Fill and Drain pump both run at same time

[jmhatchett]

When i am trying to empty out rear tanks, the fill and drain are both activated when i flip switch to drain. I know this bc it wont empty until boat is taken out of water and I can hear the fill intake sucking air up trying to pull water.

Next problem is we had a huge wakeboard tournament this weekend and was trying to get some warm up runs in for a division and couldnt get the wake dialed bc both tanks were constantly full and i couldnt empty or lower one to level the boat had to keep moving people around the whole ride.

ANY HELP would be great i know its the end of the season for most but down here in TX we ride through october and November usually. Thanks in Advance!

[chpthril]

Does the drain also run with the switch in the fill position? Sounding like a bad switch or some miss-wiring.

[IDBoating]

Sounding like a bad switch or some miss-wiring.

x2, except that his original post implies this is true on both rear tanks (he uses the plural). Both switches failing the same way at the same time seems unlikely. So does a spontaneous accidential rewiring (presuming it was working, but only recently developed this problem). I'll be interested to learn what happened here.

[jmhatchett]

all of the switches went bad honestly (they wouldnt click into position very easily and would have to wiggle to get the pumps to run) and had new switches sent from tige and had a service tech put them in. Had been having the auto-fill (assume that tank was below water level and just pushed itself into tank) but after having new switches put in they both will fill up with water and stay full until drained out of lake.

When the switch is in drain position it activates both pumps. When pump is in fill position it activates only one pump but havent noticed if it fill or drain because when i switch to fill it is mostly already full by the time im off the trailer so it starts to push water out the vent or drain line. Its really weird situation and i wish i had a better grasping of what was going on so i could relay the info better.

[IDBoating]

Switches were replaced, eh? Sounds like your "service tech" doesn't understand wiring.

[jmhatchett]

i sure hate to assume it, should have been pretty simple to unplug one switch and replace with new switch just matching up wire to terminal, but what do i know

[IDBoating]

Yep, I would think (and hope) that too. However, reading between the lines a bit, it sounds like things worked, then the switches failed and were replaced, and after the switch replacement the operation of BOTH of your rear sacs are broken - in the exact same way. The only "event" was the switch replacement.

Did I understand that correctly?

[adamsjstt]

Sounds like a diode is missing or installed backwards...on my switches there is 1 light that lights up in either full or drain position. Since there is the same light that turns on in either position a diode has to be in line with the power source from one if the pumps to prevent back feeding the opposite pump.

[jmhatchett]

WAboating-yes you understood perfectly and that is as good as i can understand it also. Adamsjstt that sounds like a probable cause, would you know of a fix possibly??

[IDBoating]

Sounds like a diode is missing or installed backwards...on my switches there is 1 light that lights up in either full or drain position. Since there is the same light that turns on in either position a diode has to be in line with the power source from one if the pumps to prevent back feeding the opposite pump.

True on some switches, not on others. My switches, for example, bring out a separate ground lug for the light. No diodes. So the absence of diodes isn't necessarily an indication that they're needed. It depends upon the type of switch you have.

[EgbertaFay]

Sounding like a bad switch or some miss-wiring.





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