My Ballast System

[xpjim1]

After doing much research, and going against what my dealer says, I am going to do my own ballast system. My dealer, a great guy, wanted to sell me and install the Rival system. He's come a long way as he tried to talk talltigeguy out of doing his. I came close but decided that this should be a fun and interesting project. I took inspiration from talltigeguy and several posts on wakeworld and wakeboarder.

My old philosophy was to work some OT and hire someone. The new me says take a chance.

I created a spreadsheet with everthing I needed and sent it around to a few people. i ordered a few of the pumps and some fittings to ensure all the hoses would fit. (conflicting info). Rather spend a few dollars and order the bare minimum to make sure everything goes together before placing the large order. The pump and fittings came today. Everthing goes together like a charm.

I will be using 6 tsunami 1200's 3 to fill and 3 to drain. All 1 inch hose and fittings.

As the weeks progess I will update this thread. Its amazing the discounts that can be found on the web. The hoses and stainless steel thru hulls are coming from the same place. I had my wife, son and I set up google checkout accounts. I divided that order into 3 and we got $10.00 off each order for being 1st time users.

Wakeside where I am getting the pumps and fittings offer $25 off if you review a product. I reviewed a product and a $25 coupon was in my email. Divided that order into 3 parts and the 3rd order used my 5% bonus points earned on the previous orders.

I will be asking advice on electrical when I get that far. I hate electricity.

I included all parts I would need and upgrades in some materials over rivals system. Comparing apples to apples I should be saving about $300

Wish me luck

[NICKYPOO]

I wish you luck. Take and post lots of pics.

[Moki]

That is awesome! I will be watching your progress with baited or should I say ballasted breath, as I want to add my own ballast system as well. Sent you a PM.

[spharis]

So you going to use (on) off (on) rockers, and a relay block to drive everything. I know that's how I would do it. Keeps you from having to run a ton of grounds.

[Original Wing Nut]

I'm wishing you luck. I'm with Moki I want to do my own. It'll be good to hear your experience before we jump in with both feet. Thanks Jim

[xpjim1]

spharis

As I said this was an area that I am going to need help. My original thought was to use 3 rockers with on-off-on for the 6 tsunami. In my dash I already have one for the tower lights forward and aft, I was going to buy 2 more rockers and replace the following rockers in the dash (shower and accessory). I figured these were already wired so i would need just to go to the pump. If I got SPDT switches I was told I could tie all the negatives at the switches and pumps into one. Or if I got dpdt switches, i would just run the pos and negative to each pump.

The gate valve I was planning on a momentary toggle (on)-off-(on) and have no clue where to wire it from.

Thiose are my thoughts which are preliminary since I do not know squat about electricity

[spharis]

If you wanted to go without relays, then you can tie all the hot to the same wire switch side, a single ground to the switch switch side. Run a ground to each pump, pump side. and either a single hot to the pumps, or make a ciruit out of each switch, just a way to complete the circuit when the switch is pushed.....theres a bazillion ways to do it....some afer than others. I would recommend the use of relays.

I can make a diagram (very quick one) if I get a chance to show you how you can use relays and only have to run a couple of wires to the battery, or a switched source.

[chpthril]

Looking good Jim. I'm not far behind you on compiling my parts list. I think I will go w/ the factory ballast switch block from Tige as it will match the existing switches.

[spharis]

chpthril, you can order matching switches from mouser.com

It is the Contura line with the exchangable actuators....you can match them, and still have them custom if you want. There are many styles to choose from.

http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.c...switch__20.asp
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1346.pdf

[chpthril]

chpthril, you can order matching switches from mouser.com

It is the Contura line with the exchangable actuators....you can match them, and still have them custom if you want. There are many styles to choose from.

http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.c...switch__20.asp
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1346.pdf

Thanks, but I left out that I wanted the angle mount face plate too so it will all look factory.

[spharis]

xp, here's a quick diagram with relays. You could swap it and trigger the hot as well. Just reverse the wiring. Using relay banks kind of keeps everything together. You could also just run loops to everything with the switches inline. I prefer the use of relays in everything I do for cleanliness and traceability. You can also clean everything up this way because you can use conductor round cable for the switch to relay wire. Find a roll of 6 conductor round (like phone line type cable) and you only have a 3 wires to run vs. 6-10 because the relay activation is very small current, and you can use very small wire. You might want to add a few more dollars and go with a relay bracket, or even solid state relay assemblies. You may want to fuse the pumps at the battery, and add a diode on the relays.....really not required for the pumps, or in the boat though.

You can get the relays, sockets, dustcovers, etc on this page....real cheap.
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1421.pdf

[Moki]

Darth,
What switches would you order and what relays would you order? Also, do these guys sell a face plate that all of these switches can be mounted in?

Here is a product locator: http://c3pss.carlingtech.com/ProductSelector

Thanks

xp, here's a quick diagram with relays. You could swap it and trigger the hot as well. Just reverse the wiring. Using relay banks kind of keeps everything together. You could also just run loops to everything with the switches inline. I prefer the use of relays in everything I do for cleanliness and traceability. You can also clean everything up this way because you can use conductor round cable for the switch to relay wire. Find a roll of 6 conductor round (like phone line type cable) and you only have a 3 wires to run vs. 6-10 because the relay activation is very small current, and you can use very small wire. You might want to add a few more dollars and go with a relay bracket, or even solid state relay assemblies. You may want to fuse the pumps at the battery, and add a diode on the relays.....really not required for the pumps, or in the boat though.

You can get the relays, sockets, dustcovers, etc on this page....real cheap.
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1421.pdf

[spharis]

I would pick the switch style that matched my other boat switches. Do you have any photos of your dash?

As far as plates, you probably aren't going to find one, but they can be made from a sheet of stainless/aluminum (easier) if you have a drill and a jigsaw with a scroll blade. You could also drop the cash and order a plate from tige.

Relays would just be a standard automotive style relay. You can order the sockets for them as well, so they can all be arranged in a row nice and neat. It makes wiring the jumpers alot easier if you can plug th realys in after the sockets are all mounted.

I would run 6-pin conductor, about a 12AWG+, and a 12AWG - back to the pumps. I would then jumper the ground and positive to the pumps/relays using 16-18AWG. The 6-pin will be color coded, so you can wire the color sets for empty/fill triggers. This will have you only running 3 wires total. If you really want to be fancy you can get the expandable sheathing that all your wires can run inside. I use leftovers from our shop, but I like to either do this or wire tie the length of the cable together before I even begin the install. This way you only have to run the wire to the rear once.

Relays - get them at autozone or anywhere online....standard automotive relay. Order them with the other stuff if you want.

sockets for the relays- you can also get these at radio shack online at a higher price.
http://www.tessco.com/products/displ...o.do?sku=44084


switches
Contura line from Carling. if you are going to use 3 switches you need SPDT - (on) off (on) - I would get the ones with leds, but check the compatible actuator styles to match your boat first. They don't all work with everything. You can see the style I wanted was in incandescent lamp only. The lamp is the shiny part in the photo below.
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine....t=691-V8D2GHNB

Switches look like this.




The styles mouser carries are on this page in outline form near the bottom.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...111006_004.jpg



switch actuators will depend on the style you want, can be found here
I think your boats have the white circles.....so this one will match. If mouser doesn't have the style you need, you can also try digikey, and some other places. I can give you info from my suppliers if you need.
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=691-VVGAC

Contura kind of looks like this.....Mouser does not carry this style, but one close to it.


Assembled in my style.

[xpjim1]

I could not find printed actuators to match my switches. I ordered these from Lee to use. The picture is not my dash as my actuators are slightly different. The switches you will need one momentary (on)-off-(on) DPDT and 3 regular rockers on-off-on either spdt or dpdt. If you get lighted the spdt will have 4 prongs on the back and the DPDT will have seven. I will post those later as they are on the home computer. Waytek wire has a good selection of actuators and switches and appear to be a little less than mouser.

Spharis thanks for the pictures. I will forward some questions later with to regard to relays and fuses

[chpthril]

I could not find printed actuators to match my switches. I ordered these from Lee to use. The switches you will need one momentary (on)-off-(on) DPDT and 3 regular rockers on-off-on either spdt or dpdt. If you get lighted the spdt will have 4 prongs on the back and the DPDT will have seven. I will post those later as they are on the home computer. Waytek wire has a good selection of actuators and switches and appear to be a little less than mouser.

Spharis thanks for the pictures. I will forward some questions later with to regard to relays and fuses

What will the 1 momentary be for ?

brain fart maybe, but dpdt and spdt mean what ?