How to get a perfect wave with taps 3

[Berrymad]

I bought a 2016 RZX last fall and after 30 hours I am still trying to get a good wave on both sides when using the remote. I can get a awesome wave on both sides but not without moving weight around. So, we have been unable to hit the switch and have a perfect wave form on the opposite side without first moving around weight in the boat.
Any pointers on speeds and surf and tap settings would be appreciated. Also, we have extra ballast in back of boat and would like any feedback on ballast set ups that work the best.
Thanks, NB

[Surf406]

Try this
Fill entire boat run Center taps plate at 3-4 ish
Taps 3 surf setting at 1
Speed 11.0 mph give that a try and play around from there

[Mgigs7]

Would love to here updates on this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Surf406]

Il post up some pics soon as I get back into the water weather is definatly not playing n my favor

[Germaine Marine]

Inorder to help you best we need to know whats in the boat... Are you running factory 3000LBS? Are you running PnP 500s in the locker? Lead?

1. If you are running factory hard tank ballast ONLY then you will not achieve a good wave by filling the entire boat. Fill the rears and then fill the fronts to 40%, and report back. If you have an inclinometer which you should still if its a 16, I would aim for 9 degrees of bow rise while underway with roughly 5-7 degrees of list while underway. I achieve this usually by filling both rears full, and then filling the surf side in the bow to 50-75 percent while leaving the non surf side empty.

2. If you are running PnP then the premise remains the same fill the rears, however, more bow weight will be needed to achieve the correct running attitude.

I know I probably sound like a broken record, but every boat I have been in has bled water out the thru hulls, you may not see it at rest but at running speed they are leaking and alot, which makes tuning a consistent wave impossible. If the boat holds water then that is the first major hurdle, the rest will be plate settings and that will be consistent day in and day out. These boats when shored up will crank out the same world class wave every single time all by push button you just have to spend the time making sure the main issues are addressed.

As far as plates are concerned...

Taps 3 has big downward movement settings 15-7 and much more finite movement from 6-1 (15 being all the way stowed, 1 being all the way deployed on the screen) The software has assigned numerical values for the movement, 15-7 was 9 points per if I remember correctly, while 7-5 was only 3 or 4 points and 4-1 was only 1 point or so.

I have had the best waves staying in the 1-4 range. Remember as you drop plate in the water you shove the nose over which can induce the boat going over onto plane. I stay away from that by keeping taps 2 between 3-6 weight depending.

So.... run taps 3 between 1-4 weight depending and run taps 2 3-6 weight depending.

Hope that makes sense, if not you can ring me and Ill be happy to spend some time walking you through it.

Regards,
Jason

[Germaine Marine]

I also will continue to say it..... steel weight has a drastic affect in these boats. The dense weight in a small footprint, really does wonders. I would have a minimum of 300lbs per rear most corner in every boat I owned regardless of model.

[Germaine Marine]

You will be able to dwarf my wave when correctly weighted and I say that with complete confidence...

Below is TheGerman.... He goes 6'4 and this was in 20mph winds

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