Adding ballast to 2008 22Ve - mls6722

[NICKYPOO]

Nice. I've been waiting to see someone do that. Is that how they are going to sit or are they just sitting in there at the moment?

[skippabcool]

I had intended to place the batteries in the mid-ship storage on the port side. After some discussion and because I had the cooler out to route the battery cables, there has been a slight change in plans.
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the batteries will be placed in the former built in cooler location under the observers seat. They fit nicely and it is a better location than the mid-ship storage in the event of battery leakage.

I just completed my battery cables today and sized them for going all the way forward, so they are 2-3 feet longer than needed to get to this spot, but I believe I'll leave them as is for now with a bit of extra length.

That other thread was useful.

[mls6722]

Nice. I've been waiting to see someone do that. Is that how they are going to sit or are they just sitting in there at the moment?

I think they will sit about where they are. The terminals are easy to access at that angle. I will try to move them as close to the center line as possible while maintaining access.

[mls6722]

That other thread was useful.

It sure is.

[lancehon]

Very nice!

[mls6722]

I made some progress on the Ballast today, but not as much as I expected. I completed the fill pump thru hull fitting and ball valve install. The wiring for the relocated batteries is 90% complete. The relocated Taps bracket is installed and the TAPS is rewired.

I was also wondering if I need to provide any forced ventilation in the new battery compartment. There is a good size hole to the bilge and it is completely open along the side.


Here is a picture of the installed TAP bracket
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Here are the thru hulls drilled
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At this point, I was in a semi concerned state - take a look at the removed plugs. One is much thicker at one side than the other. I considered a wedge shaped spacer, but instead, I ground the surface inside adjacent to the hole to try to even out the thickness.
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With the outer surface of the hull not parallel to the inner lines of the bilge, the forward thru hull was laying over towards the V-drive more than my test fit. The ball valve would not clear that elbow on the V-drive cooler line. It looked like it needed 1/8 of an inch, I tried to dis-assemble the ball valve, but all I ended up doing was to break the valve. I also learned that the elbow does not come off the V-drive while it is installed in the boat. It bottoms out on the hull when rotated.

I found a lower profile valve that easily clears and I installed it. It is however a Brass body rather than Bronze.

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I hope that 5200 is good stuff - I don't ever want to mess with these fittings again.

[lancehon]

Looking good MLS! What pumps are you using for the customs?

[mls6722]

Looking good MLS! What pumps are you using for the customs?

I am using Rule 1100 aerators - They mount nicely vertically directly to the ball valve threads. I am leaving them out until I am done working in the area.

[IDBoating]

Suggestion: Stick a piece of duct/masking tape over the valves to keep them and their threads clean until you're ready to install the pumps. You'll have a lot of particulates floating about back there, no sense in letting that stuff gunk up your valves.

My hull thickness differed at my three intake thruhulls, but I didn't have an angle between the inner and outer hull surfaces. Thank goodness, that would have really bothered me.

Keep up the great work and keep us posted! We love the photos!

[mls6722]

An update - progress has been slow for a couple of weeks, but it is nearly finished.

Here is the battery compartment. Each battery can be removed without removing the other one. - There was a large 4 AWG + and - from the helm. Rather than running them forward from the old battery location, I took a shortcut through the floor over to the helm. I made sure this was good marine cable with the wire protector liner since I don't want any shorts by the gas tank. It seemed like a good idea to avoid adding 12 feet to the already long run from the battery to the helm. It goes in through the old cooler drain location and comes out under the helm with the steering cable.

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All that remains at the helm is to connect the two new switches when they arrive on Tuesday. Diodes are installed. I will be using the Docking Lights and ACC positions.

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After much consideration, the blower is relocated to the back side of the carpeted panel at the back of the engine compartment. a hose from the inlet side drops down between the ballast tanks to near the bottom of the bilge. It's hard to get a good picture, but it is well clear of all moving parts.

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Here is the Port thru hull. Plenty of room aft of the other two. The other side will be much tighter because, there is a bilge pump discharge line and a large wire harness. Also the walk through makes it a tighter space on that side as well. The boat finish looks much much better than it looks in these pictures .
Notice the side of the boat was as thick as the bottom.

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Here is a photo of the vent/drain line connection - see how much room under there.

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For the starboard pump, I routed the line forward and made a 180 degree turn to head into the compartment. Turning the pump another 90 degrees would have had the outlet tilted downward and made a bit of an air trap at the pump.

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I didn't take a picture, but I did install some of those special marine screw protectors.

[Wakeman22]

Looking very good. You are going to love it automated.

[skippabcool]

Looks good

[IDBoating]

Looks great. Your thruhulls look factory installed. Keep us updated!

[mls6722]

Received the switches and installed them. Thanks Skippabcool for the labels.

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good match with the factory switches below

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[majestic]

Looks great MLS #iwannaride