Thru hull fitting tightening

[geek]

Well, I started my ballast install this weekend. I got the electrical run and mounted the switches in the dash. I then decided it was time to put in my first thru hull.

I drilled, chamfered, put the sealant on the fitting and tightened it up. This was pretty late Friday night so I decided to call it a night and left it to let the sealant cure. This morning I headed out to install the ball valve. I started threading it on and the thru hull spun with it. That pissed me off so after swearing for about 20 minutes I took the thru hull fitting back off, cleaned it up and reinstalled it. This time I tightened on the ball valve before tightening the thru hull. But when tightening the thru hull, I had a buddy try to hold it in place while I tightened it up. I tightened until he could no longer hold it. It did eventually spin a little.

The question I have, how tight is good? I was afraid to overtighten it and hurt the fiberglass. Second, it is cold here, I used 3m 4000 Uv fast cure, I am heating my shop but its probably only about 40 degrees. Will I have curing problems?

[chpthril]

If it sat overnight and the fitting was able to turn may be an indication that the temp is greatly slowing the cure.

Its tough to get the jam-nut tight without a thru-hull wrench to hold fitting. Depending on what size fitting it is, you might find something to wedge in the fitting against the tits and hold it while you or someone tightens the nut.

[geek]

That's what we did. We used some pliers to hold it and tightened it the best we could. I am not sure how much leverage he had on it but I was wrenching on it pretty hard.

I am using this one thru hull to feed 2 pumps so I went ahead and assembled it and I am trying to keep it warm overnight tonight. Have you ever heard of 4000 not curing due to it being too cold? I am sure it will eventually cure. I can't find any information on a minimum temperature on it. I can post pics if anyone cares to see what we have so far.

[chpthril]

It should cure, but just gonna be slow at 40*

[Iwndr]

That's what we did. We used some pliers to hold it and tightened it the best we could. I am not sure how much leverage he had on it but I was wrenching on it pretty hard.

I am using this one thru hull to feed 2 pumps so I went ahead and assembled it and I am trying to keep it warm overnight tonight. Have you ever heard of 4000 not curing due to it being too cold? I am sure it will eventually cure. I can't find any information on a minimum temperature on it. I can post pics if anyone cares to see what we have so far.

Post them up we care

[skippabcool]

Post them up we care

x2

[geek]

Started a thread on my ballast install.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...771#post560771

[topaz surfer]

I'm just finishing up my ballast install myself. I had the same issue with a thru hull fitting spinning. What I found works is using the correct size chisle and insert it into the fitting on each side of the tabs that are inside the fitting and then you can put some vise grips on the chisle and have you buddy hold it while you tighten it.

[IDBoating]

I'm just finishing up my ballast install myself. I had the same issue with a thru hull fitting spinning. What I found works is using the correct size chisle and insert it into the fitting on each side of the tabs that are inside the fitting and then you can put some vise grips on the chisle and have you buddy hold it while you tighten it.

I did the same thing but used an open-end wrench of the appropriate size (that gives you the ability to pick exactly the correct size). The open end wrench engages the nibs inside the fitting, and a big crescent wrench turns the nut on the inside of the hull until it's nice and snug.

THEN... leave it alone until you're certain the sealant has cured before you attach the valve. Work on other aspects of the project to keep busy. A few extra days now, on your own schedule, can avoid unpleasantness during the boating season!

[chpthril]

THEN... leave it alone until you're certain the sealant has cured before you attach the valve

Actually, I prefer to attach the valve before fully securing the thru-hull's jam nut. This allows you yto orient the ball-valve's handle before the sealant sets if there are clearance issues.

If youve got a miles clearance around the setup, then no worries.

[IDBoating]

Actually, I prefer to attach the valve before fully securing the thru-hull's jam nut. This allows you yto orient the ball-valve's handle before the sealant sets if there are clearance issues. If youve got a miles clearance around the setup, then no worries.

I've found that it's always possible to squeak another 1-2 turns on NPT threads, beyond where they're fully fitted, particularly if you're using suitable thread compound ("pipe dope"). I learned this from the local natural gas utility when they sent out a guy to find a nagging little gas leak we had years ago. I thought I had those threads manly tight, and was worried about crushing the threads, but this guy gave them a gorilla tightening job and got another two full turns on them. I learned, and have never had a NPT thread problem since!

These days I go to what seems like "full tight", then at least 1/2 turn more, and THEN I tighten to preferred alignment. I consider that far preferable to the possibility of breaking a partially cured seal around a thruhull that is below the waterline. Just my opinion!