Ballast Puppy switch reversing

[NICKYPOO]

Admittedly, electrical is not my strong suit. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make a Ballast Puppy run in the opposite direction of the factory setting. I have already flipped the pump heads in order to make them work better with my plumbing plan but, I still need one to run the opposite direction of the other. Can I just switch the wires at the pump? Change the connections at the back of the switch? Install the switch upside-down and then just turn the switch face upside-down, making the switch, for all intensive purposes, run backwards?

[bigdaddy_houseboater]

Admittedly, electrical is not my strong suit. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make a Ballast Puppy run in the opposite direction of the factory setting. I have already flipped the pump heads in order to make them work better with my plumbing plan but, I still need one to run the opposite direction of the other. Can I just switch the wires at the pump? Change the connections at the back of the switch? Install the switch upside-down and then just turn the switch face upside-down, making the switch, for all intensive purposes, run backwards?

They are 12 volt DC, meaning if you switch the wires (black on red, red on black) the motor will run in the opposite direction. Check with Mike (ChpThrl) but Im sure thats how it works.

[NICKYPOO]

That's what I was thinking.

[chpthril]

If they dont flow in the desired direction after rotating the pump head, swap terminals 3 and 6 on the switch that go to the pump (ok, the actual numbers depend on which schematic you used).

[NICKYPOO]

Yup, that's the one. Thanks Mike.

[NICKYPOO]

Thanks Mike.

While we are talking switches. Can the outer mounting plate be removed? I'd like to remove it and mount the switch in the factory switch bank. I have two open ACC switches that I would like to swap out with these? Just can't quite tell if they mount up the same.

Along those same lines, is the power running to the existing switches going to be OK for the new switches and pumps?

[chpthril]

Thanks Mike.

While we are talking switches. Can the outer mounting plate be removed? I'd like to remove it and mount the switch in the factory switch bank. I have two open ACC switches that I would like to swap out with these? Just can't quite tell if they mount up the same.

Yes, those are the same basic Carling brand switch thats currently on your helm. If you look from the back, you will see some tabs on the top and bottom of the switch body that hold it into the bezel.

Along those same lines, is the power running to the existing switches going to be OK for the new switches and pumps?

Id say no, because its common for those switches to all be piggybacked. For your pumps, I would recommend running a new power and ground supply to those switches. Your batteries are just in front of the helm, right?

[NICKYPOO]

Nope. Batts are in the observer storage. It's a bitch getting power over there. That is unless I go all the way around the bow. Then its its just long.

I'll have to get back in there tonight to figure it all out. Should I be able to use the breakers for the existing switches?

[NICKYPOO]

So ya, switches are piggy-backed. Breakers are 20 amp. So, I'll run new power over to the batts. New power to breaker, breaker to switch, switch to pump. Correct?

Can the new grounds be run to the ground block under the dash or do they need to run back to the batts as well?

[chpthril]

Nope. Batts are in the observer storage. It's a bitch getting power over there. That is unless I go all the way around the bow. Then its its just long.

I'll have to get back in there tonight to figure it all out. Should I be able to use the breakers for the existing switches?

Go down the steering cable hole and then up the bilge vent hole in the port mid-ship storage. Coat hanger with a hook on the end to fish the wire out of the bilge.

So ya, switches are piggy-backed. Breakers are 20 amp. So, I'll run new power over to the batts. New power to breaker, breaker to switch, switch to pump. Correct?

Can the new grounds be run to the ground block under the dash or do they need to run back to the batts as well?

You're already running and B+, I'd just run a new GND along with it.

[NICKYPOO]

I've done the do to those holes before. It sucks. About a foot aft of those two holes, there is a small (6") hole through a bulkhead between the stringers. I call it the tunnel. With the amount of crap stuffed into the two holes in the floor, its impossible to manipulate the coat hanger from one to the other. The only way to make it happen is to run one hanger from the starboard hole through the tunnel and one from the port hole through the tunnel. I have to reach back up the through the engine bay, up under the floor to reach the tunnel about two feet fore of the engine bay. Thank god I have long arms. I went through this when I did the new stereo. It seems like it should be sooo easy. It is however the most PITA 18" inches on the planet. I'm doing a new steering cable at the same time so, I will have that as a pull through this time. I'm actually contemplating installing a deck plate in the floor, between the holes just to be done with. Just not sure I want to live with it once I'm done.

[chpthril]

It is however the most PITA 18" inches on the planet. .

I thought John Holmes had that title

[NICKYPOO]

I thought John Holmes had that title

I guess I'll have to name it the John Holmes hole.

Switches are done! Just need to loom the run to the pumps. I managed to buy the wrong size loom. I'll have to pick some up tomorrow. No biggy. Checked pumps. All is good. Still need to straighten out flow direction but that can be altered at the pump connection.

Thanks for the help TOs!

Next up, plumbing. After that, new fuel tank.

[NICKYPOO]

Pumps mounted.

[chpthril]

Looking good so far Are you gonna get those sacs in the weekend?