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Fat sac fill/drain rate research...

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    #16
    Yeah..probably not! Wonder if Fly High would make you some custom 1.5" fittings to fit those Rule 3800gph washdown pumps? That would make it interesting!

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      #17
      I have a bunch of fittings for 1.5 inch if anyone wants. I have reducers from the 1.5 to 1" as well that snap onto the rule 3800 and I have Y's that reduce the 1.5 to 2 1" fittings. Hit me up if anyone needs anything.
      Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

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        #18
        Should have clarified...would like to see 1.5" openings on the sacs themselves.

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          #19
          I asked flyhigh and they said no. Dual 1" doesn't seem to slow anything down for my system. Works great!!
          Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

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            #20
            Originally posted by duffymahoney View Post
            I asked flyhigh and they said no.
            Given the obvious desire throughout the industry to decrease fill/drain times, I'm surprised they haven't tooled up for at least one inch fittings.

            Duffy, you did exactly what I am testing right now - parallel smaller fittings instead of a single larger fitting. I definitely would have done it with those 1.5 inch pumps. Now I just wonder if there's enough to be gained with one inch pumps (or 1.125, grrr) going to a pair of 3/4 inch sac fittings. We'll soon know.

            Where did you get your Y's? I'm still seeking the thinnest wall fittings I can find.

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              #21
              http://pvcfittings.com . Don't buy anything. I think I have tons of stuff I would basically give away.
              Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

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                #22
                The issue is that Fly High doesn't actually make anything. They use off-the-shelf components from other industry's to do what we need. I'm not sure there's enough demand to pay for the tooling, especially since it would really only cater to those of us on the fringe.

                For the time being, multiple pumps, or high capacity pumps through multiple connections to the bag make the most sense.
                WakeMAKERS.com | WakePROPS.com

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                  #23
                  Big enough fitting you could you gate valves and scoupers to do a pump less system for bags. Now that would be sweet
                  Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by duffymahoney View Post
                    http://pvcfittings.com . Don't buy anything. I think I have tons of stuff I would basically give away.
                    I've spoken to those guys. They were always out of stock on everything I wanted at the time, so I finally gave up on them.

                    What I'd like to find is a source for poly fittings. Those are generally low pressure, which means thin walls.

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                      #25
                      Can a Wye really do that?

                      Sorry for the mini-hijack, but I think it is related...I was talking on another forum, and I saw a guy who installed a front bilge pump, and just tied it into the overflow from the center ballast tank. He used one of these:

                      http://www.wakemakers.com/wye-3-4-inch-fitting.html

                      Wakemakers says that you do not need a check valve as you won't get retrograde flow back into the other arm of the wye. Seems like if the outflow pump pressure were enough, that you would get backflow. Wakemakers says to use the Y to tie in overflow and dishcharge hoses from the same sack. I cannot help but think that there would be some recirculation, but does anyone else have any experience with these? I was anticipating using separate overflows, but might consider it if I can find one of these in a 1 inch version.
                      Be excellent to one another.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                        IMO, its easier to stretch 1.0 hose over a 1.125 barb, then it is to clamp 1.125 hose down on a 1.0 fitting.
                        On another note, my 'throw over the side of the boat' Attwood plastic outlet fitting broke, so I took off the hose and put a new fitting on. I have always hated how the clear plastic hose kinks so easily, and even with it just hanging over the side of the boat, I can increase flow by smoothing out the kinks. So I decided I would swap out the hose. But I could not get the hose over the fitting end that looks like this:



                        I tried heat, I tried soap, and nothing helped. I was nearly blistering my hands and I could not get it to go. It is the spiral ribbed hose like this:



                        Are you just going to tell me to put down my purse and take off my earrings, or is there something peculiar about the way I am doing it?
                        Be excellent to one another.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                          Wakemakers says that you do not need a check valve as you won't get retrograde flow back into the other arm of the wye. Seems like if the outflow pump pressure were enough, that you would get backflow.
                          You definitely would. Those Y's are sort of a ghetto way of getting the job done. Separate hoses and throughhulls work way better, but sometimes those aren't feasible.

                          I was anticipating using separate overflows, but might consider it if I can find one of these in a 1 inch version.
                          That's my problem - I can't find THAT kind of fitting in one inch. Everything in one inch has thicker walls that reduce the ID and, hence, the throughput. I'm hopeful the Rule fittings that ChpThril mentioned will make a difference, but they are 1.125 and not a pure 1.0 inch. We'll see.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                            I tried heat, I tried soap, and nothing helped. I was nearly blistering my hands and I could not get it to go. It is the spiral ribbed hose
                            Welcome to my world. Now you know why I think dark thoughts about that "inch and an eighth" jerk from days past.

                            My current approach, with that exact hose and very similar fitting: Coat the fitting with KY Jelly (because it's water soluble). Heat the hose end with a heat gun until it's soft. Insert a pair of strong-jawed pliers (like linesman's pliers) into the softened end and stretch the hose's diameter, rotating the pliers around so you stretch it evenly. Quickly press the hose onto the fitting with a clockwise rotation to take advantage of that heavy black spiral's tendency to act like threads and work it all the way onto the fitting. Let cool and visually inspect to confirm you didn't tear the weaker clear plastic in the hose. Install #12 stainless hose clamp. Done.

                            This really requires two people, one to hold and rotate the hose and the other to do everything else.

                            Report back!

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by WABoating View Post
                              Welcome to my world. Now you know why I think dark thoughts about that "inch and an eighth" jerk from days past.

                              My current approach, with that exact hose and very similar fitting: Coat the fitting with KY Jelly (because it's water soluble). Heat the hose end with a heat gun until it's soft. Insert a pair of strong-jawed pliers (like linesman's pliers) into the softened end and stretch the hose's diameter, rotating the pliers around so you stretch it evenly. Quickly press the hose onto the fitting with a clockwise rotation to take advantage of that heavy black spiral's tendency to act like threads and work it all the way onto the fitting. Let cool and visually inspect to confirm you didn't tear the weaker clear plastic in the hose. Install #12 stainless hose clamp. Done.

                              This really requires two people, one to hold and rotate the hose and the other to do everything else.

                              Report back!
                              So I should text the wife and ask her to buy some KY at the store today because I need it for a project I am working on...thanks!
                              Be excellent to one another.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                                So I should text the wife and ask her to buy some KY at the store today because I need it for a project I am working on...thanks!
                                Agreed, the joke possibilities are endless. I thought I should write the KY company and tell them I'd finally come up with a SECOND legitimate use for their product!

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