Advice on install wanted / needed

[whitlock87]

I have been thinking about adding ballast and a PP to my boat for some time. Now that my son has joined the Navy, I have lost my third, so I now have a lot more time to work on the boat 

However, thanks to Steve (Stingreye) I have a nice set of tanks to install, so the ballast installation is my first project. This brings me to my questions.
1) Does anybody have a generic pluming diagram from a ballast system I can use as a template?
2) When you fill the tanks, do you always fill them up completely? (The reason I am asking this, is I am thinking of install some sort of float system in each tank to let me know how much water is inside. If I will just be filling them completely, then why waste the time.)
3) Do I need to add a new water pickup under the boat, or can I tie into the one for the engine?

Thanks for any ideas, advice
David

[skippabcool]

I would get with Chpthril, he can probably help on parts and a design. But I know he is extremely busy right now.

I am going to say you will want to add a pickup line under the boat and not T off the engine. Some have done that but I wouldn't advise it. If it was acceptable they would come that way from the factory. IMO I think you will want to do a pick up line for either each tank or one then T off to a manifold. Cutting the boats sounds scary and tough but many have done it on here and if your slow and careful it is not a big deal.

Do you have picks of the tanks in the boat? I know you got them free but I would think that going with sacs would be a better option, unless you plan to remove the floor and can put them either down under the floor or way in the transom where they are not seen or in the way. How much water do the tanks hold?

If they don't hold too much water then I think a float system would be a waste, meaning you need them filled all the way anyways (depends on how big and what you plan to do, surf or wakeboard). You could fill them outside the boat and then mark them on the side when they have so many gallons or 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4.

[Stingreye]

For the small front tanks.... one thing I was considering was mounting a handle somehow. I think they are small enough to be used like a fat brick. Those rear tanks are going to be tough to fit anywhere. They BARELY fit out my rear lockers. If Chpthrill hadn't told me they would slide out, I would not have believed you could take them out without cutting them.

Skippa good idea on the marks....Unfortunately these are old school tanks. They are black plastic with carpet on them. Hopefully you will find a use for them but they really waste alot of space.

Also, if you manage to find someone willing to swap you tanks for bags. GO FOR IT! The bags really are much better.

[Ewok]

Here is the diagram I used to help plan my system. I took the tige plan view and used power point to add my graphics. This ties into my existing factory system but it should give you an idea.

[whitlock87]

Does each vent / drain needs a separate hole on the side of the boat, or can you use a check valve?

[whitlock87]

this is what I was thinking for the location

[whitlock87]

Weight might be off, as I am converting the cubic inches into gallons and then * it by 8.35 to get the pounds

[chpthril]

Yes, the vent and drain lines can share a thru-hull. But, with the use of hard tanks, you can not use check-valves. The tanks will tin-can and create vacuum. If you do share a thru-hull, I wouldnt worry too much about recycling drain flow back into the tank. There may be a little that goes down the vent back into the tank, but not much.