Ballast design for 2009 RZ2

[bnixon]

Ok guys,

I am currently jerry rigging my stock 900 lb ballast system to piggy back the 1100 lb fly high sacs I already have from my previous boat just to get something going. I really don't want to put any more money into the stock system and want to design a replacement system.

I could really use some input.

Has anyone removed the stock underfloor tanks and replaced with custom sacs? It seems like having the tanks and additional sacs unnecessarily complicate the system. It seems to my pea brain that eliminating the tank and having a single sac would be a easier system. Have any of you found this to be true or am I out in left field?

I also am wondering what technique you all use to open a .75" hole to a 1.125 hole hole for the thru hull inlets/outlets.

I was thinking of a 1100 or 1400 sac in each rear locker with 1.125 fill/drain pumps with a reversible crossover pump. I was also wondering if it would be better to go with reversible pumps instead of the aerator style. Seems like there are a lot of draining issues with the aerator that could be avoided.

I am just trying to learn from the experience of the amazing group here on TO!

Thanks




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Ewok]

Take a look at this thread and see how many questions it answers for you, then if you have more questions I'll be glad to help you out.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...lus&highlight=

[bnixon]

Thanks Ewok...I will have to read through this tonight.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[chpthril]

Has anyone removed the stock underfloor tanks and replaced with custom sacs? It seems like having the tanks and additional sacs unnecessarily complicate the system. It seems to my pea brain that eliminating the tank and having a single sac would be a easier system. Have any of you found this to be true or am I out in left field?

One advantage to retaining the in-floor tanks and plumbing, is having the bass 900 lbs just for wake-boarding.

You can T off the factory thru-hulls and add fill pumps just for the new sacs. Either the Attwood T1200 or the Rule 1100 will work. or, you can also use a reversible impeller to fill-drain. This would be a stand-alone system, leaving the factory system intact.

I also am wondering what technique you all use to open a .75" hole to a 1.125 hole hole for the thru hull inlets/outlets

Not going to be simple in bilge of the boat. You could glass a thin backing plate to the inside of the hull so the pilot but would center in the backing plate allow the hole saw to cut the new hole.

[bigskymudflaps]

Go with a stand alone system. Your factory system works well. Don't fix somethin that's not broke.......

[bnixon]

Thanks for the feedback. I think it will leave the factory system alone as you have suggested. I will just use a manual pump for now. I really liked the reversible pumps I had on my old boat. I like keeping it simple! Will probably figure out a system using them for the extra sacs.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[bnixon]

Well I designed two different ballast system for the RZ2. One based on aerator style pumps and the other on reversible pumps. On the base systems there is only about $30 difference between the two. If I wanted to have the reversible drain above waterline then it would be an additional $230 for the tees and check valves.

Here are the two designs





As you can see they both have a reversible cross over pump.

So based on the price I am leaning towards the reversible pumps. What are the drawbacks on them vs the additional complexity and passive draining issues?

Also let me know if I have missed anything in the design or could do it better. Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[chpthril]

The W719EXV will give you the extra needed port for the transfer pump

You will not need dual vents with the impeller pumps.

Having the reversible impeller pumps dump above the water line is a great concept, but I have struggled to find a check valve thats cost effective and works really well. We always seem to have a little but of air being pulled through the valves, thus reducing the efficiency of the pumps.

[bnixon]

The W719EXV will give you the extra needed port for the transfer pump

You will not need dual vents with the impeller pumps.

Having the reversible impeller pumps dump above the water line is a great concept, but I have struggled to find a check valve thats cost effective and works really well. We always seem to have a little but of air being pulled through the valves, thus reducing the efficiency of the pumps.

Thanks for the feedback chpthril. I had reversible pumps on my last boat that dumped below the water line and I just had to stay on them as there is no real audible reminder that they are done. I need to get a base setup going as the manual pumps I am using now are getting old already! I am thinking about starting with the (2) reversible pumps with single in/out and will expand later. I got my current pricing from Wakermakers. Can you give me a quote for the base system?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[chpthril]

Yes, sure thing