Still need to put the engine divider back in. Just wanted to see what it looked like.
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2007 22Ve Ballast Install
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Originally posted by lancehon View PostNice I'm doing the exact same setup on the starboard side with the 400# sac. I'm not sure but do you think it would work to stack 2 in there and manually fill the top one? Or would there be too much pressure on the lower fittings?
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Originally posted by lancehon View PostNice I'm doing the exact same setup on the starboard side with the 400# sac. I'm not sure but do you think it would work to stack 2 in there and manually fill the top one? Or would there be too much pressure on the lower fittings?
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ing#post204725
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Originally posted by skippabcool View PostI think Timmy! or somebody else use to stack them, it may have even been the 750# sacs, before getting a custom sac. Iwndr how well they would stay in place.
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On to the switches. I taped off the area then built a template in cardboard. I will check that it works with the switches then trace it over to the tape and cut with a dremel. I will also use the template with the switches in to pre build my wiring for them. I will be daisy chaining the power, ground, and courtesy lights.
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Originally posted by lancehon View PostNice I'm doing the exact same setup on the starboard side with the 400# sac. I'm not sure but do you think it would work to stack 2 in there and manually fill the top one? Or would there be too much pressure on the lower fittings?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostIve stacked 2 manually filled 400's in one locker, but never done one on top of a plumbed it sac. As long as neither sac is filled tight as tick, then o dont see it being to much. The top sac will be about 350 lbs and should just push the top fittings of the bottom sac down and mold around them.
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Originally posted by Timmy! View PostI noticed when I cut the holes for mine that some of the area behind that panel is already open and some is not. Is it that way on yours too?
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Originally posted by Timmy! View PostManual fill is the key. If they are automated, you can't do it because the top sac will push the water out of the bottom one. On my RZ2, I would fill the bottom one as full as possible and then the top one would be almost full, prbly about 350 like Mike describes. We did experiment with pushing the bottom one up under the divider some so that the end of the top one could dip down into the locker more but since you aren't pressurizing it, it didn't really fill it anymore.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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One thing that I found in drilling the holes through the rear divider. The first one I cut from the backside. I cut the carpet in a X so that I could tuck the carpet in the hole making it look nice. The second one I drilled from the front just drilling through the carpet. For me the better looking one is the one that I drilled from the front. The carpet is much cleaner looking. I used a 1 3/8" hole saw to cut the holes. I am wondering if it would have been better to go a little bigger to allow the quick connect to slip further back into the divider.
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