need help to cross vent and drain my 2013 z1

[lintick30]

I've noticed that my surf side sack keeps loosing water. Through reading posts it seems like I need to cross vent and drain my sacks. Are there any posts that show you how to do this in a 2013 Z1. I'm just curious if I need to do anything special with the hose routing and where to extend the hose from. I have read that the 2013 z1 has 1-1/8 hose where can I buy this hose and the fittings for this.

[kasey200]

you may want to install check valves in the fill lines as well. I was loosing water through them in my RZ2

[mnpracing]

Ideally, you will want to install check valves in all fill lines, and drain/vent to the opposite side of the boat. Fairly simple to do, it will be easier if you remove the false walls in the rear compartments so that you can access everything. Then simply extend your hoses by using plastic hose barb couplers available at Home Depot, or you can buy enough hose so that you don't have to extend your current hoses. You can buy hose at your local west marine store, wakemakers.com, or through chpthrl here on the Tige Owners boards. Just try to keep the hose level or slanting uphill from the pump to the drain thruhull, and zip tie them up securely especially as you pass them behind the engine against the transom. Once you gain access to that area, it will be pretty straightforward. Just remember you can never use too many zip ties, and make sure to move the drain AND vent lines AND install check valves on the fill lines. These three things will just about guarantee that you'll eliminate any passive draining.

[lintick30]

Ideally, you will want to install check valves in all fill lines, and drain/vent to the opposite side of the boat. Fairly simple to do, it will be easier if you remove the false walls in the rear compartments so that you can access everything. Then simply extend your hoses by using plastic hose barb couplers available at Home Depot, or you can buy enough hose so that you don't have to extend your current hoses. You can buy hose at your local west marine store, wakemakers.com, or through chpthrl here on the Tige Owners boards. Just try to keep the hose level or slanting uphill from the pump to the drain thruhull, and zip tie them up securely especially as you pass them behind the engine against the transom. Once you gain access to that area, it will be pretty straightforward. Just remember you can never use too many zip ties, and make sure to move the drain AND vent lines AND install check valves on the fill lines. These three things will just about guarantee that you'll eliminate any passive draining.

I can only find 1" hose is it going to make a difference if I use 1". Where are the drain pumps located? Could I just pull the one hose off that comes off the T fitting that goes to the thru hull drain. I'm not sure exactly if that is the one that I should be extending?

[mnpracing]

here's 1-1/8" hose: http://www.wakemakers.com/marine-bal...ose-black.html (There are other places that have it too, if that's the size you need).

Drain pumps are located at the back of the hard tanks under the floor right against the transom. If I were you, I would just pull the hose off the thru-hull and extend it, that way you dont have to go digging for the pumps. I'm not familiar with how the Z1 hoses are routed exactly, my drain hoses don't T into another hose, so not sure what you are referring to. Your fill lines will have a T that splits to the bag, and to the tank off the same line. But, make sure you identify which thru-hull the drain lines are attached to, then just pull the hose off the thru-hull, extend it and connect it to the opposite side thru-hull.

Verify the hose size too, early 2013's still used 3/4".

[boardman74]

I think the T he is talking about is the fill line. The pumps under the middle of the floor are the fills not drain pumps. You can't see the drain pumps unless you remove the floors in the rear lockers to access the tanks. Like MNpracing said just extend those lines. Its a job to get at the tanks.

[chpthril]

Lintick30,

Are you running custom over-sized surf sacs or the OEM 350# surf sacs? In most cases, we see the majority of the passive draining through the drain plumbing when the larger, taller custom sacs are installed. This is because the top of the filled sac is above the drain thru-hull, so the water naturally wants to equalize. The rest of the time, we might see some through the vent plumbing and some through the fill plumbing. In a few cases, we had been able to cure the fill line passive draining by simply rerouting the fill line to get it up higher then the filled sac. other times, it takes a check-valve. For the drain line, the ideal fix is to cross the drain lines. A check-valve in the vent line will stop any passive draining there, but the cost is about the same as the hose required to cross the boat.

No real trick to it, just tie the lines up to they do not sag as they cross the boat. Pull the lines off the thru-hulls, use a hose barb x hose barb connector to attach the extension hose and route it across.

You can use 1" and will not notice any decline in flow rate. You will however, need to heat up the 1" hose, lube the fitting, in order to get 1" hose to fit over any of the existing 1.125" fittings. Also, its better to stretch a smaller hose over a larger fitting, then try to clamp down a larger hose on a smaller fitting, so you will need to source some 1.125 HB x 1.0 HB connectors if you go with the 1" hose.

[lintick30]

I was just crawling around in the boat and realized that drains and the vents are 2 different ports. The T that I was looking at is on what I believe are the vents, one for the lower tank and one for the upper bag T'd into one through port. I also found the T fittings in the fill lines that you guys where talking about. My boat went into production mid may and I'm pretty sure it's 1-1/8, the only reason I was asking is because they said they outfitted the boat with 1-1/8" but they are still using a 1" ball valve. Whats the point of putting in 1-1/8" hose if your going through a 1" ball valve? Any recommendations on check valves for the fill lines?

[mnpracing]

Same site for check valves, just get the size you need http://www.wakemakers.com/marine-check-valve.html

There's no loss of flow using a 1" valve, since it's such a short distance (valve and thru-hull is only a few inches long).

[mnpracing]

Lintick30,

A check-valve in the vent line will stop any passive draining there, but the cost is about the same as the hose required to cross the boat.

Mike, I don't believe a check valve in the vent line will stop passive draining as the check valve in the vent allows flow out but not in. Only sure way to stop it is to cross vent to the other side of the boat. Am I thinking about that correctly?

[chpthril]

I was just crawling around in the boat and realized that drains and the vents are 2 different ports. The T that I was looking at is on what I believe are the vents, one for the lower tank and one for the upper bag T'd into one through port. I also found the T fittings in the fill lines that you guys where talking about. My boat went into production mid may and I'm pretty sure it's 1-1/8, the only reason I was asking is because they said they outfitted the boat with 1-1/8" but they are still using a 1" ball valve. Whats the point of putting in 1-1/8" hose if your going through a 1" ball valve? Any recommendations on check valves for the fill lines?

The reason for the use of the 1.125" hose is because thats the OD of the barbed outlet on the Attwood Tsunami T1200 ballast pump that Tige is using. 1" is a very common bronze thru-hull size, but 1.125" is not. In terms of flow, the smaller 1" thru-hull and pump are below the water, so water pressure is force-feeding the pump. The larger 1.125" hose is on the outlet side.

The OD if the 1.125" hose is about 1.1375"

Yes, the drain plumbing and vent plumbing have their own thru-hull. The fill plumbing splits and sends water to both the in-floor tank and the soft sac.

[chpthril]

Mike, I don't believe a check valve in the vent line will stop passive draining as the check valve in the vent allows flow out but not in. Only sure way to stop it is to cross vent to the other side of the boat. Am I thinking about that correctly?

You gotta think outside the box just a little bit with this one In the vent line, the c/v would be in its normal orientation. Allow the sac to purge air/water when its full. We have found that even a non-spring loaded c/v, whether a flapper style or duck-bill, require a little pump pressure to open and purge. once the pump is off, the valve holds the pressurized water in the sac.

[snroth]

You gotta think outside the box just a little bit with this one In the vent line, the c/v would be in its normal orientation. Allow the sac to purge air/water when its full. We have found that even a non-spring loaded c/v, whether a flapper style or duck-bill, require a little pump pressure to open and purge. once the pump is off, the valve holds the pressurized water in the sac.

What happens when you empty the tanks though?

[chpthril]

What happens when you empty the tanks though?

Water exits

[mnpracing]

What happens when you empty the tanks though?

You would not want to have check valves on the fill lines and the vent in the rear, as you would have issues draining the hard tank. On mine, I have checks on the fill lines, and cross routed the vent lines (no check valve) for that reason.