Starting a ballast upgrade to my 2010 22ve

[nevada_rain]

Ok, so I bought a 750 piggy back system and I was not impressed. As suggested by chpthril it did take FOREVER to gravity drain the 750 sac via the hard tank underneath.

So, the good guys at wakemakers have shipped me a few more pumps and supplies and I am about to get started.

Here is the plan:

1. Revert my hoses back to the factory arrangement and fill the 250 hard tanks like I did originally.

2. Add a fill pump and a drain pump for a 750 Fly High sac (this will require a T arrangement in the hull like a few others have done)

3. Add a fill pump and drain pump to a 450 Staightline Sumo sac under my side bench (this too will require a second T arrangement)

4. Wire in new switches for these pumps and avoid messing with my Tige board or computer system.

So I know I will have a few questions, so here it goes:

Question 1: The 450 sumo sac will completely fill the compartment under the bench on the port side. Therefore, adding the fill hose to the top of the sac will be difficult. Can I fill the sac from the bottom (with a Tsunami pump). Will the pump have the power to do it and should I use a check valve so that it does not drain back ?

Question 2: I need to T-off two of my intakes to add two more pumps. I like chpthril's advice that I add a pump to lines that least likely to be used at the same time. Doe anyone know the best way to add two pumps to the Tige compartment? I have seen a few pics - will I need some 22.5 or 45 degree elbows?

Question 3: I only received one sumo sac adapter in my shipment. If I fill through one of the 'twist' - holes and I drain through the bottom one that looks like a bottle cap, will I not need to vent out the last remaining 'twist'-hole? (If so I need another Straightline-3/4 adapter)

Question 4: Do people use teflon tape whenever they encounter a threaded junction, or do they rely on the rubber gasket?

Question 5: Is wiring the pumps entirely separate from the existing system a good idea, and does anyone have advice where to locate those switches.

Any help would be most appreciated.

MD
British Columbia
CANADA

[skippabcool]

Have you asked the guys at wakemakers? I ask this because you got your parts there and they know what you are trying to do and sold you stuff to accomplish that task. I would think that they would be the best to ask so that their parts work correctly together. That way if something doesn't it can't be because you didn't apply their stuff correctly.

If you can't get any answers from them I am sure that we can get you some information to help you. Good luck.

[NICKYPOO]

That would be my suggestion, ask Wakemakers. If you're getting your supplies from them, they should have the knowledge of how to put the parts they sold you together. Asking Chpthril how to fix it is like buying a new truck at one dealership and then asking another dealer to do the paperwork for the first dealer. The first dealer gets the sale and second dealer does all the work?

Not trying to be sarcastic, just saying. Wakemakers should be able to handle all your questions. If for whatever reason they can't, that's when you go to Chpthril. I honestly can't think of anyone on here who uses the Straightline sacs.

[thtrog]

Two worthy replies

[nevada_rain]

Sorry, should have mentioned I was calling them today. I guess I was looking for any tidbits of info from any sources before I start the project.

thanks for the interest,

will keep people informed,

md

[Ewok]

Sounds like you are trying to do what I did, I just don't have the extra sac under the seats, and I don't have tige touch. Take a look at my write up @ http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...lus&highlight=

[chpthril]

?1a) yes, an aerator pump will fill through the bottom port of the sac. But it will get slow as the sac fills due to the increase in head pressure. You will also need to drain from a bottom sac port.

?1b) A check-valve can be avoided if the fill line is routed up higher then the sac, before connecting to the sac. If a direct route is taken, then yes, a check-valve will be needed to prevent passive draining back through the fill hose.

?2) Depending on the pumps used and which thru-hull you T into, a 45 or 90 may be needed.

?3) some sac venting is not needed. IMPO, I prefer to vent the sacs. With aerator pumps, you typically need 3 sac fittings: fill, drain and vent

?4) In theory, it depends on the type of fitting. When I do a ballast install, I use a some marine sealer on all the threaded fittings. It serves as a sealer and thread lock.

?5) If the ballast system is going to be used primarily for a surf setup, then tie the supplementary pumps into the factory pumps via a relay. If the base system is going to still be used for wake-boarding, then make the additional sacs a stand-alone system with their switches.

[nevada_rain]

Ok, sent the Tsunamis back and installed a Johnson reversible and routed to the 750 and 600 (under the side seat new bag) via a Bosworth directional valve. I located the valve above the 750 in the rear locker on the angled piece that guards the fuel intake line.

I will take a few pics if people want.

Tonite I need to do the venting lines. On the starboard side, does anyone know which of the three holes is the vent line?

I was told to run the bilge and drain pumps and put my ear to the lines to determine which is which. The boat is still in the shop, so I don't want to fill water to drain it.

Lastly, to instal my switch I considered a separate switch box under the dash area to avoid cutting into the dash...I am scared to do that. Any advice?

md

[NICKYPOO]

Ok, sent the Tsunamis back and installed a Johnson reversible and routed to the 750 and 600 (under the side seat new bag) via a Bosworth directional valve. I located the valve above the 750 in the rear locker on the angled piece that guards the fuel intake line.

I will take a few pics if people want.

Tonite I need to do the venting lines. On the starboard side, does anyone know which of the three holes is the vent line?

I was told to run the bilge and drain pumps and put my ear to the lines to determine which is which. The boat is still in the shop, so I don't want to fill water to drain it.

Lastly, to instal my switch I considered a separate switch box under the dash area to avoid cutting into the dash...I am scared to do that. Any advice?

md

Be careful cutting holes. It can be addictive. Where exactly are you looking to mount the switches?

[skippabcool]

I was a little nervous at first and was looking for different options. I ended up making a template that worked with the switches then taped it out on the dash and cut away. In the end I was glad I did it the way I did.

[NICKYPOO]

Skippa, did you pull the actual panel off the dash before you cut it? Just curious. Things are are always easier to work on when they're on the bench.