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    #1

    Adding Side-Side pumps

    So, like WAboating, I too am installing the side-side transfer pump system. Thanks for your post on it! I'll make sure I route the hose as high as I can so I don't get the unwanted tx.

    I ride goofy and the wife goes regular. It's a real pain to have to wait for all that water to transfer so a few hundred bucks to fix it will be well worth it. She's even given up a few times, (you know how impatient those wives can be).

    I've ordered all the parts but stepped up few things from your system, mostly to adapt it to my situation. Ordered two Tsunami T1200 pumps with 1-1/8" fittings and 1-1/8" hose.

    I have to add two ports to each W707 bag (750lb), one drain and one fill so I ordered two 1-1/8" through-hull flow-rite fittings so why not go big! I've successfully added a port to a bag before so I'm not too worried about doing it again. It does get a little nerve racking when cutting the hole but oh well...no guts, no glory.

    Stay tuned...
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    #2
    post up pics of the process. would be interested to see shots of adding a port to a bag..
    2012 22ve.. RIP 4/17
    2014 Z3.. Surf away

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      #3
      You'll be thrilled with the results. The time saved is amazing, especially on my huge fat sacs. Several times I've turned on the pumps, turned away for what seemed like just a moment to get other things ready to go, and looked back to see the bag bulging. It still takes several minutes to fill and drain but only about half of what it used to take.

      Looking forward to your writeup and photos!

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        #4
        Oh and by the way, I ordered a DPDT switch. I am pretty sure that will work. Do some of you use SPDT?

        Comment

          #5
          A DPDT works fine. You just use one column of terminals for a pair of aerator pumps.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #6
            Man, I hope Tige offers this as part of the factory ballast system soon.

            Comment

              #7
              Post pics please. May be considering this next fall.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                A DPDT works fine. You just use one column of terminals for a pair of aerator pumps.
                OK, thanks - I just have to figure out the illumination part. I know they have a diode between two legs to keep the square light on when you turn on the dash lights but that's all I know. I looked at my factory switches and there are no part number on them. Carling has so many options it's hard to tell which illumination option is best so I went with the "D" option as it was the most available???? (VJD1D66B)

                I'll try to post pics as I go. I'm usually don't think of it as I'm just trying to get things done between wife & kid inturruptions. Yippy!

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by wired1236 View Post
                  OK, thanks - I just have to figure out the illumination part. I know they have a diode between two legs to keep the square light on when you turn on the dash lights but that's all I know. I looked at my factory switches and there are no part number on them. Carling has so many options it's hard to tell which illumination option is best so I went with the "D" option as it was the most available???? (VJD1D66B)

                  I'll try to post pics as I go. I'm usually don't think of it as I'm just trying to get things done between wife & kid inturruptions. Yippy!
                  SkippaBcool add the diods during his install so the light illuminated when the NAV's are on, so check his ballast thread for a description. IIRC, you need the switch with the 2 small terminals (#7 and #8) at the top for the light, one (#8) for B+ and 1 for the GND (#7), rather then the common switch that just has the PIN #7 GND that allows the light to light when the switch is activated.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                    SkippaBcool add the diods during his install so the light illuminated when the NAV's are on, so check his ballast thread for a description. IIRC, you need the switch with the 2 small terminals (#7 and #8) at the top for the light, one (#8) for B+ and 1 for the GND (#7), rather then the common switch that just has the PIN #7 GND that allows the light to light when the switch is activated.
                    Great, that's what I ordered. I'll check it out. Thanks for the pointer!

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Ran into a few problems. First - I thought I ordered the 8 pin switch so I could have the light switch on with my dash - nope. regular 7 pin. Oh well. I have it wired to just light up like a normal two way postion switch (for now). Here is a pic of the switch installed. (It's the switch labled P-S.)



                      Second - I ran 1-1/8" hose. Wouldn't have been a problem except I purposly cut the black hose short right before going into the bags thinking it would be cool to have the clear hose near the bags so I could more easily tell if I was getting flow problems. I thought I could just put in a coupler for the transition but no one seems to sell a 1-1/18" hose coupler. The only one I found was the Attwood 90deg coupler fitting. Not a show stopper but I wish I would have looked into the lack of fitting before I went 1-1/8.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment

                        #12
                        No one makes ANYTHING for the 1.125 hose. I've ranted on here before about that oddball hose size. Just give me 60 seconds with my hands around the neck of the guy who thought it was a good idea to use a completely nonstandard hose size for marine applications....

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by WABoating View Post
                          No one makes ANYTHING for the 1.125 hose. I've ranted on here before about that oddball hose size. Just give me 60 seconds with my hands around the neck of the guy who thought it was a good idea to use a completely nonstandard hose size for marine applications....
                          2x!!!!
                          Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                          Comment

                            #14
                            This is what I came up with. It will actually work just fine- might just loose a little flow rate but man - what a crock! I even tried buying a 1-1/4" coupler but I couldn't get the hose to stretch, even after heating the hose up until it was butter.

                            http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Elbows

                            Comment

                              #15
                              I'm surprised you couldn't get the heated hose over the larger fitting. That's how we handle standard one inch hose on those #@$%$%$% 1.125 fittings; it's an extra 1/8th of an inch, which is exactly what you're doing going from 1.125 to 1.250. I'd be a lot happier if that connection was straight rather than elbowed.

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