Hey - I tried with a scrap piece until the hose deformed (using a heat gun). I figured it wouldn't be that big of deal either. I can try again as I too would be happier.
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
Do a search here for how various people have made smaller hose fit on larger fittings. I've found KY Jelly or saliva on the fitting is helpful, for example. Also, once the hose is hot use pliers to enlarge the end of the hose from the inside in several directions. Basically "flare" the end of the hose. This helps with getting it started on the fitting. Heat, flare, heat again, flare again, etc. and then finally heat and immediately twist it onto the moistened fitting.Last edited by IDBoating; 11-26-2012, 09:38 PM.
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Like WA stated, the 1.125" is an odd-ball size in the plumbing world. There is rally no measurable flow difference between the 1" hose and 1.125" hose in our application, so its not worth the price difference. The hurdle with the 1.125" hose is getting to crimp down on all the more common 1" fittings that we use. Its much easier and more effective, to stretch the 1" hose over the few 1.125" fittings we do use and encounter.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by wired1236 View PostHey - I tried with a scrap piece until the hose deformed (using a heat gun). I figured it wouldn't be that big of deal either. I can try again as I too would be happier.
Also try not to heat down the the length of hose much more then the depth of what the fitting will go. This makes the hose act like pushing a rope.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View Postdid you lube the fitting? The dry rubber hose will not slip over the dry plastic fitting, too much friction. Add a dab of lube, and the fitting slides right in ya'll git yur minds out da gutter
Also try not to heat down the the length of hose much more then the depth of what the fitting will go. This makes the hose act like pushing a rope.
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Soap should work ok. I typically use the same 3M 5200 that I use on the below-water fittings because its already opened and in the boat with me. It works as great lube when uncured and only takes a thin film.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostSoap should work ok. I typically use the same 3M 5200 that I use on the below-water fittings because its already opened and in the boat with me. It works as great lube when uncured and only takes a thin film.
So after a little swearing and a little more liquid soap, I got it. The clear hose is much easier. The black was hard to get on w/o deforming the hose but I got it. They must be made of a little different material. On to gluing in more ports into the bags!
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Update-
So finished the side-side install. I think it came out really nice. Just sucks to have to wait until April to test it. I used Chpthril's thread as a guide so he gets all the credit- (shout out)
Here are the pics showing how I added the ports:
Tape where you want the port...
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Mark out the hole using the ring in the previous picture as a guide.
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Cut out the hole (I just used a razor blade with a holder) just a little larger than the mark since you have to fit the through-hole fitting base in. It needs to be slighly larger. Take your time. Making the hole larger is easy, smaller is impossible.
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Slip the new port in the hole you just made. See how the hole is just slightly larger. You can heat up the bag a little too if it's just too tight or just cut a little more out. It's easy to do with a razor blade.
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I put pipe tape around the lower threads for added protection.
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All the parts. I used 2 types of glue. Weaver 3001 inflatable boat adhesive and 3M 4200. The Weaver glue is a two part glue and is very expensive- $30 a jar. I talked to a local inflatable shop and one guy suggested to use this. I did on my fist bag and it worked great. The next time I went in, another guy suggested just using 3M 4200 as an option so this time I ended up using both. The 3001 glue takes a few steps in applying and drying so pay attention to the instructions.
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Image of just the 3200 first coat of 3.
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Then I put a small amount of 4200 around the neck of the port as added sealant. Use just a small amount as the glue will want to spit out the side of teh colar which then covers all the 3001 glue. I am sure you could just go with just using the 4200 as it's much cheaper and easier to work with but the 3001 worked well for me last time and I think it really makes a good bond with the bag rubber. Your choice.
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The finished product. Install the colar tight and let it dry for 24 hours before even moving it. The 3001 glue takes 6 days to fully cure but you can move it now. I have plenty of time to wait for better weather.
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Now do a leak test just to be sure you're good. If not, you can always put a little 4200 around the area of the leak. It should stop it. So far I have had great success. I tested it on the floor filling the bag 1/2 way and letting it set for a while just to be sure.
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A few more pics of finished storage compartment.
Here are the two drain pumps behind the storage compartment wall. Newer transfer pump is the closer 1200. I tried to suff them so the pumps are as low as possible.
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Here is my transition from black 1-1/8" hose to clear hose. I tucked it up as high as I could in the front corner of the locker to hopefully prevent unwanted water from coming back into the bag from the other side.
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New fill port attached.
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Pic of the two drain ports - one original 3/4" going to the outside and the new 1-1/8" transfer drain to the other side. The longer 3/4" hose is the vent.
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nice work man Im jealous. By looking at your diagram you have two transfer pumps....thats awesome! This thing will move some water quick! How exactly does it work? So say your surfing goofy and switch to regular side. Do both transfer pumps run to pull water to the other side, and does the other side also use the fill pump as well?
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
Though his legend has a symbol for reversible pumps, his diagram doesn't show any. The two transfer pumps appear to be unidirectional and plumbed in opposite directions, so I presume he turns on the one that is pumping in the direction he desires. (BTW, that is how I configured my transfer pumps as well.)
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Originally posted by WABoating View PostThough his legend has a symbol for reversible pumps, his diagram doesn't show any. The two transfer pumps appear to be unidirectional and plumbed in opposite directions, so I presume he turns on the one that is pumping in the direction he desires. (BTW, that is how I configured my transfer pumps as well.)
The other pump you see in the pic is the standard drain pump...so technically, I have two drain pumps...one just happens to be plumbed to the fill of the other bag.Last edited by wired1236; 02-27-2013, 08:10 PM.
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
Originally posted by wired1236 View PostI can also turn the fill pump on whichever side I want to fill so it fills even faster. I could even do the same with the opposite drain pump.
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Update- finally got warm enough to test this out. It really pumps the water in/out and sid-side quick. I do have a problem with unwanted siphoning between bags. I put the hoses up as far as I could and even held them up in my hand right at the bag at one point to see if that would stop it but it just slowed it down. So now I have two options:
#1, go with two vented loops which will be hard to fit and get high enough OR,
#2 install two shut-off ball valves.
Each have their + and -. I think I'll try the vented loops and if that doesnt work, I just put in ball valves. Either way, it's still worth it!
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