Ballast Pump Issue

[Goalie30dad]

Pulled the floor up last night. Found the manifold and the suspect pump. Wires were spliced twice...hit the switch and nothing. Crimp connections looked gunky. Cut the wires and hooked up again. Still nothing. Looks like I will need a new pump.

Wired - will that 1000 gph have the same foot print as the original 550? I do not have a lot of room to work with as one end of the pumps are close to the gas tank.

Thanks everyone for the help.

I tried posting some pic of our wave - but the jpg was too big.

Have a great labor day weekend everyone

[chpthril]

Pulled the floor up last night. Found the manifold and the suspect pump. Wires were spliced twice...hit the switch and nothing. Crimp connections looked gunky. Cut the wires and hooked up again. Still nothing. Looks like I will need a new pump.

Wired - will that 1000 gph have the same foot print as the original 550? I do not have a lot of room to work with as one end of the pumps are close to the gas tank.

Thanks everyone for the help.

I tried posting some pic of our wave - but the jpg was too big.

Have a great labor day weekend everyone

Upload your pics to a host site such as Photobucket, then copy/paste the URL to your post.

Just for chits and giggle, I would test for power and ground at those pump wire splices with the switch on. This can be done with e simple volt meter or a 12v test light. if power and ground are present with the switch on, then you know thats the switch and circuit are good and that the pump motor is dead.

[Goalie30dad]

all other pumps work. So in removing the pump. The manifold is white PVC with the pump connected to a PVC fitting. I guess I should remove the PVC fitting and the pump will come off that fitting. I can them hook the new pump to the fitting and then screw the PVC fitting back into the manifold.

Any glue used to make the new connection?

[chpthril]

The pump body is threaded into the PVC manifold. Thats pump IIRC, has a serviceable pump motor/cartridge. All that needed is to release the motor from the body. Snap the new motor into the body, make your wiring connections and boom, you're in biz.

The link wired1236 posted shows the motor/cartridge.

[IDBoating]

I would test for power and ground at those pump wire splices with the switch on. This can be done with e simple volt meter or a 12v test light.

Definitely follow this advice. If it's a wiring or switch or fuse issue, you can save yourself a bunch of plumbing work that won't fix the problem.

Cheap multimeters are available at almost any hardware store. Harbor Freight sells them for under $10 and literally gives them away as door-busters once in a while. Good tool to have around now that you own a boat.

[Goalie30dad]

Hey MLS - looks like you have the same rig. Nice!

[Goalie30dad]

Thanks Chpthril and WA - though it looks easier to remove it from the manifold as the pump is right against the fuel tank. Will take a closer look later this weekend. Will maybe stop at the local dealer and have a chat as well.

Off to the lake for some surfing now though.

Cheers

[IDBoating]

Thanks Chpthril and WA - though it looks easier to remove it from the manifold as the pump is right against the fuel tank.

Perhaps, but if the pump isn't the problem there may be no need to remove it....

[mls6722]

Hey MLS - looks like you have the same rig. Nice!

almost - I have the 22 with the Samson tower in the same colors - graphic are a bit different). my manifold was connected to a large rubber hose on the inlet from the transom. It should be possible to lift that manifol off the bottom of the bilge to get access to the pump cartridge without disassembling. Good luck. Enjoy the surfing