Adding ballast to 2008 22Ve - mls6722

[mls6722]

I am a bit late getting started on my winter project, but I have made a bit of progress on the planning and want to get some feedback and help - thanks in advance.

I have a 2008 22Ve with the factory 800 lb. system. In 2008, the aft ballast was a 250 lb hard tank on each side, aft of the storage compartment. On these boats, the installation of the hard tanks required the Batteries on the port side and the TAPS pump and blower on the Starboard side to be pushed forward into the storage compartment and Tige built a step in that compartment to enclose this equip. The step must go!

Here is the plan.
1 - Keep the factory system - why, because I like to do things the hard way , and I believe those aft tanks are good to have and I can fit the custom Enzo in while keeping them.

2 - Relocate the batteries to the forward storage compartment (don't tell my wife)and rebuild the aft port locker to remove the step.

3 - Move the TAPS and blower or work around them in the starboard locker (really not sure how to go here) and rebuild this locker to also remove the step.

4 - Install a custom Enzo sac on each side in the aft lockers

5 - Install two new aerator fill pumps to service the new sacs (one per side), and two new drain pumps (one per side).

6 - reroute the hard tank vent line to a second fill port on the Enzo so that the overflow from the factory tank will aid in filling the new sac.


Here is a schematic of my plan and a bunch of photos showing the lockers as well as the current fill pumps and the area I intend to mount the new fill pumps.



Comments, Ideas, suggestions, thoughts - Thanks all.

[chpthril]

I think you may experience some passive draining in the vent line from the tank to the surf sac, so I would suggest a check-valve in line.

1) Yes
2) If you are using a thru-hull mushroom, you should not experience any passive filling. But, you could see some passive draining through the fill line due to the sac height when filled and the hose routing. A check-valve will stop that.
3) Yes, but thats a lot of hose hose to go forward, then around the bow, then aft again a little. I would either run them forward to where the bow sac's vents and drains are for the same side. Or, T the vent into the drain line and let it cross over the aft as you are already looking to do with the drain.

Other then that, I think your plan is solid.

[Ewok]

Sounds like a good plan, very similar to my plan, I just didn't have to move the batteries or taps pump. I'll finish mine in April.

[mls6722]

Thanks Chpthril and Ewok for the input. Thanks also to WABoating for the advice.

Ewok, I sure wish I didn't have to move batteries or Taps, but I think I have a plan.

I'm showing and updated schematic incorporating some of the advice.

I plan to put the Taps on the forward wall of the engine compartment and have some photos to show where. I plan to get a coupler and an additional length of hydraulic line rather than replacing the entire line (routed behind the hard tanks). Any significant issue with that?

Next I'll be searching for threads showing how folks rewired to move batteries.

Here are a couple pics showing the proposed location for Taps and the port compartment with batteries gone.

[mls6722]

I need some help with my battery relocation. I have attached a schematic of the installation as I see it. I have a few questions:
1 - In order to keep the heavy wires short, I think the Battery Switch needs to go forward with the batteries. I sure would like to keep it where it is - what are my options?
2 - Not planning on moving the isolator - ok?
3 - The three wires labeled "to transom" go into wire looms and I can't follow them. Two are fairly heavy gauge. Does anyone know if I can pick up these wires somewhere under the helm, or should I just splice to them where they are?
4 - Does the schematic look correct? Any other comments are welcome.

This better be worth all the extra effort to keep the hard tanks .

[chpthril]

In your 2nd diagram, there are two green lines for each sac. 2 have check-valves, the other two do not. The two with the c/v's are the surf sac's vent lines T'ing into the drain plumbing. If the other two are the hard tank overflows going to the surf sac, then these are the two that may give you some passive draining out of the surf sac. Since the top of the sac will be higher then the tank, it may try to equalize.

Adding a c/v in that line will stop the passive flow, but after taking a 2nd look, this will also cause the hard tank to tin-can when draining. I think the best solution for this hose is going to get it routed as high as possible between the sac and tank. But since the tank will now be venting through the sac's vent, and it has a c/v, you may still experience some tin-caning as the c/v will prevent air from replacing the water as its pumped out of the tank. May be best to not link the hard tank and sac.

In RE to the battery relocation: I would move the ISO along with the batteries. To leave it where it is would require 2 long runs between the ISO and the battery. Moving it means only 1 from the alt.

You will need one long GND from the batteries to the block and a B+ for the starter. The on/off switch will need to be in between the main battery and the starter, regardless of where its located. I would only move it in order to keep the length of cable at a minimum.

The RED labeled "to transom" probably feeds the helm BUSS, but I would want to confirm that thats the only place is stops at before dead-heading it and running a new one from the battery to the helm. Same with the black. It may also feed a GND BUSS on the transom over on the starboard side.

[mls6722]

Chp, thank you again -
I'm going to go ahead and separate the hard tanks from the new sacs and keep the overboard vent on the hard tank.

I have a good place for the Batt switch in the aft compartment up high very close to the starter. I made some measurements and the positive side of the 2/0 is going from 12' to 16' and the negative cable from 6' to 12' so the total is going from 18' to 28'. Should I be thinking about up sizing to 3/0 or 4/0? Any advice on procuring the new Batt cables and some custom built 4 AWG for the alternator line and the Helm power lines?

Also, I read that the TAPS hydraulic line is0.25" 1800 psi nylon. Does this sound correct? Any suggestions where to get some of that line and fittings?

[mls6722]

Making some progress on the ballast. Removed Taps, Blower and batteries and built the compartment walls.
IMAG0575.jpg
Used 1/2" Azek rather than plywood. It is nice to work with.
The factory panels were made of the same material or something
similar.
IMAG0576.jpg
Both sides required a large cutout to clear the vent and drain
through hulls of the hard tanks and the vent fitting on the tank.
I think a loose piece of carpet over this will work to protect
the new sacs.I'll also be changing all the screw clamps near the
sacs to nylon clamps.
IMAG0579.jpg
The rear walls fit close enough to the hard tanks that they won't
flex much. I'll be adding vertical stiffeners to the side panels.

[majestic]

Coming along nicely MLS. Let me know when the testing begins

[lancehon]

Looking very nice! Now I'm almost regretting not doing that!

[skippabcool]

Looking good.

[NICKYPOO]

Way to go man. It's nice to see everyone taking these ballast installs a step further than just adding pumps and bags.

[lancehon]

Do you have to treat the edges where you cut with anything?

[mls6722]

Do you have to treat the edges where you cut with anything?

no, not at all. A wood blade in the table saw and jig saw worked well and the edges are nice and clean. This material holds staples and screws nicely.

[mls6722]

I had intended to place the batteries in the mid-ship storage on the port side. After some discussion and because I had the cooler out to route the battery cables, there has been a slight change in plans.
IMAG0593.jpgIMAG0595.jpg
the batteries will be placed in the former built in cooler location under the observers seat. They fit nicely and it is a better location than the mid-ship storage in the event of battery leakage.

I just completed my battery cables today and sized them for going all the way forward, so they are 2-3 feet longer than needed to get to this spot, but I believe I'll leave them as is for now with a bit of extra length.