start drilling the drain and overflow holes in the boat.

[spharis]

Here are pictures I took from other DIYer's
The 1st is lighted DPDT for the gate valve
The 2nd is lighted DPDT for the fill and drain pumps

Yeah you just wire your switches as required. Those diagrams you can toss. You just wire as your switch is required. If you want to wire the way those switches are, then you will not be using realys, and you will be running 12 wires to the pumps. I think you should look into using relays near the pumps.....it makes for a much much cleaner install.

The valve is obviously a latching type. Are you gong to use a valve, or are you going to use reversible pumps?

[chpthril]

Yeah the printed are a custom job....

I think you have your switch requirements backward. The ballast fills should be momentary, and the arm should be toggle, right? I wasn't aware the ballast switches were on offs.......I think I'd rather have momentary type. Seems like the coil on the fill gate would need to stay energized to stay open, and close when relaxed. Who knows though, Tige' could have gone through the trouble of making a latch circuit there, or they used a latching gate.....those are expensive though. I would have wired it so that whenever a fill switch was engaged, the gate opened, and then when it was off it could close again. Less to remember that way, and it is automatic.

If you want to really get fancy, I can show you how to build latching relay blocks so you get auto fill and empty by just pushing the buttons. You will need a level sender for each sac though.

I do know that the 07's have toggles because 1 got turned on while i was standing in front of the outlet and it pissed all over me.

I dont remember an "arm" type switch either, unless it was on the dash.

I think the way to go would be to have the gate valve powered off the fill pump switches so you kill two birds w/1 stone (providing the gate is self closing when de-energized)

Having little experience in this, I would have thought that these pumps would not allow flow in either direction when off thus no need for a gate valve

[talltigeguy]

I would use momentary for just the gate valve, you don't want to have to hold down three switches for 5-7 minutes to fill or empty the bags. Are we talking about the same thing?

I sometimes forget to turn mine off, but luckily the type of pumps used are a little forgiving when run dry.

Chpthrill,
they do allow flow under pressure. The turbine or fan inside the pump that pushes the water rotates freely when there is no power to the switch. It flows better forward than back, but can even flow backwards.

[xpjim1]

I am using a RV Gate Valve like Rival does. It runs on a momentary switch so I just kept it the same. The regular rockers for the fat sacs will work. When water starts coming out the overflows, just flip the switch off. I do not want to hold the 3 switches down while filling.

[spharis]

Unfortunately, my switches are not 3 way, they are push button on/off



I don't have a lot of space on my dash and will probably mount them on the driver side panel.

Someone had posted questions about these before, and I asked him some troubleshooting info about them. Those are a whole 'nother can o worms, but they can be made to work too, although you so not have enough free banks.

[spharis]

I would use momentary for just the gate valve, you don't want to have to hold down three switches for 5-7 minutes to fill or empty the bags. Are we talking about the same thing?

Yes same thing.

My previous post made the assumption the gate was not a latching style, as those are pricey. the latching styles are a yes on the momentary for sure.

On the fills, I think I would prefer momentary, but I don't know as I've never had ballast before I thought you would be able to fill faster than that.

[spharis]

I am using a RV Gate Valve like Rival does. It runs on a momentary switch so I just kept it the same. The regular rockers for the fat sacs will work. When water starts coming out the overflows, just flip the switch off. I do not want to hold the 3 switches down while filling.

Cool....I have an understanding of what you want to do then....just holla when you get ready to wire. I do think you should consider wiring in relays to your pumps triggers though. Running 3 wires and some jumpers by the pumps vs. running 12 wires terminating to individual pumps.....hard to beat.

On the RV gate, it is a reversible latching motor. Triggering voltage one way willlatch it to open until it fully opens and breaks the latch. The wires are flipped on the switch so it closes in the same manner.

The little "l" on the ground in the photos you posted is for the lamp in in the switch.